From Top To Base - A Detailed Dive Into The Notes Of Fragrance
Alpha Aromatics
We're a leading fragrance manufacturing & scent designing company, creating & supplying scents to international brands.
Perfume creation is a symphony in its own right as it is a composition that arouses the senses and awakens new dimensions and perspectives.
It is an art form that has a language and soul all its own, and in its infinite mystery and varieties, its essence is a masterful blend of elements, chemistry and evaporation rates that evoke our deepest sentiments and emotions.
The profound power of fragrance lies in its ability to connect with forgotten memories from the past.
Like the notes of a musical symphony, perfume notes serve a similar purpose.
They are the bulwark of every formulation and they weave an olfactory tapestry of mood and sensations.
The Three Main Notes And How They Interact
For master perfumers, every perfume note is selected for its particular volatility, which concerns how quickly it evaporates.
Top notes create an immediate sensory impression and last from 5 to 30 minutes. Most are citrus based such as: fresh lemon; lush orange; sharp lime; uplifting grapefruit or herbs like fragrant basil.
Middle or heart notes are considered the true soul of a fragrance.
They are rich and mellow, emerge after the head notes disappear and are known to last for several hours.
Their purpose is to develop the character of the scent and mark the unfolding of its unique complexity.
They are often floral or fruity in nature such as:intense and intoxicating jasmine; musky red rose or velvety peach.
The base notes or dry down are meant to stabilize the fragrance.
They are the first to be created, the last to appear and they can linger for several hours up to a whole day.
They are often, heavy, warm, and somewhat sweet or musky.
Some examples include: creamy sandalwood; lush, elegant vanilla; erotic musk and green, earthy vetiver.
Choosing Perfumes Based on Notes
To each his own, as the saying goes, and it also applies to perfume selection. Preferring some scents over others is often the emotional cue for the purchase of a fragrance.
Many believe that scents adapt to the wearer and suit different moods and personalities.
Citrus, for example, is energetic and cheerful; floral is affectionate and happy; chypre is potent and authentic; ambery (formerly Oriental) is preferred for sensual, seductive moods and woody for lovers of the great outdoors and adventure.
Obviously a totally subjective choice, not only do some people prefer lighter to heavier and more intense notes, each and every fragrance will smell differently on everyone due to personal body chemistry and ph levels.
Perfume is an essential accessory and the answer to finding the right one lies in taking the time to do one’s homework, which in turn translates into sampling and exploring diverse fragrances.
Some questions to ask oneself that can help include:
Why Does Perfume Composition Matter?
Perfume composition matters because?the specific, unique fusion of facets will determine a scent’s evolution and distinct scent profile.
It tells an olfactory tale via its progression of notes, which in tandem makes each scent distinct and personalized.
One rule of the road to remember in perfume formulation is that less is always more.
Layering is the magical tool that perfumers use to find the exact balance of notes and prevent one from overwhelming all the others.
Perfumers spend years studying the molecular structure of scents because the overall composition is integral to how long a fragrance will last.
Molecules of lower volatility evaporate slowly which means they will remain longer on skin. These molecules include large, dense, resinous amalgams such as: dark, potent and intoxicating patchouli; creamy sandalwood; lush vanilla; warm, honeyed amber and erotic musk.
Perfumers are supreme artists who understand how to integrate all the elements so that they will serve to promote scent development and longevity.
They are also known to layer the same note at different evaporation rates, which embraces continuity as the fragrance evolves.
Expert composition, however, is so much more than just a matter of molecules. It is their character and chemical interaction with other elements that create a cohesive formula.
The Olfactory (or Fragrance) Pyramid And The Fragrance Wheel
French perfumer, Jean Carles, (1892-1966) invented the olfactory pyramid. The term, olfactory pyramid, was first used back in 1889 by Aime Guerlain to describe her formulation, Jicky.
This structure includes all of the various notes of a fragrance that define its character and helps to convey how notes can change with the passage of time.
