Great places to visit
Tortilla founder Brandon Stephens took me to lunch the other day at Maison Bab, and during the meal, asked me if I had seen any great places recently. It was one of those times when my mind went completely blank, and my face looked completely vacant. It was only when I had time to reflect that I could provide a semi-sensible answer, and while I’m now doing so via this column and not over lunch, hopefully it is still relevant.
?I would probably start with Maison Bab if I’m honest. It’s not a place I would normally even think of visiting – I can’t be the only person who associates kebabs with having a drink too many, falling asleep on the sofa and waking up with a face full of greasy meat. That was quite a while ago to be fair, but even so, the memory and the smell still linger on. Maison Bab is great, however, and put all those dubious memories to rest – although I did get more food on my clothes than I would have liked!
?Granger & Co in Chelsea was an altogether more sophisticated experience in terms of clothes and food. The team didn’t flinch when I ordered a totally naked burger, though maybe it muttered behind the scenes. It’s not easy to summon up great plate presentation when only a burger graces the plate, with or without cheese, but it managed to. We had a great server, the atmosphere was relaxed, and there were chips you couldn’t say no to. I didn’t order any to save on calories, but then found myself inexplicably eating everyone else’s and being really cross with myself for the rest of the evening.
?Talking about food, I loved The Grenadier in Belgravia. It must have a kitchen the size of a gnat (the rest of the pub is also tiny) but produced jaw-dropping portions of fabulous tasting food. It’s the sort of pub with a host who makes you want to stay there all day too. It’s a bit of a hidden gem in London, I think.
?Hotel dining doesn’t really appeal – often too many rules, too much formality and not enough feel for food and beverage – but I liked The Standard (and its peaceful garden) just opposite King’s Cross. The décor is eclectic, interesting, creative and joyful, with just enough in there to keep a customer engaged if they are on their own and have had enough of scrolling through Instagram.
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?The Dakota Grill in Manchester was also interesting (though not always for the right reasons) when I had a meeting there this week. The moody, dark décor did rather conflict with summer outside, but I imagine in winter that it’s cosy, warm and very appealing. My burrata was really rather nice. If the hotel provided the chocolate fingers in the meeting room, then that was a move of genius, but I suspect it didn’t.
?For coffee, WatchHouse in Seven Dials was certainly a cut above the norm. Sacrilege, I know, but instant is always my coffee of choice. However, I had “fear of missing out” watching everyone else’s order, so chose to go a little bit more upmarket and order an Americano. It was a work of art. The service was attentive, friendly and caring. The little coffee shop behind Arket, off Long Acre, is worth a visit too, as long as you march straight in and out and don't get distracted by the homeware.
?The new Cote at Henley is worth a visit (love its champagne patio), as is the Bistrot Pierre and The Clubhouse (from New World Trading Company) in Plymouth (especially if you stay in the former overnight), and the Loungers in Torquay. It’s a wonderful location, and the best team I have experienced anywhere for a long while.
?On my must visit list has to be Ego, as I haven’t managed to visit even one yet, but I know how successful it is. So too are the new Amalfi restaurant from The Big Table off Trafalgar Square – which Alan Morgan, its chief executive, thinks is amazing – and Bibi in Mayfair, which everyone is talking about. Lots of new concepts too are emerging, which I can’t wait to experience.
Ann Elliott is a hospitality strategist, connector and adviser