INNOVATION & TRENDS 2024: WHAT'S NEW THIS YEAR? - PART ONE: NATURE AT THE SERVICE OF INGREDIENTS

As in previous years, a large number of trade shows have already taken place, and many new products have been presented. This also gave us an insight into the trends and innovations to come.

In this first part, let's have a look at how Nature puts itself at the service of ingredients!

NATURALITY: WHAT'S NEW?

Naturality and the preservation of biodiversity are still very much in the spotlight this year. Alongside Upcycling and Green Biotech, more and more players are taking an interest in other types of agriculture.

Upcycling...

This year, upcycled coffee took center stage. Alongside Kaffe Bueno, which launched its first ingredient made from upcycled coffee in 2019 and won this year's "Rising Star" Award for new talent, Cabeco(i) (for "Cascade of Benefits of Coffee") focused its research on the properties of coffee grounds from freeze-dried coffee production. To exploit this resource sustainably (in Europe alone, two million tons of coffee grounds are produced every year), Cabeco has developed and patented an extraction process that extracts the active molecules from the grounds. According to the company, "this green, solvent-free process emits no CO2, creates no waste and enables coffee grounds to be 100% recycled". This process has been used to create two 100% natural cosmetic raw materials: Cofoil? (INCI: Coffea arabica seed oil), a lipophilic active ingredient that regenerates and repairs skin tissue, and Cofex? (INCI: Coffea arabica coffee fruit powder), an ultra-gentle exfoliating powder.

More on our doorstep, Herbarom(ii) , based in the Dr?me region of France, has established a local partnership with ChestNut, a company specializing in the valorization of raw materials from arboriculture. The result is three ingredients: apple blossom water, apricot blossom water and chestnut hydroglycerin extract.

...to Plant Cell Cultures...

Numerous players in the cosmetics industry were present at the In Cosmetics trade show in Paris last April to present their new ingredients derived from this biotechnology. Among them was a newcomer to the field: French cosmetic actives manufacturer Robertet(iii) joined forces with Italian company Aethera Biotech to present their first jointly developed ingredient: AQ3Rose CROP-G (INCI: Glycerin (and) Rosa Chinensis Callus Lysate), derived from Rosa chinensis. This patented biotechnological ingredient, rich in polysaccharides and phytocollagen, offers "unrivalled protection against premature skin ageing and deep hydration to rejuvenate and revitalize".

... Moving towards other forms of agriculture: vertical farming & regenerative agriculture

In a vertical farm, the environment is entirely controlled: crops are grown above ground, using hydroponic systems in which plants grow on substrates and are supplied with nutrients via water circulating in a closed circuit. Temperature, light, humidity and water supply are controlled and can be adjusted to enable plants to produce higher levels of phytochemicals than can be achieved under "normal" conditions. These optimized conditions also mean that 90% less water is used than in traditional cultivation, with a reduced footprint on the soil, since the whole point of Vertical Farming is to produce vertically, i.e. upwards!

Some cosmetics manufacturers have used this technology to obtain the raw materials from which their ingredients are made.

For example, Mibelle Biochemistry(iv) used sunflower sprouts grown in a vertical farm: after initiation of seed germination, the small sunflower sprouts are transferred to rotating containers that provide drainage, light, aeration and agitation. After a few days' incubation in the containers, the shoots are then ready to be harvested to produce RejuveNAD? (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua).

LipoTrue has launched a new range of ingredients, Fragments Remastered(v), made from vertically farmed wild plants.

Finally, International Cosmetics Science Centre(vi) A/S (ICSC) has launched natural active ingredients from its certified Precision Climate Farming site in Denmark to meet the growing demand for sustainable cosmetic ingredients. Among the ingredients presented by ICSC is Cosmosil? PCFM S Oil I.S. (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Sprout Extract (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil), which is a blend of broccoli microgreens, sunflower microgreens and centella asiatica extracts to nourish the skin.

Regenerative (or conservation) agriculture is a sustainable farming approach that aims to maximize yields while minimizing environmental impact and maintaining soil health. It is based on three pillars: permanent soil cover, no-till sowing and crop diversity and rotation.

For example, Expanscience(vii) , already highly committed to responsible supply chains with ethical practices, has proposed Ga?aline (INCI: Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil), a liposoluble active ingredient, rich in unsaponifiables derived from regenerative flaxseed oil (French and local from conservation agriculture). To achieve this, Expanscience has established a "hyper-local" partner to source its linseed oil: Huilerie de l'Orme Creux, run by Ludovic Joiris, who has been involved in conservation agriculture for over 20 years. Based in Corbreuse (Essonne, FR), this farm is just 32 km from Expanscience's production plant and R&D center.

