India's culinary entrepreneurs

What, where, and how we eat reveals a great deal about us as individuals and as a society.

I love to eat, and I often struggle with restraint and discipline. As I age, the consequences of this are becoming more evident. However, the positive aspect of this “character flaw” is that I am always on the lookout for great places to eat. As a result, I have learned a lot about the vibrant restaurant scene in India.

My culinary journey is not only enjoyable but also professionally beneficial, as it provides valuable insights into India’s economy and society.

The restaurant industry serves as a reflection of the broader economy. It not only illustrates consumer behavior and the economic health of a country, but it also captures various cultural and social trends, such as innovation and entrepreneurship.

Culinary innovation is reshaping taste preferences. It tells a story of changing identities and a willingness to take risks. I would even argue that a vibrant culinary scene is essential for a thriving start-up ecosystem.

Moreover, new restaurants are often indicators of urban transformation. Frequently, they are the first signs of neighborhoods experiencing change and gentrification.?

Indian food is fantastic, and India is home to one of the world's great cuisines. Some personal favorites include Biryani, Momos from the north, seafood dishes like Hyderabadi Pomfret and Kingfish Rava, Chin-India, Pani Puri, Poha, and Dosa. The diversity found in Indian cuisine reflects the rich variety of the sub-continent itself.

In recent years, we have seen the exciting emergence of local culinary trendsetters. Notable establishments in Mumbai include Masala Library, Bombay Canteen, Americano, and Ekaa. These restaurants are either presenting modern interpretations of traditional Indian food or offering unique Indian takes on European cuisine. The results of these culinary experiments are simply scrumptious.

Americano and Eeka are my favorite restaurants in Mumbai. I am not dismissing the vibrant food scene in Bandra! Once Linking Road is more accessible, I plan to dine there more frequently.

Both Americano and Eeka embody the revival of South Bombay. Alex Sanchez and Mallyeka Watsa have transformed Americano into a world-class restaurant that seamlessly combines an inviting atmosphere, delicious food, and impressive design.

Americano signals the revival of Kala Ghoda and contributes to a broader renaissance in the area. Chef Niyati Rao is both an artist and an entrepreneur. She has crafted her version of Mumbai’s Noma with Eeka, and alongside her partners, has played a significant role in the exciting revitalization of Fort.

Goa’s vibrant Fontainhas neighborhood in Panjim is actively reclaiming its past glory. Eateries like Praca Prazeres play a central role in this effort, while Café Mo's serves as another significant landmark. One property at a time.

In Coimbatore, Chettinad Canteen is modernizing traditional cuisine with a refreshing twist. This culinary revolution is not limited to the major metros; Tier Two cities in India are experiencing it as well.

A knowledgeable friend, who closely follows Indian social trends, points out that this movement is also being recognized and celebrated in rural India. He draws my attention to popular YouTube channels that showcase rural cooking. The most famous of these is the Village Cooking Channel. This channel has over 27 million followers.

I recently dined at Navu Project in Bangalore and brought along a global venture capitalist who was visiting India for the first time. The meal truly impressed them and played a significant role in showcasing India.

I also invited a local friend who works in Indiranagar. This area, particularly 12th Main Road, is well-known for its vibrant array of bars, cafes, and restaurants. However, my friend was perplexed when I mentioned Navu Kitchen’s location in Domlur. He called me twice to confirm that the address was correct, as it seemed unusual for such an establishment to exist south of 4th Main Road.

Like many of India's celebrated culinary startups, the food at Navu was exceptional. Pallavi Mithika Menon and Kanika Sharma, completely transformed my western dining experience. Dishes such as the Mushroom Parfait, Halloumi Salad, Sweet Potato, and Cauliflower Crème Br?lé were simply outstanding. If you closed your eyes, it was easy to imagine you were in Berlin or Tel Aviv. The only downside was that there were no alcoholic drinks.

These restaurants are startups. Much like startup founders, the owners take risks — professional, personal and culinary. Their efforts tell the story of a new and self-confident India. An India that wants to excel. Experimenting with food is a way of exploring one's identity and it requires a sense of willingness and self-confidence.

The economy has reached a turning point that supports these culinary entrepreneurs. Like many success stories in India, the culinary revolution is a grassroots movement. There are no Production-Linked Incentive (PLI) schemes, no grand declarations from the government, and there is no Ministry of Taste Buds.

Ordinary individuals are quietly building a culinary industry that reflects India’s economic transformation. These efforts create jobs, give people skills and inspire dreams. As the economy grows, it will uplift many culinary ventures, and it is only a matter of time before India becomes a must-visit culinary destination. The country has a rich culinary tradition, a diverse array of regional cuisines, and the creative and confident talent necessary to become a food lover's paradise.