The Full Moon Paddle – a short story about mental endurance and darkness through three of Sweden's archipelagos of over 6,000 islands

Part 1 of 3 – The evening was perfect, until it wasn’t

The evening weather was perfect – clear sky, gentle breeze, placid water. The temperature was cool but comfortable. The first two hours felt great. The glorious moon rose from the horizon with brilliant stars lighting the way. At our first pit stop, sleep was creeping up. It was 22.00. Our decadent chocolate and hot lemon tea were little help. Onwards for another two hours. Erik navigated past hundreds of islands that melted together in a harmonious silhouette. The moon was high now. As she rose, the temperature dropped to 10 C (50 F). We reached the dinner pit stop for food and a change of clothes. It was midnight. Lucidity was waning and I struggled to process the hot food, but Erik encouraged me. Onwards for another two hours. I focused on Erik’s beacon. He was like a firefly floating against the moonlight. The approach to Harstena was the most difficult. I slowed to 2 km/hr. and fell asleep twice. We glided quietly into Harstena’s passage. The island was a sleeping giant. Another two hours – the moon started her gradual descent as side wind picked up. A brief opportunity to draft Erik during a short downwind section came with great relief. Erik encouraged me, “Breakfast island is close. You’re doing great! Just follow the silhouette. It’s beyond there.” I knew that meant another hour. The sun was rising behind us. My head slumped forward a few times. Paddling was mechanical at that point. I moved in the direction of Erik’s voice to Gubb? Kupa where we witnessed a celestial performance – the sun extended her mandarin veil as the moon bowed down. I inhaled breakfast and fell asleep on the soft moss. Our last stretch was filled with morning light revealing the islands in stark detail. Erik picked up the pace and I fought to keep the draft until the end. 8 hours of continuous paddling in the darkness made this one of the toughest endurance events of my life. I can’t wait for next year to do it all over again.

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