Gentlemen of Bombay - Part 3
I recently organised a pow-wow for people who are interested in Horology - The study of time (and in today's context, it refers to the love of time pieces). Myriad of discussions we had suggest that men will always love the following: 1) Politics 2) Money, and 3) Style. It is quite uncommon to see men coming together to just celebrate themselves, unshackled by any responsibility and overhang of other worries, at least in the Indian context. Yes we do meet, greet and have friendly jaunts, but men congregating to celebrate style, and deep passions is what I refer to. I am keen to drift and keep the dialogue with the reader to only 2 of the deep interests: Sartorial style and Horology. Plus, it makes great sense to appreciate some of the work being done in India: Indian entrepreneurs are doing to create world class brands. NAPPA DORI and BANGALORE WATCH CO. come to my mind. But before that:
1.Sartorial style - I remember my father wearing 3-piece suits in the winters of North India. He would don a crisp 3 piece and launch himself to his office (Indian Railways). Peculiar was that most of the officers wore suits, then. I think the sense of dressing has come off its peak, when speaking on Indian men. 80s and 90s were the glory years of Indian men dressing, by my memory.
I am quite keen to revive the culture. Bombay weather doesn't offer much, but despite that I think there is a lot of play available now - fabric manufacturers have pushed boundaries and have created beautiful fabrics, which are all weather. To name a few such manufacturers: #VITALEBARBERISCANONICO #ZEGNA #CHARLESCLAYTON #HUDDERSFIELD #LOROPIANA #DRAGO #DELFINO and you immediately figure that weather shouldn't be deal breaker for sartorial dressing. Or for that matter dressing that really impresses.
2. INDIA - the Sartorial 50s-90s: India really needs to re-visit the culture it saw in the 50s - 90s. We had a lot of good tailors (although it is a vanishing breed) but it isn't too difficult to find great pair of hands even today. It is just a matter of looking away from "readymade" and possibilities and fun are limitless.
On this occasion of Gents Pow-wow by @deeepaktomar (@detospeaks) and @saroshmody, men really took it upon themselves to show up in their true colour; exhibit their best side of being a 'Gentlemen'. The mills I have mentioned above offer great blends of linen+silk+wool which are amazing even for a tropical weather. It comes to matter of choice, isn't it? As a matter of fact, if one gets into the understanding of fabrics, the sourcing of wool, patterns, how various fabrics drape different body shapes, it gets really interesting. But the tech entrepreneurs have really set a different benchmark - we are okay with a Blue Jeans and a black crew neck. I think people are really missing out on a lot of fun!
3. HOROLOGY - I haven't seen the kind of collections that I witnessed in this pow-wow. One of the collections had a #Bovet #JaegerLeCoultre AMVOX Tourbillion, #PIAGET Chrono, and the No.1 of limited edition #GirargPerregaux WorldTimer with #Bombay on the watch. Watch lovers will note that there are only a few time pieces which have #Bombay or #Calcutta on world timers. The 30 mins difference doesn't do any good to us I reckon, I think we (INDIA) just had to be different. An all gold #RogerDubuis took much attention too. The 2nd Watch collection spoke of a true watch aficionado and someone who knows the craft. It had everything from #SPEAKMARIN #HMT #ROLEX #LINDEWEDERLIN #MOSER&Cie, #JaegerLeCountlre and the revered #AudemarsPiguet etc.
4. Classic Brands need more Imagination: But above all "things", the most fun is to express. Be different and yet find company in doing so. Another subject of great interest to me is: how should the classic brands (mills, ShoeMakers, Accessory brands) approach the audience. One of the missing pieces I see is: lack of targeting new customers. Brands seem to market only to the converts. There doesn't seem any great effort at getting new audience into the influence and build the business further. Exceptions exist - Zegna is looking to do suits which are travel friendly, light, reversible, etc. But such stories are limited. Imagination is really much needed, to my understanding. And if the brands aren't aggressively looking to build business further, I think they are preparing to be relegated to ignominy. I don't think everyone is going to be bought over by @Kering, @Richemont or @LVMH, although, in the current scene, it will be a great outcome for names struggling to find sustained growth. @Moncler doesn't need to worry, they have takers!
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5 年Great share Deepak Tomar? ?Wish Indian leaders could 'Boss Up' their wardrobe. There still is a gap in corporate Indian leaders to achieve that balance between their grooming, sartorial sense, and attitude.
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5 年Looking dapper, Deepak. External persona matters, even while cutting mundane business deals
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5 年Interesting read Deepak!
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5 年Very refreshing content and much needed topic for Indian men.