Jacket's manufacturing - Part 1
Saint Gregory
A new taste label: Neapolitan tailoring tradition re-invented according to renewed fashion suggestions.
Dear retailers, if you want to sell fully handmade garments you should deeply know all the procedure, art, quality, and culture that there is behind it. Our mission is to give some important information to our retailers on the entire procedure we follow to realize a fully handmade jacket. Having deep knowledge of the product helps you during the process of sales, this is the reason why we want to talk to you about the entire process of manufacturing of a jacket, that will be divided into 2 parts, please take a cup of the, sit down and give yourself the time to go across the entire article, refer to the next one to finish your reading.
When considering the entire fabric manufacturing process of a jacket there are different steps we would like to illustrate to our retailers:
-cut; -canvas; -edge tape; -pockets; back; -shoulders; -collar; -lapel; -sleeves.
There is no question about the relevance of the first step: the cut.
The process we follow is cutting the fabrics, when it turns to bespoke, from the geometric development of customer body measurements. This practice comes from the most ancient sartorial tradition, which considers the somatic characteristics of customers trying to correct all the imperfections and hide eventual defects.
When it turns to MTM, the cycle becomes more standardized, we use different adapted paper patterns that refer to international standard somatic characteristics, here in Saint Gregory we have 5 different fits.
Consider that the tailor always cut the fabric folded in double drawing half of the parts of the jacket, working always on the half in a specular way.
The instrument used is a particular pair of scissors, which are specially designed for cutting fabrics, sharp and accurate they will become the most used tool in the workshop. The blade is the most delicate part of the scissors, if you cut a paper you risk losing the cutting edge and the cut won’t be precise anymore.
CANVAS
Once the fabric has been cut we need to baste the fabric on the canvas, we use for all our garments full canvas, but before taking this step, our tailors baste the darts with the sewing thread using the needlepoint, they put the quarter on the canvas and they pad stitch it using cotton thinner than the one used for the stitching (the higher the yarn number is, the thinner the cotton used is, and it changes according to the fabric used, for more detailed information about the fabric’s yarn and thread please refer to the next article).
EDGE TAPE
Once the fabric is on the canvas they cut the canvas following the chalk signs and then they add the ribbon on the staystitch. Finally, they put a thick and solid canvas called “forzaglia”[1] to give rigidity to the lapel.
POCKETS
Following the particular shape of a “pignatta”[1] they cut the fabric.
● PATCHED POCKET
They cut the fabric using a model that changes according to the customer’s size, they leave 1 cm of fabric on the patch sides and 2.5 cm on the top, then they make a little fold and baste it. They add the ribbon on the top side of the pocket in order to let it stay straight, they add the pocket lining matched to the fabric color, and they double stitch it on the quarter.
● FLAPPED JETTED POCKET
In this case, they add the “forzaglia” under the pocket at the same height of the piping to give structure. Normally the flap measures 5.5 cm and the piping is 4.5 mm. The corner of the flap is always 1.5 cm. Then they add the pocket lining inside.
● TICKET POCKET
Our tailors mark the ticket pocket on the fabric, they add the forzaglia, then they make an internal fold following a special design called “barchetta[1]” by hand then they stitch it on the quarter and finally they insert the placket with the same fabric.
Do you want more details? Wait for the next article coming on the next week…Stay tuned!
TO BE CONTINUED…
For any info please feel free to contact us at the following addresses:
-Business inquiries Ennio Collaro Valente [email protected]
-Export sales Marialisa Pergolesi [email protected]
[1] Litteraly means “small boat”, this image is used in order to remember the shape of the ticket pocket.
[1] Pignata is an Italian word, also written pignatta and pignàta, meaning an earthenware cooking pot (see also pi?ata)
[1] Canvas interlining