The Heritage of Mountaineers

Some of the greatest climbers and alpinists of the last hundred years has marked the world of the mountain-lovers much more for their capabilities to communicate their own experiences and values, than for their bare alpinist conquests and exploits.

Some sayings and book’s titles such as “Because it’s there” ( George Mallory’s famous answer on the reason why he was stubborn to attempt Mt. Everest summit in early 1920s), “Les conquérants de l’inutile - Des Alpe à L’Annapurna” (in English “Conquistadors of the Useless”, title of a famous book written by the French guide Lionel Terray), “Par lui l’alpinisme c’est deja lo ciel” (the French idiom could be translated “As alpinist he is already in heaven”, it’s the title of an article published on Paris-Match on March 1963 referring to the extraordinary alpinist Walter Bonatti, just after his successful Grandes Jorasses north-face wintry climb with Cosimo Zappelli): are alone eloquent to tell which values, will, strength animated those mountaineers.

“Because it’s there” it’s also the title of a book written by Dudley Green in 2005 which describes George Mallory magnificent life and conquests. On the 8 June 1924, at his third attempt to be the first man to reach the top of the world (Mt. Everest 8.848m), he was lastly seen by other members of the expedition (at 12:50) still going hard towards the summit accompanied by his mate, the young chemist Andrew Irvine, even if they were hours behind their schedule and still at an estimated high of 8.540m (remarkable distance at those heights). He never came back from the summit, if he ever had reached it.

Beyond all his life dedicated to better himself, he reached a thinkable goal which were not considered possible at the time, moreover his experience gives us a great takeaway which any passionate of mountains and hiking should never forget. The first “rule” of a mountaineer consist in remembering to save energies for the way back: reaching the top of a ride means only, optimistically, being at the half of the complete effort required, considering that exhaustions sums on what has been already stockpiled. Sometimes going downhill on steep slopes require even more concentration and energies than ramping-up. ?

In conclusion, everybody in the mountain should be able to renounce and come back before it’s too late in an environment where weather conditions could changes radically in less than one hour. The rules of high mountains often have been orally transmitted for decades, it’s foundations are based on the deference of men against nature (otherwise it would be an uneven struggle) and on the specific training for high altitudes. In any case, today it should be still valid, at least for the Alps, the unwritten rule which strongly recommend to leave the glacier, after the ascent, within 12:00 to avoid risks caused by the hottest hours of the day. It’s then very important to plan accurately timing of the ascent and leave the refuge before dawn, being aware of weather forecast and actual temperature which should be compatible with good condition of ice.

More than the best climber for the decades 1950s and 1960s, Walter Bonatti is well known worldwide as a major-league writer, photo-journalist and explorer. His original best seller, “Le mie montagne” (“My mountains”), depicts his best adventures and achievements during the first ten years of his climbing career (it was published just after the disastrous climb at the Freney buttress at Mont Blanc in July 1961). Within those pages comes out the enthusiasm of the great days in which he completed new routes on the most famous mountains of the Alps, Himalaya and Patagonia. He shared his attempts with other first class climbers and friends. For him friendship was far more important than succeeding in the climb at least at the first attempt: once two human beings tide together with a rope, to overtake a difficult route, it represent much more than a bare mean of safety. Binding each other together was the confirmation of trust between friends who rely on each other and one put oneself in someone’s shoes. Loyalty and respect for friendship and for safety in the fight against what, till then, was considered impossible are common roots and values. The mountains in general are not entities the climber is able to fight against: quite the opposite, natural elements must be interpreted and human senses are all involved to understand the language of the mountain which primarily requires respect.

