How to Choose the Right Sewing Machine Needle
Using the wrong type of sewing machine needle is one of the most common mistakes we come across at Sew Essential. It can lead to needle breakage, difficulty working with the chosen fabric and poor stitch quality. You'll never have to experience these problems with our sewing machine needle guide! We've outlined the different types of needles available and the fabrics and threads they should be used with. Even if you're a confident stitcher and are in the know about needles its worth having a quick read. You might just surprise yourself and discover a life-changing needle you never knew existed!
Sewing Machine Needle Types
The first thing to know is that sewing machines needles are standardized. They are compatible across the range of brands, including Janome, Brother, Husqvarna, Elna, Pfaff etc. You can be safe in the knowledge that any?sewing machine needle?purchased from us will be compatible with any relatively modern domestic?sewing machine.
The number of different types and sizes of machine needle can seem a bit bewildering at first. However, it's not that difficult to get a handle on the different types. We've listed the most popular needles and the techniques and fabrics they're used for.
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As the name suggests, universal needles are the most commonly used needle. They can be used with woven fabrics, synthetics and some knit fabrics, although check the other needle types outlined below for specific types of knit fabric. The finer needles are mostly used for lightweight fabrics. Larger sizes are used on medium to heavyweight fabrics. Polyester / cotton or silk threads should be used with a universal needle.
Ball point needles have a more rounded tip than a universal needle which pushes the fabric fibres apart rather than cutting them. This makes ball point needles ideal for working with rib knits, interlock, cotton knits, fleece, double knit and generally most knit fabrics because it prevents them from running or laddering as a result of stitching. Polyester and polyester / cotton blend threads are best for use with ball point needles and finer threads should be used for finer needles.
A stretch needle has what is called a 'scarf' which allows extra room for the hook to pass close by and prevents skipped stitches making it ideal for use with fabrics such as Lycra, power net, two way stretch knits, silk jersey, spandex and highly elasticated synthetic fabrics or indeed elastic itself. Polyester or cotton wrapped polyester threads should be used. Stretch fabrics are renowned for being more difficult to work with and choosing the right needle is crucial to achieving a good end result.
If you're a quilter working with several layers of cotton and wadding or you're working with densely woven fabrics such as silk and micro fiber a sharps needle should be used. These needles are designed to work with several layers of fabric thanks to a stronger shaft which helps to avoid bent or broken needles and a sharp point which enables it to penetrate through the fabric and produce smooth buttonholes. A short round threading eye also gives extra strength during sewing.
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Quilting needles are also designed to be used with several layers of fabric and wadding thanks to a reinforced shaft, however, they are much shorter in length than the sharps needle to allow quilters to achieve quick and even stitching. Beginners will most likely find a smaller needle such as a size 7 or 8 easier to use whilst more experienced quilters often choose a larger option.
No prizes for guessing which fabric these needles are designed for! Yes, denim is the most obvious choice, but these needles are also best for other densely woven fabrics such as heavy twill, canvas and heavy linens often used for workwear. Whereas stretch and ball point needles are designed not to cut the fabric jeans needles have a very sharp point and a stronger shank to prevent needle bending or breakage and push through the heavy fabric. Threads such as synthetic or blends, 100% polyester, heavier top stitching threads and cotton wrapped polyester should be chosen when working with these needles and fabrics.
Leather needles are often known as chisel point needles thanks to a point that looks and acts like a chisel when in use. Yes, you've guessed it, these needles should be used with genuine leather, suede and difficult to sew projects, but should not be used with PU imitation leather, ultra suede or synthetic suede since the characteristics of these fabrics are quite different to their real counterparts.
If you're a bit of a magpie when it comes to thread and love a pretty metallic or rayon, a metafile needle is ideal when sewing or embroidering on woven or knitted fabrics. Metallic needles have an extra-large eye meaning these fancy threads feed through more freely and won't shred or split as a result of the sewing motion. If you ever struggle to thread your needle a metallic needle would be a good buy because it is also appropriate for general sewing and is much easier to thread due to the larger eye.