While the olfactory pyramid is still used as a marketing tool, some perfumers believe it has lost its true relevance, as compositions have become more complex and intricate across the decades.
The fragrance wheel is an expansion of the pyramid that was developed in 1983 by French perfumer, Michael Edwards.
It is a circular diagram, which includes the classification of notes as parts of specific fragrance families with similar scents, which he ranked according to their volatility and evaporation level, ranging from the lightest to the most long lasting.
Scents that appear next to each other on the wheel share common aspects and tend to pair well when blended.
His visualized classification reflected his belief that perfume components represent the essence of all scent formulations and were very much like the colors found on an artist’s fine palette. In his own words:
“Perfumery is an art, not a science, as many seem to believe. A scientific background is not necessary for the perfumer; scientific knowledge may even sometimes prove an obstacle to the freedom required in perfume creation. To achieve an agreeable balance, fragrance notes are classified as top notes, heart notes and base notes. These notes make up a perfume’s accord, its character.”
Some Common Myths About Perfume Notes
The following represent eight of the most persistent myths about perfume.
Perfume Smells The Same On Everyone
This is false as everyone’s skin type and ph level (body temperature) is unique. The chemicals in our bodies affect how we perceive scent, and when they blend with notes of a fragrance, a multitude of sensations occur.
Stronger Perfumes Last Longer
The duration of a perfume has nothing to do with all to do with its strength. The determination of how long a scent lasts is dependent on a number of factors; including: composition; concentration; skin type and the surrounding climate.
Natural Notes In Perfumes Are Better
Technically, this is true, because the natural notes utilized by perfumers have the capability to create scents that are deep and rich, more consistent and longer lasting. Synthetic ingredients, however, can be more eco-friendly, and are less likely to cause skin irritation.?
Expensive Perfumes Are Better Quality
This is not necessarily so, as more expensive perfumes don't always smell better or last longer than cheaper fragrances.?It is the quality of the notes, the complexity of the olfactory profile and the expertise of the perfumer that determines the ultimate caliber of a fragrance. Brand obsession can and does often cloud accurate judgment about a scent’s genuine status.
The More Perfume That is Applied, The Stronger It Will Be
This is false. The true strength of a perfume depends not on how much is applied but rather to its composition and how the chosen notes will evolve over time. Too much at once can be overwhelming. Perfumers recommend re-applying perfume during the day to revive its presence gracefully.
Perfume Goes Out Of Fashion
Although in perfumery trends do occur as often as they do in the world of fashion, there are classics that remain as treasured today as they were on the first day they were created. Some examples include: Acqua di Cologne formulated in 1916 and Chanel No5 from 1921.
Rubbing The Wrists Helps To Fix The Perfume
This is completely false. The wrist is often favored as a spot for perfume application because it is a pulse point and exudes more heat. It does not, however, have anything at all to do with helping the fragrance to set. Paradoxically, rubbing wrists together can help the perfume evaporate at a faster rate.
Unisex Scents
The association of scents with gender has evolved over the years via the intricate power of marketing and the fact that there are potent historical and cultural aspects that are linked to either males or females, even though these elements differ in various parts of the world.
In the West, flowers are more associated with women's fragrances, but in the East, they are also found in scents developed for men.
In reality, there is no connection to gender in the world of perfume, and it is only via extended usage and the popularity of particular ingredients in certain fragrances that makes anyone think otherwise.
In Conclusion
Whether one is an expert enthusiast or just a casual user, the allure of fine perfume is pure magic as it evolves on the skin.
Not only that, creations are endless because ingredients are as infinite as they are beautiful.
An understanding of how the notes interact sparks the imagination and inspiration, which lies everywhere about, just waiting to be tapped by the world’s fine perfumers.
Experimentation and supreme patience render both creativity and innovation. Understanding how fragrance is made and developed enhances horizons of knowledge.
Everyone can learn to explore the realm of scent creation and get lost in our dynamic world, which can serve as an endless canvas.