In the fabulous chapter titled “Eighteen thousands meters in four days an half” the author, at the time mountain guide in Courmayeur (15th August 1959), stops his daily activities on the toughest routes of Mont Blanc Range and for two days he challenges himself together with two among his greatest friends (Andrea Oggioni and Roberto Gallieni) in the repetition of the north-west face of Grivola (3.969m, in the Grand Paradiso Range). Actually this climb should be considered easier than usual top routes at Mont Blanc but for the variety of the path and the objective dangers (fragile rocks, succession of rocks and snow, steepness and glass-ice covering rocks) resulted to be a climb of sure effort. Relying on a consolidated team and expertise the caravan reaches the summit after a long approach and superb climb which required great effort: from the summit a magnificent view of Gran Paradiso Range, Mont Blanc Range, Matterhorn and Mont Rosa. Within these heroic pages it’s clear the importance for one to be honest with oneself and to follow the rules of the game oneself has accepted. Mountaineers teaches us to pursue our goals with resilience, curiosity and a sense of respect for our own values. In the mountain as well as in life, shortcuts are not a valid solution or a reliable plan.

I would say, in mountain as in life, Empathy, Respect and Friendship help you understand people’s feeling, even when you haven’t shared their experience. Careful preparation and deep training should be proportional to the level of targets addressed. Eighteen thousands meters difference of hight, up and down-hill together, in sixty-two hours of actual climb or walk: Bonatti has always been fond of statistics and measures, only measuring the training and difference in altitude is possible to improve readiness for the challenges in high mountains, where all the risks should be carefully calculated and it’s always recommended to preserve spare energies. Many are the alpinists belonging to the same generation who may be represented by him: for sure Carlo Mauri, Dino Piazza (both from Lecco) and Carlo Casati (from Monza). Among the guides who operated in Aosta valley I wish to mention also Cosimo Zappelli for the Mont Blanc, Vincenzo Perruchon and Alfredo Abram for the Gran Paradiso Range.

Chaterine Destivelle , ten years ago decided to celebrate her magnificent career with a short film “Au-delà des cimes” (“Beyond summits”, she was uncontested considered among the best climber of the 80’s and top alpinist of the ‘90s). ?Wisely she avoids describing all her unique climbing activity, she concentrates on her friendship and bonds from a lifetime. Looking to Catherine climbing is even more inspiring as she shares with the audience all the teachings the high mountains has given to her during several adventures. One of the most touching parts of the film is represented by the climb of Grand Capucin (huge vertical monolith pinnacle of red granite stone, a satellite of Mont Blanc du Tacul) following Bonatti-Ghigo route opened in 1951 on the East Face.

Approaching a smooth plate of ten meters wide, where it wasn’t possible to use protective devices, she falls 4 meter away from the last climbing nail, and promptly her companion stops her fall. Soon after the momentary fright, narrating voice shares with us a rich and unchallengeable teaching: “In the mountain the most important thing it’s not avoiding to fall. Rediscovering the courage to start again it’s much more important”, as well as in life I would say!

Catherine ?chooses significant company for the three climbing experiences which she introduce in her film.?Climbing Aguille di Grepon, with her sister, portrays gratitude for her family who routed and always supported her in alpinism. Then, as mentioned, she completed one of the toughest climbing route in the Mont Blanc, the east face of Grand Capucin, this time she shares the adventure with her first apprentice from Chamonix guide’s school. ?Teaching to a junior guide and leading her on a great rock face, it’s the best way to transmit her passion: Catherine recognizes the great fortune she had received from the mountain and wish to pass the baton to the guides of next generation. For the third adventure, the climb of Aguille Verte, she is together with two old friends who saved her live many years ago when she, alone, had fallen into a crevasse. She was rescued by those alpinists and then recovered from this accident. She has been lifelong grateful for their assistance received when she couldn’t move after breaking her pelvis during the fall. On the top of the Aguille Verte, with the two friend-alpinists in their old age, the scene infuse a sense of great freedom. Indeed the mountain sets you free: the mind enter in new dimension and nature makes your body feel much better.

Matteo Della Bordella’s renown has been built over the respect for the mountain traditions (climbing by fair means) and the consideration of climbing being a pervasive way of living. Besides being among the contemporary top climbers worldwide, he is always searching for new experience of climbing in mountain ranges all over the world with high respect to nature. Search for continuous improvement brings him and his climber partners to complete new routes on the most beautiful mountains of the planet and to challenge them in campaigns to support nature and the conservation of our planet. For instance, during the last year, they started a new program "Climb & Clean" which consists in cleaning the areas surrounding climbing cliffs: in one occasion they recovered even part of lorries and engines abandoned for years at the bottom of crags. You couldn’t imagine how many bins of litter have been rescued: a remarkable message for young and older mountain lovers who should always respect nature and preserve it untouched for the next generations, for thousands years to come.

