Innovating With What Works

This article appears in the March/April 2018 issue of The Retail Jeweler, by Olga Gonzalez, view the original article online here.

Leading up to the Tucson Gem Shows was a buzz, after 2017 felt an industry uptick again. The year before had many worried about elections and the economy. Now, we are settled into a “new normal,” as buyers, dealers, and designers descend upon the desert festivities with their sparkly wares.

The overall sentiment was positive, from Scottsdale to Tucson. For the first time in years, several vendors nearly sold out of their merchandise halfway through the shows. Some wished they had brought more stones or pieces of jewelry, especially those that hit the mark for where the market was going. Buyers had money to buy for an adapting audience, attendance was up, and vendors brought out new designs. What changed?

The ongoing discussions regarding what is working, and what isn’t, is changing things. There is recognition and an understanding that the next generation buying fine jewelry wants beautiful, unique, pieces that are personal and tell a story. Yet, there are challenges. A millennial’s dispensable income isn’t as high, due to student loans, and wages are not increasing as much as inflation etc. Also, they value experience, which competes for where they spend their dollars (though many retailers, smartly, have worked on creating experiential luxury retail). Baby boomers value family and tradition, with classic stones and designs that reflect timeless luxury. Vendors at the shows defined their market, and provided merchandise to appease two very different customers bases…and they did it well. 

Merchandise the Statement to sell the Affordable

An excellent adaptation of appealing to both demographics is the altering of a statement piece. Last year, K. Mita Design launched their Shoreline cuff, which was met with much enthusiasm, but customers noted they wished it was a bit more affordable, and slightly smaller, so it would be easier to sell in stores. At this year’s JCK Tucson show, they debuted the Shoreline’s medi design, to give the same elegant look. Keiko Mita, Owner and Designer, says, ”When people looked at my gold jewelry, they favor 14K over 18K. From our perspective, the general takeaway was they want well-priced designer pieces but aren’t willing to take the leap and purchase something expensive. We recognized this trend from earlier shows (retail and wholesale) and consequently made several smaller, less expensive versions of popular pieces.”

Similarly, Allie Patel, Account Manager at Gregg Ruth, exhibiting at Centurion, discusses a sapphire earring they adapted to fit the needs of varied price points, explaining ”(the earring) is from our important color collection, which retails for close to 20K. We utilized some of our innovative setting techniques, and got the proportion just right, so we've been able to make a similar earring for a little bit less than half the cost. The overall size of the earring is the same, we just play with proportions ever so slightly....(On the second earring) we utilize a proprietary tiered halo technique that provides extra brilliance where there would be shadows, so there is no hint of a grey shadow, just lots of brilliance, along with extremely rich saturated gemstones. With these minor changes, we are able to offer luxury goods for a fraction of the price.”

Carbon Fiber Enters Luxury 

As the line of what constitutes luxury evolves, so do materials used and complemented. In men’s jewelry, rose gold is being combined with carbon fiber and steel, to create sophisticated looks. Claire Easley, CEO of Carbon 6 says, “Forged Carbon's dark tone and stone-like feel is a beautiful contrast to the brilliance of gold. People love not only the visual contrast but also the combination of the timelessness of gold combined with a cutting-edge luxury material. It makes for an exciting combination." Carbon 6 introduced gold on the inside of their most popular forged carbon fiber and Damascus steel ring styles at JCK Tucson, which retailers picked up for alternative wedding band looks in store.

INOX, alternatively, introduced a collection featuring rose gold, stainless steel, and carbon fiber in handsome bracelets. “Solid Carbon Fiber and Carbon Graphite composites are the materials of the future,” says Brand Manager, Sebastian Velasquez, “As a man, you quickly recognize the durability and high-tech aspect of a bracelet featuring the material, since it is prominently used in the highest grade of performance car parts and Bikes, sunglasses, and even golf clubs.” On the rose color in men’s jewelry, he adds,” The color rose has always been present in the jewelry design, although reserved mostly for the female market. Yet with the prominence of the color in everyday accessories like smartphones and headphones, it has become more neutral and acceptable for men to rock the color. Our Brose Gold, (Bro's Gold, Rose for Bros) pieces use Rose as the accentuating color rather than the base and is finished either brushed or matte, for a rugged, manlier look.”

She’s a Boss Jewelry

She makes her own money and she likes to buy herself something nice for a job well done. Yes…she’s a boss, and she is a fabulous jewelry buying customer. What does she want? She wants something versatile, day-to-night, classy, yet with a touch of personality. The gem shows had so much to offer her.

The Alchemy Collection by Jade Trau is the first designer branded collection by Forevermark, and it is perfection. Jade Trau says of its inspiration, “I spent time around women buying jewelry with their daughters, and saw the daughters were not connected to the jewelry. The Alchemy collection, which represents the process of transformation, was designed to make them feel connected. The designs are classic, and a bit edgy, without being too edgy.” Indeed, Trau has designed jewelry that is both timeless and exciting, a duality that is hard to master. Embracing individual qualities, each diamond cut represents an archetype. According to literature distributed at Centurian, the emerald cut represents The Vanguard, “a woman who is bold, determined, and genuine. The Maverick is represented by the marquise for the woman who is adventurous, independent and spirited. The pear-shape series has been named The Envoy, which is meant to embody someone who is compassionate, creative and intuitive. The Sophisticate, the woman who is classic, gracious and loyal is represented by the round.”

Delightfully, and also empowering, the jewelry made by Julie Genet Joaillerie has an underlying connection. No matter how abstract, there is always some connection to fairytales, princesses and a happy ending in each collection. Her Frog Prince ring rocks the world of every woman. It is a reminder that to find a prince, one has to kiss a lot of frogs. Try luck in love with her Vegas series, featuring micro dog tags with song lyrics, and bands that are perfect for putting a ring on it after saying “I do” at Elvis’ wedding chapel. It is truly made for the woman who likes to be equally stylish and punny with the jewels she spoils herself with.

Lastly, but certainly not least, there were designs that were both chic and practical, perfect for all day, everyday wear. W.Britt’s double wrap toggle can be worn many different ways—as a choker, lariat, multi-wrap necklace, and styled endlessly. Jordana Adrienne’s reversible chevron bracelet is two-sided, for a variety of looks. Jordana says, “More people are looking for something that is unique and which has a purpose. The element of purpose can be a look, a feeling, a sentiment, or a value of wearability. For some, the purpose of a piece can emerge from its expression during occasions that are bound in time and come to an end; but for others, its purpose is derived from longstanding wearability throughout generations.”

The 2018 gem shows in Arizona beautifully expressed the shifting tide in design. Jewelry was adapted to fit the needs of what buyers and consumers are looking for today, while maintaining the high design aesthetic. The worries around adaptation for a changing market are noticeably dissipating, while optimism cultivates.