Goodbye, two letter fiber codes!
For more than 15 years, ArahWeave used two letter A-Z code for entering fiber composition of the yarns. But now more and more customers want to add their own fiber and three or more letter codes, for example CDP for Cationic Dyeable Polyester. We have added support for a simple XML fiber definition, ArahneFiberImport.xml, which you place in your XML directory, and ArahWeave will support the new codes.
It is the manufacturer's responsibility by law to report correct fiber composition. Many times it is very difficult to give such a report for fil coupe fabrics. ArahWeave will do the correct calculation for you, if you enable fil coupe simulation. See how both the weight as the composition changes dramatically after cutting of floats.
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7 年Very good explanation. Thank you so much!
manager at Arahne, d.o.o.
7 年Fil coupe is a special fabric, where some threads are intentionally left floating by the weave construction, and then they are cut off by shearing machine or by hand. In Chinese, it is called 剪花. It is used commonly in shawls made in Armitsar, India, where threads are floating both in warp and in weft, and cutting is done by hand. Nowadays it is also common to have fil coupe in shirting, even in formal shirts, here is one example by Etro: https://www.mrporter.com/en-hk/mens/etro/white-fil-coupe-cotton-shirt/983189 In other segments of weaving, you will find fil coupe in woman's clothing, upholstery, and curtains. Fil coupe is relatively complicated, since in design phase you must think about the proper distance between motifs, so that shearing machine will be able to cut the fabric. You must also add some tight weave on the border of the motif, so that threads are not completely pulled out during cutting and later use. ArahWeave has special tools to make creation of fil coupe fabrics easier, since the software adds the contour weave automatically.
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7 年What is fil coupe cutting?