Growth Factors: Should I Use ZO or SkinMedica?

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In 2009, as I sat working at my desk, my aesthetician at the time plunked a bottle of SkinMedica TNS on my desk and stood at attention. My first question was what is it, and my second question was how much did it cost. To her credit she knew both.

First in class and first to market, SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum launched in 2008. A dual pump dispenser, one side contained growth factors derived from human cells, the other side a combination of powerful antioxidants. The term tissue nutrient solution was patented. Fast forward to 2020 and SkinMedica re-formulated its hero product and relaunched it as TNS Advanced + Serum in a white and silver bottle to complement its white, clear and odorless new form in contrast to its predecessor which had garnered many complaints as to the scent. The new and improved version boasted more potent growth factors after a decade of research and development. Scientists had been hard at work in the laboratories in Irvine, California. Or had they? Speculation holds that the original scientist who developed TNS Essential Serum was invited back to the Allergan-based lab to birth its second baby and named it TNS Advanced + Serum.

First patented in 2000, SkinMedica had apparently discovered the fountain of youth with human-based growth factors as its primary ingredient. Since that time, the company can proudly claim 43 clinical studies and 90 peer-reviewed publications. However good a formulation that does not appear to need tweaking, we have seen no further evolution of growth factors in the launch of any new products from SkinMedica, despite claims from the scientific community that we have only seen the tip of the iceberg when it comes to this field of research.

Enter ZO Skin Health. Named after dermatologist Dr. Zen Obagi, his first skincare line was famous for the treatment of pigmentation. The next generation ZO line is known for the treatment of every type of skin disorder imaginable from pigmentation to sensitive skin to anti-aging.

In March of 2019, The Journal of Drugs and Dermatology released an article concluding that ZO Skin Health had formulated its own version of a growth factor serum…derived from plants. Clinical study parameters reviewed fine lines and wrinkles (specifically crow’s feet around the eyes), texture, smoothness, radiance, overall appearance of the facial skin, firmness and elasticity. Subject participants were questioned on satisfaction with the product as well. The conclusions of the study revealed a safe and effective product utilizing plant-derived growth factors which, in turn, modulated human cells.

What exactly are growth factors and why are they of interest in the area of anti-aging medicine? They are proteins which upregulate cell growth in desirable pathways such as new collagen formation to reduce wrinkles and lines in the skin, as well as reduce inflammation, a culprit in the aging process. As per the clinical trials, growth factors also assisted with repairing the barrier function of the skin by retaining and maintain hydration and giving skin its smooth appearance and the plumpness associated with a youthful glow. In addition, these growth factors can assist with more rapid wound healing after laser and surgical procedures as well.

The SkinMedica TNS Advanced + Serum is recommended for use immediately post-cleansing as the first step before all other topical products are applied to the skin whereas the ZO Growth Factor Serum is more emolliating and can be applied as the last step prior to sun protection.

At the end of day, whose to say you can’t hedge your bets and use both products for a winning complexion?

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