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Embroidery needles are designed with a wider eye to allow threads such as rayon, polyester or cotton machine embroidery threads to pass freely and easily when embroidering. Missed stitches can often occur when machine embroidering thanks to the fabric flexing up and down rapidly as a result of the fast-moving embroidery stitch. Embroidery needles have a pontoon scarf with an oversize bump which reduces the chance of this happening by reducing the amount of movement in the fabric.
Top stitch needles have an extra sharp point which will pierce all types of fabric easily and the large eye allows thick top stitching thread to be used.
These needles are used for pin tucking and decorative stitches and need to be used at a reduced speed. They are not compatible with all machines so always check your manual before using.
Used in conjunction with the special stitch options on your machine, wing needles will produce holes in the fabric to replicate drawn thread work. Fabrics made from natural fibres such as cotton should be used with these needles.
Quick Reference Chart
Sewing Machine Needle Type
Needle Size
Fabric Type
Thread Type
70 (10)
Voile, sheers, delicate silk
80 (12)
Shirtings, poplin, rayon, light wool
90 (14)
Medium - heavy, calico, linen
100 (16)
Heavy fabric, upholstery, bag making
110 (18)
Extra heavy fabric, upholstery
70 (10)
Voile, microfibre
80 (12)
Shirtings, microfibre, patchwork
90 (14)
All Sharps produced perfect top stitching
70 (10)
Light knits, tricot
80 (12)
Interlock, Lacoste
90 (14)
Medium heavy knits, double knit
75 (11)
Light lycra, elasticised fabrics
90 (14)
Elastic, heavier lycra, elasticised fabrics
90 (14)
Denim, tightly woven fabrics
100 (16)
Heavy denim, vinyl, furnishings
90 (14)
For all leather and suede
100 (16)
Do not use on synthetic leather
80 (12)
Decorative sewing on various fabrics
80 (12)
Quilts made from cotton, wool or
polyester with wadding centre
75 (11)
Decorative sewing on lightweight fabrics
90 (14)
Decorative sewing on heavier fabrics
Various
Decorative sewing on most fabrics
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What Do the Size Numbers Mean on Sewing Machine Needles?
You may be wondering what the size number such as 80/12 or 110/18 on sewing machine needles mean. Well, wonder no more! Of the two numbers, one is the European size and one is the American size. From thinnest to thickest, the European sizes range from 60 to 110, whereas the American sizes range from 8 to 18. Pretty simple, eh?
Generally, a?80/12 needle is used for dressmaking (and will probably be the size of needle you received with your sewing machine) but please refer to the quick reference table above for information on which needle sizes to use with particular threads, fabric types and fabric weights.
How Often Should I Change My Needle?
We generally recommend changing your needle after every project. Needle are pretty cheap, so it's not going to break the bank and you have the assurance that your needle will always perform as expected.
We also recommend giving the needle a good visual inspection if you machine has jammed. Jamming can result in the needle bending, which can lead to unexpected results such as poor stitch quality. If your machine is making an unusual thumping sound as the needle penetrates the fabric, then you definitely need to change the needle.
Fitting a New Needle
To fit a new needle the first thing we recommend is to pop a piece of paper under the foot. Then, when loosening the needle screw, there is no danger of the old needle dropping inside the machine. We don't want any expensive repair bills! Once the old needle is out, the new needle will only fit in the correct orientation due to the shank design. The flat side of the shank should face towards the rear of the sewing machine.
Make sure you push the new needle up as far as it will go before tightening the needle screw. If you don't you may get poor stitch quality, the needle could strike the bobbin case or your needle threader could be damaged (if your machine has one).
Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle
To finish off this article, lets get geeky and look at the various parts of the sewing machine needle.
Eye?- The hole in which the thread slides through. Good quality needles have a smoothly machined eye to minimize thread shredding. The eye size varies according to the intended thread type.
Shaft?- The shaft varies in thickness according to the intended fabric - thicker materials require a stiffer shaft.
Shank?- The part goes into the machine. Has a?flat side?to prevent incorrect insertion?
Point?- The point shape varies widely between different needle types, from ball point for knit fabrics to chisel shaped for leather.
