GHANA.....Must Go!

For me, Ghana is and has always been the country of dreams. Even in less happy times since independence from Britain in 1957, it was a country of aspiration, with a population that would travel across Africa and the wider world, packing their hopes and dreams along with anything else they could carry.

During a period of prosperity in Nigeria in the 1970s, Ghanaian migrants were attracted westwards to seek work; then in 1983 they were given a deadline to leave their host country and had to pack everything they owned into oversized checkered bags. Border crossings were restricted and they ended up being stranded for weeks, while the bags they carried became synonymous with the phrase “Ghana must go!”

Strangely, those bags have since become a symbol of style, coveted by the international fashion community. Louis Vuitton has even released a “GMG”-inspired luxury range. And today the words “Ghana Must Go” are a slogan designed to encourage visitors to the country.?

As the daughter of Ghanaian immigrants I long ago decided that I too “must go” to Ghana as often as possible to fulfill my Ghanaian dream. It’s a vision articulated by the first Ghanaian president, of turning a colony into country of wonder that the world would flock to see. Back in 1957 Dr Kwame Nkrumah was part of a “big six” of Ghanaians whose relentless pursuit of freedom would help make Ghana the first sub-Saharan African nation to gain independence from a European power. In his maiden speech, Nkrumah made an impassioned plea to the people of this new nation: “I am depending on the millions of the country, and the chiefs and the people, to help me to reshape the destiny of this country.?We are prepared to pick it up and make it a nation that will be respected by every nation in the world.”

Second-generation Ghanaian immigrants, who like me share a Ghanaian and British identity, personify the continuing connection the two countries have enjoyed since independence. In Ghana, the idea of welcome is paramount. The word for it in Twi (the main language here other than English) is Akwabaa. (Don’t worry if you don’t remember it:?you will see it everywhere.) On my current trip, as ever the spirit of welcome started the moment my six-hour flight from Heathrow touched down, as the Ghanaian passengers began a rapturous round of applause for the captain – not because the flight had been turbulent, but simply as a way of saying thank you.?

On this trip I decided to enlist the help of some of the country’s most in-the-know influencers and get their take on the local must-sees, from art and culture to fashion and food, entertainment and nightlife. Most of the clans of Ghana are matriarchal, and this female influence feeds through to the world of business and commerce. According to the Mastercard Index of Women’s Entrepreneurship (MIWE), Ghana has the highest percentage of female business owners in the world. First to take me under her wing was beauty entrepreneur and founder of the Shea Butter brand R&R Luxury, Valerie Obaze. Like myself Obaze is a product of both Britain and Ghana and is part of a new wave of entrepreneurs re-establishing the cultural and commercial ties between the two nations. Valerie took me to Viva Boutique (the Harvey Nichols of Ghana), which is owned by local beauty guru Sasha Okoh. A fashion hub for the Ghanaian elite, it’s the perfect place to find original pieces by African luxury designers such as Christy Brown and Maki Oh (a favourite of Michelle Obama, Lupita Nyong’o and Beyonce.

One of the best things about Ghanaian culture is its cuisine, a rich blend of spicy tomato-based dishes fused with exotic flavours, which allow for a wide variety of tastes and textures.?Each region of the country is known for a dish, and with over 50 dialects in the country, cuisine is something that unites the various different regions and clans. The staple dish, however, is Jollof rice, a one-pot rice dish that is the subject of a longstanding West African rivalry (Nigerians, Ivorians and Ghanaians all proclaim theirs is the best. Obviously, I’m biased.)?

?Azmera Restaurant is one of the most popular lunch spots. Ghanaians love a buffet and Azmera has one of the biggest selections in the city, with at least 40 local dishes on offer. Founded by another female entrepreneur Afua Krobea Asante, a charismatic and impeccably dressed doyen who is often on hand to greet guests, Azmera has a family like feel and the staff talk you through each item, explaining the ingredients and preparation. Alternatively, try Midunu, where chef Selassie Atadika delivers a unique dining experience that takes place in a spectacular villa situated in residential Tesano, on the outskirts of Accra. Using local and seasonal ingredients, along with some of the more traditional grains, part of Chef Selassie’s mission is to reintroduce and bring new value to some of the overlooked and forgotten ingredients from the region. Her handmade artisanal chocolates are made with the finest locally sourced cocoa and bring a unique African twist to luxury chocolate.?

At the other end of the scale are the “Chop bars” where local workers eat. They are all very informal, but what they lack in décor is make up in food portions. Perhaps the most popular is Asanka, which has been a fixture of the Osu area (Accra’s commercial district), for over 20 years. If you want a real local experience this is the place: try the Red Red (beans stew) and plantains.

Whenever I’m in Accra, I make a point of stopping by the iconic Makola Market. Market places are the engine room of Ghanaian female entrepreneurship. Known as “Market Queens” these wise-cracking women contribute to the bulk of income from the country’s service sector. Makola is a hive of activity where women, old and young, balance all manner of goods on their heads - often with a baby strapped to their backs (no working mums guilt here!). This is where all the action takes place – and it’s also where you can buy your own “Ghana Must GO” bag.

In recent years we have seen an explosion of African portraiture art in manner that no one could have predicted and Ghana is perhaps at the epicentre of new creative movement. Amoako Boafo has taken the art world by storm with his poignant depiction of the black form, represented by the formidable Mariane Ibrahim, herself a barrier breaker whose galleries in Chicago and more recently Paris has made her one of the few black multinational gallery owners in the world. Ghana has become the go-to nation for black portraiture; Kwesi Botchway, Otis Quaicoe and Patrick Quarm are just some of the artistic luminaries who have collectors queuing in their droves. Last year Boafo, Botchway and Quaicoe joined forces on an eagerly anticipated group show to celebrate the fifth anniversary of Ghana’s 1957 Gallery.

Drawing on historical parallels I find this renaissance of African art particularly exciting.?After all, the renaissance period with its focus on art and the celebration of Europe’s shared classical heritage that saw the emergence of Europe from the medieval period towards development and global ascendancy.?Art helped redefine European identity, what was visible and what was possible.?However, for Africa, the audience is now global, and stage is greater therefore so are the possibilities.?Africa has so often been portrayed from the outside as one monolith of blackness in effect masking its diversity; it’s creativity and potential in the eyes of many.?However, with the platform to create art and imagery this generation of artists from the Continent are creating different narratives and visions through portrait art and challenging out-dated Western ideas of the Continent. Since the “Year of the Return” celebration in 2019 which saw over a million tourists visit the country to enjoy the rich culture the country has to offer! Ghana has become the place to visit. ?

So now instead of being a country people leave in order to become successful, Ghana is now a creative destination in its own right, a place where visitors can leave their own struggles behind. Perhaps Nkrumah’s legacy is finally being realised through current the President Nana Akufo Addo, as Ghana leads the way into a new golden age for Africa.

See link below for more info on visiting Ghana:

www.ghanahighcommissionuk.com