He has been president of the climber group “Ragni di Lecco” (word for word “Lecco’s Spiders”), eminent assignment for a young men of 35 years (the younger president ever). He was admitted, years ago, in this group for his climbing merits: it gave him possibility to share his passion with other outstanding climbers and to organize expeditions in Patagonia, Himalaya, Greenland. During his presidency he held many lectures and promoted education and development of respect and knowledge of the mountain: the pivotal element it’s awareness of mountain risks and dangers.

In 2019 Matteo Della Bordella wrote his first book related to his mountain activity, titled “La via meno battuta. Tutto quello che mi ha insegnato la montagna” (“The least beaten path. Everything the mountain taught me”). Training for unknown and unforeseen it isn’t ever enough: a remarkable example is given in the book, the author trained himself specifically to repeat route opened by Casimiro Ferrari (another famous climber from the '80s belonging to the group "Lecco's Spiders") on the dangerous rock of Fiz Roy in Patagonia. When his companions decide there were no chances (for weather conditions and number of remaining days for the climb) and propose to converge on the repetition of an itinerary on mixed terrain (rock and ice) on the Cerro Torre, he gave up. He felt to have a long preparation for the specific rock of Fiz Roy: at the time, he didn’t feel sure to embark on a difficult rock and ice route where was required expertise in piolet-traction ice technique. He didn’t feel ready for such an adventure, then he gave up and avoided having to compromise.

Reading this substantial book the reader understands that passion for mountain climbing it’s much more related to a philosophical need, a response to existential needs of personal knowledge, than a bare sport record. Finding our own way it’s the toughest route. The hardest is not to find the way or our own way but to understand the essence of life and the reason why we undertake challenging experiences. Once this concept is understood the setting already change and the perception become that of a path downhill.

The author, years ago, completed a PhD in business engineer: in any experience it’s valuable to confront with our own boundaries, overtake our fears and struggle with perseverance to pursue a dream. By making mistakes you learn: the book provides an example useful in team building and for business leaders, from en episode happened during the expedition in Pakistan to open a new route on Uli Bihao tower within the group of Trango Towers. If a team happens to divide into two subgroup, for any reason: once a meeting point has been agreed upon, disregarding it from one of the two parties imply an irreparable loss of trust by the others. Fortunately during the author's experience the whole expedition wasn't compromised but one of the components left the group, for trust loss.

This book, as well as the experiences of many other explorers, remember us to maintain the courage to admit a slip-up and to follow a different route, widely-unknown, our own route! I personally encourage everybody to enjoy reading those pages.

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Bibliography:

1.??????Because It’s There: the life of George Mallory. (Dudley Green, 2005)

2.??????Capocordata: La mia vita di alpinista. (Riccardo Cassin, 2001)

3.??????I conquistatori dell’inutile: dalle Alpi all’Annapurna. (Lionel Terray, 1961)

4.??????Le mie montagne. (Walter Bonatti, 1961)

5.??????Le mani sulla roccia. Diario Alpinistico (Andrea Oggioni, 2012)

6.??????Freney 1961. La tempesta sul Monte Bianco. (Marco Albino Ferrari, 2018)

7.??????Guida ai rifugi e bivacchi in valle d’Aosta. (Cosimo Zappelli, 1979)

8.??????La forza della natura. Franco Miotto, l’uomo dei viaz. (Luisa Mandrino, 2002)

9.??????Due montanari Arturo e Oreste Squinobal dalle Alpi all'Himalaya. (Maria Teresa Cometto, 2019)

10.??La via meno battuta. Tutto quello che mi ha insegnato la montagna. (Matteo Della Bordella, 2019)?