HOW WE DESIGN A SUIT FOR YOUR BODY TYPE
Tim Beasley
Menswear Design & Tailoring / E-commerce & Retail of Luxury Goods / Mass Production of Textiles / Non Profit Organization
Looking and feeling great in your clothing has nothing to do with fashion trends, and everything to do with understanding your body type.
So far at Gent Row we have clients that range from young kids at ages 2 years old to athletes at 7’1″ 350lbs. Every body shape is unique and poses its own tailoring challenges, which is precisely the reason we created our exclusive bespoke fitting process.
In this article are some general advice with style & silhouettes to flatter your physique, and some other things we keep in mind when cutting garments for Gent Row gents.
Enjoy! - TB
TALL & LEAN BODY TYPES
Chris Bosh NBA Power Forward (6’11 235lbs) wearing a monochrome plaid jacket, white shirt and light gray trousers
- Avoid pinstripes but don’t be afraid of a check or a glenplaid fabric. Patterns will add girth, as will lighter colors like.
- Consider a double-breasted jacket, it’s the best option to effectively widen your frame.
- Don’t go too slim, a little room will add some necessary drape and balance out your proportions.
- Go with a medium to slight break and cuffs on your trousers to break up your linear physique.
- I usually recommend a notch lapel over a peak, although what’s more important there is the formality of the fabric and garment.
- Keep the pockets straight, not slanted, and use a ticket pocket to fill some empty space.
- A longer jacket can be slimming, a shorter jacket can be lengthening…shoot for the middle ground, just covering the seat.
- Use horizontal accents like a belt (trousers with belt loops), folded pocket square and tie bar to add some east-west visual cues.
- A slightly higher button stance can offset your length, consider a 3/2 roll for flexibility.
- Go three-piece! The vest is your best friend as it can add some heft and give you plenty of layering options.
- Point shirt collars are a better choice than spread or cutaway.