Investing in the pub industry's future

The sumptuous interior of The Black Lion, Kilburn

There’s so much gloom and doom around right now, with the cost-of-living crisis creating an environment that has prompted many people to simply stay at home and crack open some cans of beer and cocktails rather than venturing outdoors for something more socially nourishing.

Against this backdrop, I’m so pleased to have made the journey across London recently for the reopening of The Black Lion pub in Kilburn after an impressive refurbishment under new owners, the independent operator London Village Inns. Any gloom within my orbit lifted immediately upon meeting the pub’s glorious interior as it shimmered from the sun streaming in through large windows running the full perimeter of the property.

Martin Harley, owner of London Village Inns, revealed he has committed a few hundred thousand pounds on what has been a major project. No corners have been cut, and the investment has not only brought a sparkle to the extensive wood paneling, bright gold-coloured murals and ornately decorated ceiling, but has also given an upgrade to a lot of the back of house functions that are invisible to the customer.

The four-month effort from Harley and his team of designers and builders has created the type of pub that really lifts the heart and more than justifies the effort to leave the house and spend your hard-earned money on drinks that cost somewhat more than those cans from the supermarket. It’s well worth it.

My visit to The Black Lion coincided with the release of a new batch of pub listings from Historic England that celebrates some of the finest pub interiors in the country – from the grandest of Victoriana right the way through to farmhouse basic – with each highlighting unique characteristics. It’s these elements that are thankfully being increasingly recognised and given some protection from developers.

In the list, I spotted the two highest awarded pubs, and I’m pleased to say I know them well and would highly recommend making serious detours to enjoy their impressive interiors. Whitelock’s Ale House in Leeds, which has moved from grade II to II*, was a key stop-off on my stag weekend many years ago. Every subsequent visit has been just as enjoyable as my first to this well preserved tucked-away gem. Also moving up a notch is The Prince Alfred in Maida Vale, west London, where Young’s has been a serious investor and custodian of this property that has unique wooden partitions separating the different elements of the pub.

But it’s not all about these listed gems, and the work of Harley and others in preserving historical interiors that need applauding. So too do all those operators that are putting money in different parts of the pub sector during these very difficult times. Some of them don’t really ever get much thanks for their efforts.

This week, JD Wetherspoon announced it is investing ￡2.4m in a new pub at Birmingham New Street station. The company gets constant stick for myriad reasons, but there is no questioning its commitment to creating new pubs that often involves resurrecting old buildings which nobody else will take on, and that are frequently eyesores on the high street.

Whitbread is also unlikely to be frequently held up for its efforts with its pubs and its Brewers Fayre brand, but it has just announced it is to open its first new site in five years. The sizeable 357-cover Willen Dragon in Milton Keynes will open in early July with a contemporary look and a strong family focus that will no doubt be a very welcome addition to that part of the country, and that highlights Whitbread’s continued commitment to pubs.

There is always a pub that suits every person’s specific preference, and it is thanks to progressive operators and their willingness to continue to invest serious money in the sector that enables things to evolve, and for venues to be presented that really do demand you put down those cans, get out of the house and celebrate the pub in all its glorious variations.

Glynn Davis, editor Beer Insider

This piece was originally published on Propel Info where Glynn Davis writes a regular Friday opinion piece. Beer Insider would like to thank Propel for allowing the reproduction of this column.