Scarf?- Enables the hook to get close to the eye of the needle to avoid skipped stitches.
So there you have it, a rundown of the movers and shakers of the needle world, their uses, recommended sizes, fabrics and threads. If you have any requests for a particular?sewing?guide or tutorial please don't hesitate to get in?touch. Watch this space for more in-depth articles from Sew Essential.
SEWING NEEDLES TYPES AND SIZES
Introduction
Lots of people – sadly, even many who sew – believe there are only two types of sewing needles… needles for sewing by hand and needle for sewing on a machine.
That is as far from the truth as Earth is from the moon. Whether sewing by hand or machine, you will find that there are sewing needles for every task, type of machine and fabric type.
Common Features of Hand Sewing Needles and Machine Sewing Needles
Before discussing the differences between hand and machine sewing needles, let’s first take a look at the similarities.
Regardless of whether you are using a hand or machine needle, they all have some common ground… starting with the point:
o??Ball point – used for knit fabrics. The ball point does not separate the fibers, stretching them out of shape, but rather goes around and between them, retaining the integrity of the fabric.
o??Regular or Universal point – ideal for light to heavyweight woven fabrics. Universal point needles go through, not around the fibers within the woven fabric. Needle size is determined by the weight of the fabric to be sewn. (see fabric table for details)
Ball point Needles
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Needle Type
Use
Description
Beading
Attaching sequins to fabric; stringing beads for jewelry – necklaces/bracelets/ anklets
Long thin needle with a medium sized eye, somewhat flexible
Chenille
Ribbon/yarn/embroidery floss
Long thick needle with an eye large enough to use several strands of embroidery floss or yarn at one time.
Darning
Mending holes … usually in wool socks, sweaters and jackets.
Long, average thickness with large. Darning needles sometimes vary in length, but generally all darning needles have the same thickness and large eyes to accommodate yarn when necessary.
Self threading
General use – seams, hemming, attaching buttons
Self threading needles vary in length and thickness. The primary difference between these needles and all others is that there is a slit at the eye to allow thread to go into the eye without having to be threaded as with traditional hand needles.
Embroidery
Decorative hand embroidery and crewel* stitching.
Average length and thickness with a large eye to accommodate embroidery floss and yarn.
Leather
Sewing leather, buckskin and suede. Hand leather needles are used primarily for decorative top stitching and for adding shank buttons to leather, buckskin and suede garments and accessories.
Varying length and thickness; triangular point; small eye.
Milliners’
needles
Decorative stitching, pleating and basting
Longer versions of sharp needles (see below)
Sharps
General sewing, hemming, etc.
Sharp point, medium length, round eye.
Carpet sharps
Working with rugs and carpets
Longer and thicker than regular sharps.
Tapestry
Embroidery, needlepoint, decorative stitches on thick or loose weave fabric.
Long needle with a large eye and blunt tip.
Upholstery
Tufting; working with thick upholstery fabric; tying off quilts.
Thick curved or straight needles. Curved upholstery needles are used when working with a straight needle is awkward. Straight upholstery needles can be from 3 to 12 inches long. Curved upholstery needles vary in length from 1 ? to 6 inches.
Hand sewing needles
Depending upon the task, you will find that hand sewing needles may look alike, but are vastly different.
Typically, hand sewing needles all have a sharp point on one end and an eye for the thread to pass through at the other. That, however, is where the similarity ends.
Hand sewing needles may all look alike, but they are quite different.
Some of these differences are visible to the naked eye.
Others, however, may require a magnifying glass or microscope to detect.
They are used for quilting, beading, upholstery, embroidery and countless other tasks.
The following table describes some of the most popular types of hand sewing needles.
* Crewel stitching is a form of hand embroidery that includes decorative knotting to give texture to hand embroidered projects.
Machine Sewing Needles
The needles used in sewing machines and sergers are different from needles used for hand sewing in that the eye and the point are at the same end.
The opposite end of the needle is usually flat on at least one side for insertion in the needle bar of the sewing machine. The size and shape of the insertion end depends largely upon the sewing machine manufacturer.
Machine sewing needles
Sewing machine and serger needles are sold under the brand name f the sewing machine manufacturer.
