How (Not) To Launch a Running Shoe.
Last week, lululemon announced their launch of men's footwear, including a new performance running shoe, Beyondfeel.
On the same day, Tracksmith introduced a soon to be revealed "Super Shoe" performance running model, The Eliot Racer.
While timing was likely a coincidence, the contrasts in execution could not be greater.
If performance is anything, it's the combination of storytelling and authenticity. Lululemon it seems has a problem with both.
Lululemon introduced women's footwear in 2022 and it seems has learned little. The shoes were basic in design and materials, and hardly branded. The "women's first" fit story seemed contrived, unoriginal and not supported by design or features. The "performance running" shoe was heavy, simple, and offered the materials and construction of a 10 year old Nike or Payless knockoff.? Online reviews of the running shoes (for running!) are not good.
At the Tokyo Olympics Lulu sponsored 2/3 of the Canadian Women's Marathon runners and yet none of them wore Lululemon.
With men's performance footwear, it doesn't seem Lululemon has learned anything.
The story here is "men's specific fit, using a men's last", which is exactly what every shoe does. The design is almost the exact same as the women's save for minor changes. The shoes are "designed for running" but don't seem to offer anything new. What's the opposite of "shrink it and pink it?".. "Grow it and grey it"?
Lululemon athlete Ben Preisner just ran the second fastest Canadian marathon EVER over the weekend. He wasn't wearing Lululemon shoes.
Not only do I think Lululemon has yet to design an attractive, performance oriented running shoe, but I think they have challenges in marketing and distribution. Guys don't want to buy running shoes that are the same as their girlfriend from a traditionally women's brand. They don't sell where runners are at run specialty. The cost of DTC (shipping/returns) is expensive for a product you need to fit perfectly and some of Lulu's own retail can't support the space for footwear sales (shoe wall, try on benches, stock, etc.). The Lululemon store at the best mall in Canada (Yorkdale) doesn't sell their footwear.
On the flip-side, the Tracksmith launch near perfectly captured the brand's values, weaving a unique narrative into an authentic show of results.
Tracksmith prides itself on "aim(ing) to celebrate, support and add to running’s distinct culture". The Eliot Racer does just that.
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The first Tracksmith shoe, the Eliot trainer was introduced in 2022. It was 100% Tracksmith. Understated visually, yet used high performance PEBA foam to deliver capable every day running performance. The Eliot Trainer was an OK shoe (comparable to a Nike Pegasus was the consensus), but didn't really give a compelling reason to buy.
In introducing the Eliot Racer, it seems that Tracksmith not only learned from their mistakes but doubled down on their "Amateur" story. The Eliot Racer is designed with a modular drop-in insole- one for training, one for racing.
The idea perfectly syncs with what runners want:? familiarity and trust in training but that "new race shoe feeling" on race day.
If there's one thing amateur runners need it's more value in shoes as they burn through pairs racking up the miles. As a unique approach to super shoe construction the modular system easily differentiates itself from other super shoes and the press release quotes the "highest energy return of any shoe tested in the lab." A good answer to "why should I buy this vs. others" question.
At the US Olympic Marathon Trials over the weekend, countless athletes in the Tracksmith ASP program raced in the prototype shoe, proving performance.
Tracksmith has technical challenges to face making competitive high performance footwear (I can help!). But they clearly understand their customer and crafting a story that supports their needs. While they are mostly a DTC brand, they also have key retail partners in some of the best run specialty shops to gain traction and athletes that evangelize, test and prove the products.
I haven't run in either of the shoes. I am optimistically skeptical of both until I do.
But in terms of compelling design, storytelling and launch?
Tracksmith 1, Lululemon 0.
I'm the owner of The Directive Collective footwear design studio. We make great footwear, not just sketches of footwear.
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1 年Well Said….LL style looks like a collab with RYKA ??, and they were so Smug about it…I don’t know one Man that would even pick that shoe up….
VP - Product & Supply Chain
1 年Love the perspective! Spot on!!!
Saucony
1 年Well said
Coffee, Writing, Creativity
1 年I'm not a shoe designer just an avid runner and writer. Thanks for sharing this thoughtful piece!
Product Engineer | AI Automation | Founder | Likes to run a bit.
1 年I see Lulelemon doing what Allbirds did with running shoes... Mediocore performance, essentially becoming a 'transition' shoe for anyone who is moving from curious about running (and still brand driven) to actually running frequently (and becoming function driven)