GO EAST

This article in National Geographic Traveller (UK) is a result of our hosting Matt Dutile (Writer & Photographer) in Bhutan

In the remote eastern corner of the tiny Himalayan Nation of Bhutan Lies a Land and Little visited by travellers. Those who make the journey here will discover a unique region of soaring mountains, imposing monastic fortresses and diverse cultures.

A Buddhist kingdom lying in the Himalayas between China and India, Bhutan has some 700,000 residents, most of whom live in the cities of Thimphu and Paro in the west. The six dzongkhags (districts) farthest east are some of the least populated areas of the country, and it takes at least two days by car over winding roads to reach them. This is a region of unique cultures and traditions and a great place to try local Bhutanese cuisine, such as ema datshi (a fiery combination of chillies and cheese) over rice. It’s home to swaying paddies and deep green valleys, like the one overlooking the Dangme Chhu River, which is lined by stone distance markers for drivers. A particular highlight is the 16th-century naktsheng, or traditional manor house, in Dungkar village, which is now a cultural museum looked after by red-robed monks.

From the East-West Highway bisecting Bhutan, a single-lane road snakes along the Kuri Chhu River past sub-tropical bamboo forests, fear-inducing suspension bridges and small villages where young boys play games using large metal darts. Little chorten (temples) line clefts in crags along the road or sit behind mural- painted gates and are filled with prayer wheels as tokens to remember loved ones. A day’s travel along the road lies Khoma, famous for its production of kishuthara, a type of patterned silk kira (the long skirt that forms part of the national dress worn by Bhutanese women). They’re crafted on looms in the weavers’ homes or in collective textile workshops around the village and are so intricate, they can take more than a year to make.

The town of Trashigang serves as the gateway for travels around the east, each district moving outwards from it like the spokes of a bicycle wheel. Vendors in small roadside stands hawk everything from fizzy drinks, water and crisps to sandals and Pokémon trading cards. The region’s only hotels, with warm showers and large beds, are found here, too. It’s a welcome respite from life on the road, but visiting this part of the country is at its most memorable when venturing beyond the town. It’s then that travellers can have such unique experiences as staying with a local family, spending frosty evenings watching the Milky Way passing over the gates of a temple or simply admiring the homemade patterned jackets of Brokpa women in Sakteng. Ultimately, it’s the people that make this part of the world such a distinct place to explore

This article is written by Matt Dutile. He is a New York-based photographer and Explorer.