Gordon Ramsay Opens Lucky Cat at 22 Bishopsgate
Gordon Ramsay has taken dining in the capital to new heights – literally. His latest venture at 22 Bishopsgate, the tallest building in the City of London, introduces three dining experiences and a bar, all set against a breathtaking skyline. With the city stretching out below, I had my first taste of the offering at Lucky Cat during its inaugural lunch, and it left a lasting impression.
Located on the 60th floor, Lucky Cat is Ramsay’s pan-Asian concept, with established outposts in Mayfair and Manchester. Before even stepping inside, the sheer speed of the lift stood out. Covering ten floors in just five seconds, it’s one of the fastest in Europe.
Upon arrival, the 360-degree views steal the show. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame London’s landmarks – Tower Bridge, St Paul’s Cathedral, and The Shard, all seemingly shrunk to miniature scale by the altitude. Although in need of a glass of wine after travelling from mid-Kent, I couldn’t bring myself to sit down immediately. The room commanded a slow circuit, absorbing the shifting light as it played across the cityscape. It felt almost immersive, unlike anything I’d experienced in a restaurant before.
Once I finally took my seat, my attention turned to the interior. Designed by Russell Sage Studios, the space embraces the view rather than competes with it. Warm oranges in the bar contrast with sleek wooden tables, a sushi counter, and industrial steel piping across the ceiling. Dark finishes and subtle lighting create an atmosphere that shifts effortlessly from day to night, ensuring the skyline remains the true focal point. As dusk fell, the city lights took over, and the resident DJ began to spin, setting the mood. It was a restaurant I found difficult to leave – I simply wanted to stay, absorbing it all until the last light had faded.
For those familiar with Lucky Cat’s other locations, this iteration offers more than just a new address. The menu introduces over 30 new dishes, adding a fresh dynamic. Ramsay himself calls the project a personal milestone. “London is where my journey began, and watching it grow into a global food capital has been incredible. This launch is about taking our most iconic concepts and elevating them – literally. To have all this under one roof, alongside a space where people can refine their cooking skills, is truly special.”
You can opt for the express lunch menu – three courses for a very reasonable ￡35 – or indulge in a free-flowing weekend brunch. We chose à la carte, unable to resist exploring the full scope of the menu. Ordering for our table of four to share allowed us to taste a broad spectrum of the menu to really get a feel for the food. It turned out to be a wise choice as when the dishes arrive (in clusters) I really wanted to try them all.?
The Gillardeau oysters, known for their creamy texture and briny sweetness, arrived topped with nashi pear, cucumber mignonette, and a shiso oil that enhanced their natural flavours. At a restaurant like this, I want my palate to be impressed, and these exceeded expectations.?
Next came the Wagyu Gunkan, where buttery Wagyu, rich and meltingly soft, was wrapped in nori and Moromi miso. The miso added depth without overwhelming the beef’s natural umami. The tuna tataki followed – a delicate yet punchy dish where the lightly seared tuna retained its velvety texture.
More Wagyu arrived in the form of maki, beautifully marbled beef wrapped in perfectly seasoned rice. But the bonito-fried duck leg bao buns stole the show. The branded bao was airy yet substantial, the ideal vessel for the deeply flavoured, crisped duck. Bonito flakes added a subtle smokiness, tying everything together in one absurdly good bite. The presentation was theatre – the dish arrived with a generous portion of bao buns stacked over a plate of duck, which was shredded tableside. It looked impressive but tasted even better, with plenty to go around.
To balance the indulgence, we ordered the miso aubergine. Caramelised to perfection, it had a surprisingly crisp skin that contrasted with the silky flesh beneath. The miso glaze and sesame seeds provided a deep savouriness, making it one of the standout vegetable dishes.
The generously sized spiced lamb chops could have been overpowering, but they were perfectly judged. A bold chilli sauce and tofu cream coated the outside, delivering just enough heat to make an impact without overwhelming the palate. Here, it felt perfectly acceptable – if not encouraged – to pick them up by the bone. Eating this way just makes sense, and few things in life are more satisfying. Maybe I am just primeval…
We briefly stepped away from Japanese flavours with the Thai-baked stone bass, which for me was a standout dish. Delicate and flaky, it soaked up the punchy aromatics of lemongrass and kaffir lime perfectly. The sauce had the ideal viscosity, packing so much flavour that it left me wanting more. In retrospect, it acted as a palate refresher, preparing me for the final indulgences.
The Alaskan king crab leg was pure decadence – generous, sweet, and meaty, with ponzu butter adding tang and coconut crumb lending sweetness and texture. We enjoyed this alongside an extraordinary Japanese Wagyu A5 sirloin that truly melted in the mouth. These were the ultimate treats, but life is too short not to indulge sometimes.
For dessert, the Sobacha and Honeycomb Lucky Cat was the showstopper. Brought to the table whole, the chocolate cat had hot sauce poured over it before being split into quarters, revealing grilled pear and miso caramel inside. Impossible to resist, it was the perfect Instagram dish.
Wanting to finish on something lighter, we chose the yuzu and passionfruit soufflé, which was feather-light, bursting with the sharp citrus tang of yuzu and passionfruit. A scoop of ice cream nestled in the centre provided a satisfying contrast of hot and cold.
The Lucky Cat Bar, under Julian Cox’s direction, is a destination in itself. Signature drinks include the house-favourite Lucky Negroni, where you can customise your drink with six choices of gin, bitters, and vermouth, resulting in 216 possible combinations. Being a whisky lover, I had to try the Old Fashioned, a deceptively simple cocktail that’s often ruined by too much sweetness. Here, it was executed flawlessly, served over a large square ice cube embossed with the Lucky Cat logo.
The highlight, however, was the Chikyu, a blue sake-style cup filled with Malfy gin infused with wasabi, vegan foam, matcha syrup, pistachio liqueur, and lime juice. It was exceptional – a drink I’ll be returning for.
Naturally, the wine list includes some of the world’s most sought-after bottles – Salon, Dom Pérignon, and first-growth Bordeaux from great vintages. More modest budgets are also catered for, with options such as André Brunel C?tes du Rh?ne and a strong selection by the glass.
The atmosphere is just right. With views as stunning as this, it’s hard not to be impressed the moment you walk in. The restaurant had a definite buzz – enough atmosphere to drown out the next table’s conversation, but not so loud that you couldn’t hear your own. This balance is important.
With a late-night licence extending until 3 a.m. on select nights, Lucky Cat is set to become one of the city’s most sought-after spots for drinks. And for those arriving via Liverpool Street Station, a complimentary chauffeur service runs during peak dining hours, ensuring a seamless journey to and from 22 Bishopsgate.