How Food Media Has Transformed Modern Cuisine: A Response to Pete Wells’ Final New York Times Article

In the evolving landscape of food and dining, Pete Wells raised concerns about how technology and media have changed our experiences in restaurants in his final piece for 纽约时报 . While I understand his nostalgia for a time when dining was a purely human experience, I believe that food media has brought about significant, positive changes that cannot be overlooked. As a chef who has navigated this industry for over 12 years, I’ve seen firsthand how food media has not only shaped culinary trends but also enhanced the connection between chefs, restaurants, and the public.

Pete suggests that the increasing role of screens in dining has diminished the human touch in restaurants. While it's true that technology has changed how we interact with dining spaces, I see it differently. Food media, particularly through platforms like Instagram and TikTok, has allowed chefs like myself to maintain and even deepen the human connection with our audiences. These platforms give us the opportunity to tell our stories, share our culinary journeys, and connect with people in a way that was previously impossible.

For example, during the holiday season, I created a series on social media called "Noche Buena," which celebrated the rich traditions of the holiday dinner. The response was overwhelming, with people sharing their own stories and connecting over a shared love of food and culture. This kind of interaction is very human, even if it happens through a screen.

Pete argues that the industry hasn’t changed for the better. I respectfully disagree. Food media has played a crucial role in elevating chefs from behind the kitchen door to the forefront of culinary innovation. It has given chefs like me a platform to champion ingredients that are often overlooked. Take rice, for instance—an ingredient I passionately rally for, even dedicating an entire cookbook to it. This devotion to the world’s grain would not have been possible without the reach and influence of food media. Everyday on social media I see rice bringing people and cultures together (or maybe apart when we get into the pegao vs con con debate…)

Though, I agree with Pete that staying true to one's culinary roots while navigating trends can be challenging. However, food media has made it possible for chefs to innovate and adapt without losing authenticity. The viral cucumber trend, for example, may seem like just another fad, but it also represents the creativity and ingenuity that food media inspires. As chefs, our job is to take these trends and use them as a springboard for creating dishes that not only look good but also resonate on a deeper, cultural level.

Pete's concern about the democratization of food criticism is understandable, but I see it as a positive development. Yes, anyone can now be a food critic, and this has changed the dynamics of how restaurants are reviewed. But it has also opened the doors for chefs to receive real-time feedback from a diverse audience. This feedback can be invaluable in helping us refine our craft and connect more closely with our customers.

One area where food media and I find ourselves at a crossroads is the rise of influencers as chefs. Shows like Top Chef have made the idea of being an A+ chef attainable for the home cook, which is both inspiring and challenging. On one hand, it’s incredible to see culinary skills becoming more accessible and widely appreciated, breaking down the barriers between professional kitchens and home cooking. But it also raises a critical question: Does this take away from the years of rigorous training we spent in culinary school? At the same time, influencers sharing family recipes is a powerful way of preserving and passing down culture and tradition, even if the style of cooking isn't something I would have learned in culinary school. This blend of professional and personal culinary worlds is reshaping the landscape, for better or for worse, and it’s something we as chefs must navigate carefully.

At the heart of food media is storytelling. This is where I believe Pete and I align—food is more than just sustenance; it’s a way to bring people together, to celebrate diversity, and to create lasting memories. Through food media, chefs have the power to tell their stories, to highlight the people and traditions that shape their cuisine, and to connect with audiences on a personal level. This is a positive change that cannot be overlooked.

The impact of food media on modern cuisine is profound. It has changed the way we cook, eat, and perceive food. As chefs, we have the opportunity to harness this power to influence trends, build our brands, and connect with a global audience. But with this power comes the responsibility to stay true to our culinary values, to prioritize quality and authenticity over fleeting trends, and to use our platforms to inspire, educate, and bring people together through the universal language of food. While food media may shape public perception, it’s the flavors, the stories, and the experiences we create in our kitchens that leave a lasting impact.

While Pete Wells' concerns about the changing nature of dining are valid, I believe that food media has brought about a transformation that enhances the culinary world. It has given chefs like me a platform to innovate, connect, and inspire. The human element in dining hasn’t been lost—it has simply evolved.