DSM-Firmenich(viii) has also used regenerative agriculture to develop its new active ingredient Eterwell? Youth (INCI: Epilobium Fleischeri Leaf/Stem Extract). This is an extract of Epilobium fleischeri, a rare alpine plant growing on ancient glacial moraines. Harvested 3 times a year, this crop follows regenerative farming practices that are aligned with Union Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) regenerative agriculture, which goes beyond responsible sourcing and ethical practices to focus on improving soil restoration, purifying water, maintaining biodiversity and enhancing climate resilience.

To infinity small and beyond! Exploring new vegetal targets with Exosomes

Exosomes are tiny vesicles bounded by a lipid membrane and naturally secreted by cells. These vesicles contain DNA, RNA, lipids, proteins, cytokines, transcription factor receptors, heat shock proteins, enzymes, antioxidants and other bioactive compounds(ix) . Once secreted by cells, exosomes then transport these various compounds and genetic information throughout the body, creating communication pathways between cells.

Exosomes play an important role in many biological processes, including the immune response, intercellular communication, waste elimination and even pathological processes such as cancer. They can also serve as biomarkers for various diseases, as their composition often reflects conditions and changes in the cells from which they originate. Although research is still at a very early stage, this technology has potential therapeutic applications in regenerative medicine. But it's their remarkable ability to facilitate intercellular communication and enhance intracellular interactions that has sparked great interest in the world of skin care. According to market research firm Grand View Research, the global exosomes market for therapeutic and cosmetic use was valued at over $112 million in 2022 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 33% by 2030(x) .

Historically used in pharmaceuticals, exosomes have traditionally been derived from animal or human stem cells. The new generation of exosomes for cosmetics is of botanical origin, and design approaches differ from one player to another.

Active Concepts(xi) offers its new BioAuthentic Exosomes range, building on their previous liposome expertise developed through their Delivery Systems technology platform. They offer AC ExoVitalize (INCI: Water & Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract & Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract & Phospholipids), in which watermelon and grapefruit are mechanically ground, extracted with water, dispersed in phospholipids and homogenized to form exosomes. According to the company, the final active ingredient is "a BioAuthentic Exosomal delivery system that enhances the bioavailability of cellular energization processes to awaken skin cells".

For its part, Mibelle Biochemistry(xii) has shown that PhytoCellTec? Goji (INCI: Lycium Barbarum Callus Culture Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Water), while not containing exosomes, boosts exosome production and signaling by stimulating stem cells to produce more exosomes with collagen-stimulating messenger molecules enabling increased collagen and elastin production in fibroblasts. According to the company, "in vivo results show an improvement in wrinkle depth and skin density in photo-aged skin".

Other players are more interested in exosomes produced by vegetal stem cells.

This was the case of Vytrus Biotech(xiii), which presented its latest research into vegetal exosomes based on plant biotechnology, and also introduced the concept of "exosomal peptides". According to the company, these plant exosomes have the same structure as mammalian exosomes and can therefore penetrate human cells and transmit molecular information to them very efficiently. Thus, research developed by Vytrus on the active ingredient Capilia Longa? (INCI: Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract (and) Water (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Phytic Acid) has shown that it would contain a high concentration of exosomes, in the order of a billion, enabling very interesting applications in improving skin hydration and regeneration, as well as increasing hair density and delaying hair loss. The same applies to Centella Reversa? active ingredient (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract (and) Glycerin (and) Citric Acid), Centella asiatica cell cultures with a concentration of exosomes in the billion range. These natural exosomes have the capacity to encapsulate and protect molecules such as growth factors, proteins and peptides capable of activating the expression profiles of skin genes linked to ageing, skin barrier and hydration in keratinocytes (increased expression of collagen I, inhibition of elastase...). Thanks to their research, Vytrus has identified a huge diversity of plant peptides in the content of its natural plant exosomes. These Exosomal Peptides? constitute, according to the company, an enormous cocktail of natural plant peptides with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory or even anti-wrinkle activities.

For its part, Naolys(xiv) , also specialized in plant cell biotechnology, has developed a research project in partnership with the University of Bordeaux on the vast subject of exosomes.

DSM-Firmenich(xv) has taken a similar approach, announcing a collaboration with ExoLab Italia, a start-up specializing in exosomal technologies derived from Italian organic fruit and vegetables.

Nature to rethink Star Ingredients!

Several active ingredients used in cosmetics are considered hero ingredients. However, because they are of synthetic or animal origin, or because they are unstable or irritating, or because the regulations governing their use are still unclear, many plant-based or biotech alternatives are being proposed.

This is the case for Algaktiv? RetinART(xvi) (INCI: Water (Aqua) (and) Propanediol (and) Algae Oligosaccharides (and) Xanthophylls (and) Lactic Acid), an alternative ingredient to retinol of marine origin. Used at a 1% dose, it reduced melanin synthesis by 33%, which is far superior to pure retinol at 0.15% (9%) and bakuchiol at 1% (21%).

