From India to the World – Lungi / Real Madras or the Madras Checks

Ancient India made significant contributions to the world in various fields, including mathematics, science, philosophy, and spirituality. Many of these contributions have had a profound impact on the world. For example, the concept of zero and the decimal system, which were developed in ancient India, are now used in mathematics and accounting around the world. The practice of yoga, which originated in ancient India, has become a popular form of exercise and stress relief in the Western world. While the concepts of Zero, Yoga, and Ayurveda are perhaps better-known contributions from India, there are some lesser-known contributions from India that have gained global recognition. In this series of articles, we will be telling you about these lesser-known contributions of India to the world.

Madras checks, originating from the quaint village of Madraspatnam (now Chennai), boast a captivating history marked by intriguing twists and turns. Dating back to the 12th century, these vibrant checks were initially hand loomed as 36" square handkerchiefs by local weavers using soft fibres extracted from native trees' "tip-skin." Adorned with bright check patterns via block printing, these handkerchiefs functioned as a garment akin to a sarong, known as a Lungi, worn around the waist and draping down below the knees.

The journey of the plaid lungi transcended continents, evolving from bottom wear in India to a headscarf in the Middle-East and Africa by the early 13th century. However, it was the arrival of European colonizers that propelled Madras checks into mass production and global export.

With the Dutch and subsequently the British East India Company recognizing the allure of Madras checks, the fabric's global journey commenced in the 17th century. The British established a trading post in Madras and incentivized Indian weavers' settlement in the area, fostering mass production and export.

The “Real Madras” or the “Authentic Madras” fabric, recognized by different names across the globe, gained prominence through British trade. In Africa, it was termed 'Injri,' holding significant cultural value and becoming intertwined with local customs, gifted during significant life events.

Authentic Madras checks epitomized sustainability, featuring identical patterns on both sides and employing indigenous short-staple cotton yarns, carded by hand with visible slubs. The shift from block printing to dyeing yarns with vegetable dyes enhanced the fabric's texture and aesthetics, reminiscent of Scottish Tartans due to their plaid resemblance. Despite the influence, Madras checks retained an earthy allure owing to the vegetable dyes.

?The fabric found its way to America through diverse routes, including a notable contribution by Elihu Yale, whose grant of Madras checks to a Connecticut school led to the christening of Yale University. Madras fabrics soon permeated American fashion, gaining traction and becoming a preppy fashion statement by the early 20th century.

Guaranteed To Bleed

In 1958, a crucial event unfolded in the fashion world when Brooks Brothers, despite warnings about the potential colour bleeding in American washing machines with strong chemical detergents, procured 10,000 yards of Madras fabric from Captain C.P. Nair, a prominent exporter. Ignoring the caution, the fabric was introduced into the American market.

Soon after, complaints flooded in as consumers experienced the fabric bleeding colours after washing. However, this unexpected issue was ingeniously transformed into a marketing coup. A prominent figure in advertising, David Ogilvy, coined the memorable tagline "guaranteed to bleed" to reframe the bleeding of colours not as a defect but as a distinctive trait of the fabric.

Brooks Brothers capitalized on this uniqueness, marketing the fabric as "entirely hand-woven from yarns dyed with native vegetable colourings." The advertising pitch embraced the bleeding as a feature that, when washed with mild soap in warm water, resulted in distinctively muted and subdued colourings. This innovative marketing strategy effectively turned what could have been seen as a flaw into a desirable and fashionable characteristic.

The promotion of Madras as "GUARANTEED TO BLEED" became a sensation, captivating the attention of consumers who sought out the fabric for its individuality. The fashion industry embraced this bleeding characteristic, and the fabric's popularity surged. This fabric was popularly called “ Bleeding Madras”

This subsequent marketing genius behind the "guaranteed to bleed" campaign transformed this potential flaw into a defining feature, catapulting Madras checks to unprecedented popularity in the fashion world.

From its modest beginnings in rural India to gracing ramps in collections by global brands like Ralph Lauren, Gucci, and Hermes, Madras checks have transcended time, evolving into a symbol of status and affluence. Its journey showcases a fabric's transformation from a local garb to a globally coveted fashion icon, transcending cultural boundaries and leaving an indelible mark in the fashion industry's history.