Hidden Horological Treasures
ZENITH Chronomaster Sport White Dial On Bracelet

Hidden Horological Treasures

In the world of luxury timepieces, it's often the big-name brands that receive the most attention. However, there are hidden gems waiting to be discovered among the lesser-known watchmakers. These underrated watches offer exceptional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and remarkable value for money.


ZENITH Watches Chronomaster Sport

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ZENITH Chronomaster Sport White Dial On Strap

While you may think this looks like (you guessed it) ROLEX Daytona, and your thinking hey these guys really had the chutzpah to copy Rolex, it is entirely not true.

Founded in 1865, Zenith has a reputation as one of the few real movement manufacturers in Switzerland long before the current industry trend of vertical integration. The most famous is the El Primero, which started the era of automatic chronographs in the late 1960s, in 1988 Rolex bought El Primero movements, first ever automatic chronograph movements, and installed it in the Daytona, you can still hear till today collectors speak about the “Daytona El Primero”.

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Zenith Chronomaster 1970s

However Zenith had their Chronomaster sport watch in 1969, which technically means Rolex copied Zenith. Today there’s a new sporty generation of Zenith's iconic automatic chronographs, with all styles which includes the now equipped with a ceramic bezel, tri-color sub-dials, three-link stainless steel bracelet with polished center links and deployment clasp. At a price tag of $11,000 with no “waitlist” this is definitely a winner, and hopefully one day to acquire one.


GP芝柏表簡介 Vintage 1945 XXL

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Girard Perregaux vintage 1945

Girard Perregaux is considered underrated due to several factors. First, the brand itself may not have the same level of mainstream recognition as some of its Swiss counterparts due to less marketing. Despite its long-standing history and exceptional craftsmanship as the 3rd oldest brand in the world.

Although Girard Perregaux got good press for their “Laurento model” and the controversy on the “integrated bracelet wagon” which every brand is running towards. It is incredible value for your money at a relatively low price of approx $10,000, and much cheaper at second hand, most people in the world do not know the brand.

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My Girard Perregaux vintage XXL


Back to the Vintage 1945 XXL, After discussing with collectors and enthusiasts regarding the brand, and did my full research i bought vintage 1945 XXL (see pic above) which i love it, i have a few straps for it mixing leather and rubber based on the proper occasion.

The first obvious thing on the watch, rectangle 45mm, it is the most beautiful curved case, and long pointy lugs with breguet numerals, In house chronograph movement, the new model starts at roughly $14,500 to $21,000 for steel version, which is steep, but it comes with date and moon face and some titanium, while its semi skeletonized the dial (look at the pic below), my opinion remains it is a great value for what you get, and I personally love underrated watches.

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Girard Perregaux vintage 1945 XXL Date & Moon face



Grand Seiko Corporation of America Spring Drive 'Blue Snowflake

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GRAND SEIKO Spring Drive 'Blue Snowflake SBGA407

Grand Seiko, a brand often overshadowed by its Swiss phenomenon, Seiko has been steadily gaining recognition for its exceptional craftsmanship. The SBGA407, known as the "Blue Snowflake," is a testament to their dedication. It features a stunning blue textured dial, resembling frozen fallen snow, and a robust stainless steel case, and 72 power reserve, The watch houses the Spring Drive movement which is obviously “In house”.

while all Grand seiko’s are really beautiful, to me this watch stands out, the way the dial screams craftsmanship, you rarely see it in Swiss watches, such high precision on dials at a joking price of $5,800 it is truly a bargain. It would be an absolute joy to add this watch to my collection and cherish its beauty.

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GRAND SEIKO Spring Drive 'Blue Snowflake SBGA407


Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph

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Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date

Glashütte Original is a German luxury watch brand that might not enjoy the same recognized as the Swiss. While Swiss brands dominate the luxury watch industry, German watchmaking has a rich heritage and a distinct approach to craftsmanship that is often overlooked (Like A. Lange & S?hne ). It is known for its exceptional attention to detail and precision, and “in house movements”.

The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date stands out for its unique design. Inspired by the era of the 1970s, it features a tonneau-shaped stainless steel case with integrated lugs, giving it a distinctive look, while having one of the most accurate chronograph, and beautiful straps, at a relative fair price of $13,400 it is not cheap, but you get German precision with it.

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Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date


In conclusion this article explores these underrated timepieces that offer exceptional craftsmanship, innovative designs, and remarkable value for money. From Zenith's Chronomaster Sport, paying tribute to the iconic El Primero movement, to Girard-Perregaux's Vintage 1945 XXL with its elegant curved case, and the captivating Grand Seiko 'Blue Snowflake' with its stunning blue textured dial resembling fallen snow. Not to be overlooked is Glashütte Original's Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, embodying German precision and unique 1970s-inspired design.

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Glashutte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date movement

With all this being said, there’s a lot of hidden gems in the watch industry ready to reveal, you only have to look, which one would you choose?












Charles Chaim Kohl

Associate Architect

1 年

Other underrated watches that come to my mind Is Junghans, and Rado they both come in under 2k And have absolutely iconic designs, that you don't see anywhere else

Charles Chaim Kohl

Associate Architect

1 年

I've been eyeing the zenith chronomaster, I think it's a bargain in the luxury market I think the quality matches Rolex, the design is absolutely gorgeous and really unique I would take this every day over a Daytona

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