Great Road Journeys - Kipling Tour, Panna

The Panna National Park is unique in the sense that by 2009 it had lost its entire tiger population. Following a reintroduction exercise from other parks in Madhya Pradesh, the population has bounced back and tigers are now possible to sight frequently.

The main park has an area of 600 sq kms but the Tiger Reserve with its adjacent buffer zones is much larger. In the tropical region of Panna, the climate is sometimes very pleasant in winter months, but scorching during summers.

The Ken River flows through this reserve with beautiful waterfalls . The park has numerous sites of historical importance with stone paintings dating back to Neolithic era.

The ideal home for the Royal Bengal Tiger, Panna is has deciduous forests and includes species like Indian wolf, four-horned antelope, sloth bear pangolin, rusty spotted cat, leopard, caracal and gharial.

Close to the Tiger Reserve is the town of Khajarao with ancient monuments comprising a group of Hindu and Jain Temples. They are a a UNESCO world heritage site. Most Khajuraho temples were built between 950 AD and 1050 AD by the Chandela dynasty. Historical records note that the temple site had 85 temples by the 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometers. Of these, only about 25 temples have survived, spread over six square kilometers. The Khajuraho group of temples were built together but were dedicated to two sects, Hinduism and Jainism, suggesting a tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views amongst the community at that time.

We left Gwalior after breakfast and the the journey to Panna was about 400 kms. It took the greater part of 9 hours with a couple of stops. It is a pleasant enough drive through Jhansi and Orchha with decent road conditions.

We arrived at 6 pm and stayed at the Taj Safari Property - Pashan Garh, which is built in about 200 acres of dense forest.

Frequently, you spot tigers beside your room, together with lots of other animals and birds. I stay frequently with Taj Safaris and therefore know most of the staff in all their properties. Inevitably therefore I end up getting pampered by the Chef and hotel management. This time was no different. Mukesh the executive Chef (who has now been posted in Kanha) took such pains to ensure our comfort, that it was deeply touching. Housekeeping standards are par excellence and equivalent or superior to any I have experienced in my extensive travels in Africa in very high end hotels. The F&B is certainly much better. The Lodge Manager, Atul Pandey has over the years become a dear friend. He too is now posted in Kanha. We had cocktails at the bar and dinner at 7.30 pm. There was an early start the following morning.

Usually you have to share your safari jeep with other guests but somehow due to the consideration of the hotel I always seem to get on for myself. That is useful ad I have heavy camera equipment with several lenses and two camera bodies including a 400 mm, ideal for wildlife and specifically birds.

We left the lodge at 5.30 am to the park gate. The animal sightings are wonderful and the scenery remarkable. In some ways Panna is a unique has its has flat lands and hills with cliffs that support a large population of vultures. We had decent tiger sightings together with a leopard.

Something special that Panna offers is a boat safari along the Ken River with unique opportunities to spot birds. But we were luckier! We saw a tiger along the river bank - a very rare treat.

Ideally you should spend three to four nights in Panna but we had a long journey ahead so had to leave on the third day - therefore two nights and four safaris. That is never enough. Being a wildlife photographer I spend a lot of time in National Parks - almost a week each month and I am therefore cautious. In the old days, I used to walk back leisurely to my room after dinner with being accompanied by a guar, but following an incident in Kanha where a tiger was spotted on the path to my room, I have become very careful. I now gracefully accept the services of an accompanying guard.

On forest trips it is important to have a powerful flashlight because you can spot nocturnal animals at night from your room veranda. Wild boars and deer are common and sometimes even a leopard or a tiger.

If you have not been to a national park before, you must remember a dress etiquette. No bright colours - only earthy ones - green or brown. A hat is essential and so is a pair of good binoculars.