How to navigate through fashion, an industry notoriously known for gatekeepers

This was a topic I thought would be good to share after a mentoring session with a group of graduates earlier this year. Let’s be honest; this can be a sensitive topic; seeing the words fashion and gatekeepers in the same sentence can cause one to raise their eyebrows and wonder, what on earth is she about to say... But I can reassure you; there is nothing to worry about; no ranting here, just thoughts and advice. I'm sure you'll enjoy reading this!

Let’s start by demystifying the term 'gatekeepers'

Here are 2 definitions from Merriam Webster and the Cambridge Dictionary

• A person who controls access - Merriam Webster Dictionary
• Someone who has the power to decide?who gets?particular resources and opportunities, and who does not - Cambridge Dictionary

I read an article on gatekeepers a while back, so I thought it would be interesting to share a quote from the piece.

Fashion’s gatekeepers — a top tier of editors, photographers, stylists and buyers, mostly white, European men — once decided which designers and which trends would dictate a season. Those labels and silhouettes would filter down from the runway to the pages of magazines, the wardrobes of celebrities and the sales floors of department stores. They controlled the distribution not only of products but also information. (Source: BOF)

So, in a nutshell, it's a group of people who typically control the movements of the industry and control information.

So how does one operate in a space with gatekeepers?

Firstly you need to understand the fashion industry and how it operates in different continents and regions, along with how each market level and sub-industries differ (for one, the fashion education industry operates differently from the fashion retail industry). Following this, you must consider various aspects such as cultures, traditions and beliefs, as well as uncontrollable macroeconomic factors; these all impact how the fashion industry operates. In addition to this, you must understand power, status and hierarchies.

Now some would argue that gatekeepers control the entire fashion industry. However, I beg to differ. It depends on what fashion industry sector you are referring to. Some areas of the industry are too niche to have gatekeepers or are still in their infancy to be controlled by specific individuals.

One of the main reasons why it’s possible to navigate an industry with many gatekeepers, such as fashion, comes down to a critical factor, unlike other sectors, such as finance or law. The fashion industry isn’t regulated! Finance and law are sectors which require you to take specific tests and have essential qualifications to practice. Fashion is an industry where you don’t require a degree to make it. Therefore with the relevant resources, guidance, knowledge and skills, it is possible to build a career without feeling restricted by individuals.

Fashion is an ever-evolving industry. With technological advancements accelerated by the internet this has also impacted how things operate. The rise of the blogosphere in the mid 2000s saw a shift in those being invited to sit front row of fashion shows amongst the elite. We’ve seen platforms such as Instagram birth a new era of influential figures for whom some have had no experience in fashion whatsoever. Now we’re witnessing TikTok and how rapidly the platform accelerates careers and creates collaborative opportunities that one may not have considered or thought possible.?

Through this all amid change, some names have remained relevant and will continue to do so. It’s essential to note that there will always be gatekeepers, but you should remember that power has and can indeed shift.?

Now let’s talk about 3 practical ways to navigate around it.

1. Be strategic with whom you network with

Be open when networking. Make a conscious effort to prevent yourself from being fixated on just a handful of people because their titles and the companies they work for seem appealing. You need to understand why you’re networking with people, the aim of gaining that connection, how they will benefit your career and how you can help theirs. It would be best if you also did your homework to understand the hierarchies in companies to see what influence one may genuinely have.?

One thing I’ve learned from experience is that there are many knowledgeable, powerful and well-connected people in the fashion industry who are not involved with gatekeepers and high-status circles yet hold senior positions, run successful businesses and are incredibly welcoming.?

2. Join your own or create your own community

This is honestly easy to achieve, especially if you're not shy! The fashion industry is global, and access to the internet makes it even easier to make connections. It’s essential to have diverse voices represented in the industry to create a more responsible and fair one.?Start a group online, you can also start an in-person group a great example of a global community that was created by two colleagues is FashMash by Rosanna Falconer and Rachel Arthur .

3. Do your homework and keep informed

Going back to point 1, I mentioned doing your homework. To work in this industry, you must study it continuously, as it is ever-evolving. Sign up for newsletters and check platforms such as Fashion Monitor and the Business of Fashion to find out who has joined a company or left. Figure out what businesses have been performing well, emerging markets to look out for and events to attend for networking and learning purposes.?

Bonus tip: Work hard, know your stuff and have something to offer?

Put in the work to make it easier for people to know your worth. This is a point I want you to remember. Let your work speak for yourself. There is so much noise in this industry; stand out and show you are valuable.??

I hope you've found this helpful! Do not be discouraged. Take time to focus and position yourself in the right way. Do share with me any success stories that have come from this!

Until the next edition!