Similarly, Clariant offers CycloRetin(xvii), a prince ginseng extract rich in heterophyllin B, which generates similar, but gentler benefits than conventional retinol. According to Clariant, CycloRetin enhances the production of the skin matrix, improving collagen and reducing the signs of aging.

Finally, Silybidiol? (INCI: Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract) is presented by Givaudan Active Beauty as an alternative to the iconic CBD molecule (cannabidiol). Designed to combat the harmful effects of urban photo-pollution and promote skin health, Silybidiol? is extracted from milk thistle fruit by "green fractionation". It offers a new holistic approach to aging, building on the emerging concept of OxInflammation, the vicious circle linking oxidative stress and inflammation. Silybidiol? binds to cannabinoid receptors in the skin and activates cellular crosstalk leading to the activation of skin defenses and detoxification pathways to effectively maintain OxInflammation balance and promote well-being.

AND OUR IMPACT ON THE CLIMATE?

EcoLution: Green Chemistry & Environmental Impacts

Consumers are increasingly attentive to how companies support green initiatives, and the cosmetics industry is no exception. A recent publication by Mondello's team(xviii) highlights the progress made by the cosmetics industry in integrating the principles of the circular economy. Faced with growing environmental, economic and societal concerns, cosmetics companies must find lasting solutions for sustainable development. To this end, they continue to use eco-extraction processes, and no longer hesitate to communicate on the energy balance of these applications.

So, when designing Phytessence? Osmanthus (INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Osmanthus Fragrans Flower Extract), Croda(xix) chose Eco-Sound technology because, although carried out at room temperature and during a reduced processing time, this technology offers better results (in terms of actenosides extracted) than other methods (microwave, decoction and digestion). According to Croda, "this innovative ultrasonic method emits 16 times less CO2 per kilo of osmanthus extract than decoction and digestion".

The same applies to Eterwell? Youth from DSM-Firmenich(xv). The implementation of a transparent, traceable, Fairtrade-certified supply chain and the use of a gentle extraction process enable this ingredient to have a low carbon footprint throughout its creation process (less than 3 kg CO2eq/kg, cradle-to-gate).

Finally, Givaudan uses a life cycle assessment approach to evaluate the impact of its processes on the environment, biodiversity, human health and resources. This work was carried out on the active ingredient PrimalHyal 50 Life(xx) (low molecular weight hyaluronic acid - INCI: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid). The optimization of its production process enabled a reduction of over 90% in the impact on climate change, acidification, eutrophication and the use of fossil energy resources. Ecotoxicity, meanwhile, has been reduced by almost 80%, and water use by 75%.

Geo-Skin Care & Climate-adaptative Wellness

The increase in extreme weather conditions, which entail considerable physical and mental risks, is driving consumers to seek out Personal Care products designed for seasonal variations and a changing environment: "climate-adapted wellness" such as "geo-care"(xxi). Consumers, increasingly aware of the effects of climate and external aggressions on the skin, are now demanding products adapted to specific climatic or geographical conditions.

Croda has launched Phytessence? Osmanthus(xix), a geo-skin care ingredient which, according to the company, "combats climate change-related problems such as heat, pollutants and extreme weather conditions". This active ingredient protects the skin against the harmful effects of UV rays by boosting the skin's defense mechanisms against heat by increasing the release of HSP70 (Heat Shock Proteins). These "stress proteins" help other proteins to maintain or return to their native conformation, contributing to the survival and longevity of skin cells.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics goes one step further with Compas Sense(xxii), five new formulas designed for specific local climates: tropical, arid, oceanic, Mediterranean and polar. Each of these formulas has been subjected to robust stability tests under extreme conditions.

That's the end of part one, in which we looked at Nature as a source of inspiration and how cosmetics companies use it to create their ingredients - while preserving it at the same time.

In the second part, we'll look at how Nature serves the skin...

Fréderique PORTOLAN

Bibliographic References :

i Gallon V., "Cabeco mise sur le surcyclage du marc de café avec deux actifs cosmétiques", Premium Beauty News, April 2024;https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/fr/cabeco-mise-sur-le-surcyclage-du,23684

ii "Herbarom to Showcase Formulations with Antioxidant Benefits at in-cosmetics Global", Cosmetics & Toiletries, April 2024;https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/news/event-coverage/news/22893154/herbarom-herbarom-to-present-three-sustainably-sourced-ingredients-with-skin-and-antioxidant-benefits-at-incosmetics-global

iii Doolan K., "'Augmented Naturality': Robertet partners with Aethera Biotech to "increase the value of the plant world"", Cosmetics Design Europe, April 2024; https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2024/04/04/robertet-partners-with-aethera-biotech

iv "RejuveNAD naturally boosts NAD+ for skin longevity", Cosmetics Business, Nov. 2023; https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/rejuvenad-naturally-boosts-nad-for-skin-longevity