Sewing machine needles sold by other manufacturers are often categorized by machine brand name, making it easier for consumers to select needles that are compatible with their machines.
Unlike hand needles, there are fewer types of machine needles. Do not, however, let that fool you. If you use the wrong needle, you will very quickly discover your mistake.
If you are sewing several items in a single day, it may be necessary for you to change your needle three or four times in order to get the best possible results for each different sewing project you take on.
When it comes to sewing needles, it should be noted here that in addition to standard universal and ball point needles, chromium round or universal point needles are ideal for machine embroidery, serging and for sewing at very high speeds.
Chromium needles are stronger than their regular counterparts, and therefore capable of withstanding the pounding generated by creating up to 2,500 stitches per minute without suffering the stress that could easily break or damage an ordinary needle.
Chromium needles cost a little more, but are well worth the investment when you consider the fact that you will be replacing your needles far less frequently.
Choose the Right Needle for the Job
Needle Type
Use
Description
Denim/Jeans
Sewing Denim, twill and lightweight canvas
Sharp point, larger than most other types of machine sewing needles
Twin
Used for topstitching, decorative effects including certain types of pintucks
Two needles mounted on one bar. Twin needles can be used on most sewing machines. Read your owners’ manual before investing in a twin needle to make sure your machine is compatible with the needle you are interested in.
Wing
Used in heirloom sewing. The wings that extend the entire length of the needle leave a tiny hole at each stitch. Best if used with natural woven fibers – cotton or linen.
Wings extend from the point up the shaft, tapering toward the needle clasp.
Leather
Used for sewing leather, suede and buckskin.
Slight triangle at the point makes it easier to pierce the material.
Up to this point, we have discussed many different types of needles and the fabric types these needles are best suited for.
Choose the Right Needle for the Job
However, we have given very little attention to, different fabric weights or sewing needle sizes. When shopping for needles, you will notice little numbers on the package.
These numbers indicate the actual size of the needle point. I like to purchase needles that come in packages containing multiple sizes.
This is a personal preference and simply because I work with many different types and weights of fabric on a regular basis.
Once a multi pack is opened, keeping up with the various needle sizes can be a challenge if you do not have a system for identifying the various sizes already in place.
Each needle has its size stamped at the top. Most people need a magnifying glass to see these tiny numbers, however. Some people develop a color coded system to make the process a little easier.
They assign a needle size to a particular color and then make a tiny mark at or near the top of the needle with an indelible marking pen. Not only is this a great time saver, it helps alleviate eye strain.
If, however, you work almost exclusively with lightweight knit fabric, or light to medium weight woven fabrics, you probably have no need for a needle combo pack in your sewing basket.
For those who work with multiple fabric types and weights, however, the following table* should be useful in helping you determine which sewing needle type and size to use for specific fabric weights and types.
Fabric Weight/Woven
Needle
Point
Needle
Size
Sheer … voile, chiffon, georgette, batiste, organza, microdenier, microfiber
Universal
9/70;
11/80
Lightweight … crepe de chine, charmeuse, gauze, tissue faille, handkerchief linen, taffeta, silk
Universal
11/80
Medium weight … chintz, corduroy, brocade, broadcloth, flannel, poplin, linen, taffeta, ultra (synthetic) suede, terrycloth, velvet, satin
Universal
14/90
Medium to heavy weight … gabardine, ticking, wool, coating, damask, drapery fabric, upholstery fabric, fake fur
Universal
16/100;
18/100
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Fabric Weight/Knit
Needle
Point
Needle
Size
Sheer/lightweight … spandex, tricot, jersey, single knit
Ball
10/70;
12/80
Medium/heavyweight … double knit; sweater knit; sweatshirt fabric
Ball
14/90
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Specialty Fabrics
Needle
Point
Needle
Size
Denim or canvas
Denim/
Jeans
16/100
Leather/suede/buckskin
Leather/
Wedge
14/90;
16/100
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PhD Student @ UofNewHaven | Materials Chemistry | Passionate about research on catalysts, bioplastics, materials design, and functionalization
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