Grand Seiko Recreates The Iconic 45GS With Limited Edition Models SLGW004 and SLGW005

In September 2024, Grand Seiko announced the return of an iconic vintage model from its collection – the 45GS. First introduced in 1968, the 45GS has long been considered the "little brother" of the 44GS, which was released just a year earlier. Both models have played a pivotal role in shaping Grand Seiko’s design philosophy, with the 44GS setting the stage with its "grammar of design" – a concept that has defined the brand’s aesthetic for decades.

While the 44GS has been a staple in modern iterations of the brand, the 45GS has largely remained absent from Grand Seiko’s recent offerings. That is, until now. With the release of the SLGW004 and SLGW005, Grand Seiko has brought the 45GS back into the spotlight, presenting two new recreations in a limited edition release.

A Brief History of the 45GS

The original 45GS was produced from 1968 to 1973 and shared many design elements with the 44GS. Both models were crafted at Seiko’s Daini factory, one of the company’s renowned production facilities at the time. Designed by Taro Tanaka, the 44GS was revolutionary for establishing a distinct visual identity for Grand Seiko, characterized by sharp angles, flat surfaces, and polished edges that played with light and shadow.

The 45GS, while similar, introduced a few subtle variations. It was slightly smaller than the 44GS, with a 36.5mm case compared to the 44GS’s 37mm case. The most significant innovation, however, was the introduction of a high-beat movement. Operating at 36,600 vibrations per hour (vph), or 5Hz, the 45GS became the first Grand Seiko watch to feature this advanced technology, which contributed to increased precision.

The 45GS continued the legacy of its predecessor by refining and evolving the "grammar of design." It maintained the sharply polished case flanks, brushed shouldered lugs, and partially recessed crown that were hallmarks of the 44GS, but with updated proportions and the addition of the high-beat movement, the 45GS carved out its own place in Seiko’s history.

The SLGW004 and SLGW005: A Modern Rebirth

Fast forward to 2024, and Grand Seiko has reimagined the 45GS in two new models: the SLGW004 in 18k yellow gold and the SLGW005 in stainless steel. These limited-edition recreations capture the essence of the original while incorporating modern advancements.

The case design remains faithful to the original, with the distinctive sloping flanks and broad lugs that made the 45GS so recognizable. However, the size has been slightly increased to accommodate the new hand-wound movement, with the case diameter now measuring 38.8mm and the thickness at 10.4mm. This slight increase in dimensions gives the new models a more contemporary feel while preserving the classic aesthetic of the 45GS.

One of the standout features of the new models is the dial design. While the dials appear solid at first glance, they feature a finely textured surface with a subtle metallic sheen. The SLGW005, in stainless steel, boasts a white eggshell dial, while the SLGW004 in gold offers a slightly warmer light cream hue. Both dials remain true to the original 45GS, with applied "Seiko" and "GS" logos at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, respectively. Printed text on the dial includes "HI-BEAT" and "36000," along with the Daini factory logo, paying homage to the model’s origins.

A Closer Look at the Movement: Caliber 9SA4

The most significant upgrade in the SLGW004 and SLGW005 is found in the movement. Both models are powered by the Caliber 9SA4, a manually wound, high-frequency movement that was first introduced by Grand Seiko earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. This movement represents a significant leap forward for Grand Seiko in terms of technical innovation.

The 9SA4 features a Dual Impulse escapement, which improves energy efficiency by allowing the balance wheel to receive impulses directly from the escape wheel in both directions. Additionally, the movement is equipped with two barrels, giving it a power reserve of 80 hours – a notable improvement over the original 45GS’s Caliber 4250, which had a much shorter power reserve.

One of the more whimsical touches in the 9SA4 movement is the small wagtail bird-shaped ratcheting click, a charming and unique detail that adds character to the watch. The movement also features a power reserve indicator on the back, with a heat-blued hand that tracks the remaining power.

Unlike the original 45GS, which featured a solid caseback, the new SLGW004 and SLGW005 showcase the movement through an exhibition caseback. This allows wearers to admire the intricate architecture and fine finishing of the 9SA4, which fills the caseback with its impressive 31mm diameter.

Limited Editions and Pricing

Both the SLGW004 and SLGW005 are limited editions. The stainless steel SLGW005 is limited to 1,200 pieces and priced at $9,700, while the yellow gold SLGW004 is limited to just 200 pieces and priced at $30,000. These limited runs ensure that the watches remain exclusive, appealing to collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Design Elements: Bridging the Old and the New

The SLGW004 and SLGW005 successfully blend the vintage charm of the original 45GS with modern advancements in watchmaking. The combination of sharp, defined lines, Zaratsu-polished case surfaces, and the subtle contrast between brushed and polished finishes creates a visually striking design. The watches maintain the minimalist elegance that has defined Grand Seiko’s design language for decades, while the updated proportions and new movement bring them firmly into the 21st century.

The decision to pair these watches with black crocodile straps is a nod to the luxurious nature of the models. However, given the slightly larger case size and the versatility of the design, these watches would also pair beautifully with more casual straps, such as calfskin or suede, allowing for a more relaxed, everyday look.

The Appeal of Modern Re-Creations

The release of the SLGW004 and SLGW005 highlights Grand Seiko’s ongoing commitment to honoring its heritage while pushing the boundaries of modern watchmaking. These re-creations offer collectors the opportunity to own a piece of history, updated with the latest technology and materials.

While some may critique the decision to include an exhibition caseback, breaking away from the traditional solid caseback of earlier models, the Caliber 9SA4’s intricate design and finishing deserve to be displayed. This movement represents a significant achievement for Grand Seiko, and its inclusion in these limited editions further enhances the appeal of the watches.

The slightly increased case size also reflects modern trends in watch design, making these models more suitable for contemporary tastes. Despite the larger dimensions, the watches remain comfortable on a variety of wrist sizes, thanks to the short lugs that ensure a snug fit.

Availability and Conclusion

The SLGW004 and SLGW005 will be available in November 2024. Given the limited nature of the releases, collectors and enthusiasts will likely need to act quickly to secure one of these exclusive timepieces.

Grand Seiko’s decision to recreate the 45GS in both stainless steel and yellow gold is a fitting tribute to the brand’s rich history. These watches not only pay homage to the past but also showcase the brand’s commitment to innovation and craftsmanship. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or new to Grand Seiko, the SLGW004 and SLGW005 offer a unique blend of vintage charm and modern sophistication.

For those seeking a classic, high-precision timepiece with historical significance, the SLGW004 and SLGW005 stand out as exceptional options. With their refined design, advanced movement, and limited availability, these models are sure to become coveted additions to any watch collection.

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