v "LipoTrue to Expand Technology Portfolio with AI Obtained Ingredient for Acne Care at in-cosmetics Global", Cosmetics & Toiletries, April 2024;

https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-ingredients/actives/news/22892948/lipotrue-lipotrue-to-present-ai-obtained-ingredient-for-acne-care-at-incosmetics-global

vi "Sustainable Actives from ICSC's Certified Precision Climate Farming", Cosmetics & Toiletries, April 2024;https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-ingredients/natural-sustainable/article/22891604/icsc-international-cosmetic-science-centre-sustainable-actives-from-icscs-certified-precision-climate-farming

vii Milet K., ??Expanscience lance Ga?aline pour régénérer la peau… et les sols !??, Premium Beauty News, May 2024 ;https://www.premiumbeautynews.com/fr/expanscience-lance-gaialine-pour,23840

viii "Senolytic science: plant extract for well-ageing", Personal Care Magazine, April 2024;https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/44441/senolytic-science-plant-extract-for-well-ageing#:~:text=DSM%2DFirmenich%20reveals%20the%20findings,'%20cells%20%2D%20from%20the%20skin.&text=Senescence%20cells%20are%20seen%20as%20fundamental%20drivers%20of%20tissue%20ageing.

ix Tienda-Vázquez, M.A.; Hanel, J.M.; Márquez-Arteaga, E.M.; Salgado-álvarez, A.P.; Scheckhuber, C.Q.; Alanis-Gómez, J.R.; Espinoza-Silva, J.I.; Ramos-Kuri, M.; Hernández-Rosas, F.; Melchor-Martínez, E. M.; et al.M.; et al. "Exosomes: A Promising Strategy for Repair, Regeneration and Treatment of Skin Disorders", Cells, (2023), 12, 1625; https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10296902/

x "Exosomes Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report By Product & Service (Kits & Reagents, Instruments), By Workflow (Isolation Methods, Downstream Analysis), By Application, By End-use, By Region, And Segment Forecasts, 2024 - 2030", Grand View Research ;https://www.grandviewresearch.com/industry-analysis/exosomes-market

xi "Discover our Groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes", Active Concepts website; https://activeconceptsllc.com/newsevents/discover-our-groundbreaking-bioauthentic-exosomes/

xii "Trending: Exosomes", Mibelle Biochemistry website ;

https://mibellebiochemistry.com/trending-exosomes

xiii ??Des exosomes végétaux pour les soins de la peau et des cheveux??, Cosmetic Industries, May 2024; https://www.industries-cosmetiques.fr/des-exosomes-vegetaux-pour-les-soins-de-la-peau-et-des-cheveux/

xiv "Exosomes: Passing Trend or Transformative Reality?", Cosmetics Business, Feb. 2024; https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/exosomes-passing-trend-or-transformative-reality

xv Albrizio L., "DSM-Firmenich Partners with ExoLab Italia To Develop Plant- Derived Exosome Technology in Personal Care Market,"happi, April 2024; https://www.happi.com/breaking-news/dsm-firmenich-partners-with-exolab-italia-to-devel/

xvi "Algaktiv sets new standards in skin care with new groundbreaking ALGAKTIV RetinART Results", Cosmetics Business, March 2024;https://cosmeticsbusiness.com/algaktiv-sets-new-standards-in-skin-care-with

xvii "Clariant's CycloRetin Taps Cyclic Peptides for a Retinol and Bakuchiol Alternative," Global Cosmetic Industry, March 2024;https://www.gcimagazine.com/ingredients/skin-care/news/22891776/clariants-cycloretin-taps-cyclic-peptides-for-a-retinol-and-bakuchiol-alternative

xviii Mondello A., Salomone R, Modello G., "Exploring circular economy in the cosmetic industry: Insights from a literature review", Env. Impact Assessment Review, (2024), 105, 107443; https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0195925524000301?via%3Dihub

xix "Phytessence? Osmanthus, the first geo-skincare botanical extract by Croda Beauty," Cosmetic Industries, May 2024;https://www.industries-cosmetiques.fr/en/phytessence-osmanthus-the-first-geo-skincare-botanical-extract-by-croda-beauty/

xx "Givaudan unveils circular beauty innovations, and researchers upcycle prickly pear into sun-protecting body lotion," Personal Care Insights, March 2024; https://www.personalcareinsights.com/news/givaudan-unveils-circular-beauty-innovations-and-researchers-upcycle-prickly-pear-into-sun-protecting-body-lotion.html

xxi "Trends Shaping The Global Wellness Market", happi, March 2024;https://happi.texterity.com/happi/march_2024/MobilePagedReplica.action?pm=2&folio=10#pg11

xxii "Compas sense", Lucas Meyer Cosmetics website;

https://www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com/fr/our-showroom/compassense