Forty Years Ago - Bye, Bye Beirut (Lebanon).
Franz Kratschmer
![Franz Kratschmer]()
Franz Kratschmer
Retired at United Nations, Foreign Policy Adviser, Author, Korean Peninsula analyst.
Due to the ongoing crisis in the Middle East some foreign embassies have recommended to their citizens leaving the country as long as Beirut International Airport operates. This reminds me on similar events some 40 years ago.
I was assigned as United Nations official to the U. N. Truce Supervision Organisation (UNTSO) - Military Observer Group Beirut from April 1983 to September 1984. Our core staff at the Hazmieh office included sixteen UN Military Observers, eight international and a few local staff. It was located just a few hundred metres downhill from the Defence Ministry and opposite the US Ambassador's residence. From the balcony a lovely and sometimes dangerous view to South Beirut and the Mediterranean Sea with foreign battleships cruising. During the outbreak of hostilities not a very safe place. At that time, Israel's military were still present in some parts of Beirut and on the mountains east of the capital.
ARMED FORCES AND MILITIAS. Generally seen, it was the hotchpotch of domestic and foreign military units, the various opposing militia groups and those difficult to identify. There was the Multinational Force observing the withdrawal of PLO units. Four countries contributed to the Force - the United States, the United Kingdom, France and Italy. Syrian forces still occupied the northern and eastern part of Lebanon; including it's backed militias. This means six foreign military contingents were present at that time. Not to be forgotten the Navies and Air Forces. The US Battleship New Jersey fired its 16-inch shells into the mountains east of Beirut. The young Lebanese Army was divided into the Christian and Moslem units. Among the various militia groups were those supported by Syria, the Druze under Walid Djumblat, some supported by Israel, the Hizbollah in Chiyah and South Beirut. Some militias on the foothills near Zahle in the Bekaa valley just to be recognised by the Ku-Klux-Klan headcover.
PEACE, TROUBLES AND WAR LIKE CONDITIONS. Upon arrival in Beirut the airport was open and I took up residence with other colleagues in the mountain village of Broummana at the Country Club. From the Hotel at 1,100m above sea level two interesting views. Eastwards to the mountains and valleys controlled by the Syrian backed militias and where the shootings and shelling usually originated. Westward down to Beirut and the Mediterranean Sea. After two weeks of peace my colleagues and I enjoyed dinner at one Lebanese restaurant in Broummana. In the still far distance, some shooting and exchange of artillery fire could be heard. The waiters kindly asked us a few minutes later to leave. The dangerous noises came closer and closer. Upon arrival at the hotel down to the basement for two hours as the Christian town was the target. Upon leaving after midnight, three of our UN cars were in flames and some damage to the building. One military observer patrol evacuated us to the office and later to one hotel in west Beirut. Luckily, I was able to rent one apartment near our office a few days later. Whenever small arms fire broke out, I met with my neighbours in the basement just waiting until silence fell in.
On October 23, 1983 two bomb blasts shook Beirut. The suicide attacks on the US Marines Headquarters at Beirut Airport in 1983 and the building were French paratroopers were stationed resulted in the withdrawal of the Multinational Force. More than 290 US Marines and 60 French Paratroopers were killed. A few days later a had to travel to the Airport for collecting our mail. Passing at the hangars filled with the coffins of the US Marines was the most saddening moment in my life. This tragic event resulted in the withdrawal of the MNF.
Troubles announced by radio. One day, our local driver Nimer and I were doing banking business in West Beirut in the morning. All of a sudden, Nimer was listening to some announcements on the radio. He just asked for returning to the office as quickly as possible. The radio information advised of some shooting and shelling to begin within one hour and children should be picked up from schools. And it happened. What about our supplies? Water for office use had to be collected by trailer from a house just a few hundred metres down the Highway. This was usually done with my colleague Alfred from Barbados. Fuel for our cars and the generator as more problematic as the only fuel station accepting the UN payment condition was located in West Beirut. During shooting incidents a very quick assignment as the roads were empty. We drove with UNTSO 795, one Dodge vehicle, loaded with jerricans the station. Fill them up and check which route is safe. Returning from such trips was more than a delight.
LEAVING AND RETURNING TO BEIRUT. Was it for duty or off duty purposes you never knew until the date of your travel the route and by what means it would happen. Our UNTSO Headquarters was located in Jerusalem from where we received our payments, mail and other supplies. At times of peace this was done by the weekly UN supply flights and involved travel to Beirut International Airport. The shortest route was from Hazmieh though vacated Chiah district where Shiite militias stopped our vehicles and offered Islamic Newspapers; purchase on "voluntary basis". At times of tensions, I or my colleagues had to travel to the Syrian capital Damascus on the Beirut-Damascus highway passing though Israeli, Syrian and other checkpoints. Down to the Bekaa Valley border and finally arriving in peaceful Damascus. When there was fighting the Highway was closed an alternative route from the Bekaa Valley using minor roads with many militia checkpoints had to be used. I remember, at one the militia men used to wear Ku Klux Klan type headcovers. Just relax when this masked man pointing with the AK-47 at you. Arriving in Broummana was always a great relief ,in particular after my relocation to the Printania Hotel. On one occasion, I had to use the northern route via Tripoli in order to get to Damascus.
During the first week in February 1984, heavy fighting in and around Beirut broke out and last for a few days. All other UN Agencies had evacuated the staff but we were told to stay. The only way to leave Beirut was by ferry from Jounieh to Cyprus. My colleagues and I spent a few nights in the office building just going out for fetching water and get fuel supplies from West Beirut. In summer 1984, the then UN Secretary-General Perez de Cuellar paid a courtesy call to the Lebanese government and met with us. He, and a small number of New York staff stayed overnight in Beit Meri next to Broummana. The following day they left by Lebanese Army helicopter (camouflaged) for Damascus. Flying over the Bekaa Valley almost resulted in being shot down, as quoted in the message from our Damascus office. Upon withdrawal of the Israeli units and later the US led Multinational Force peaceful conditions settled in and Jerusalem thought to replace the "battle-hardened" civilian personnel.
TAKING LEAVE FROM BEIRUT. Ticket were purchased for my return flight from Beirut to Cyprus, Egypt, Kenya and the Seychelles in late 1983. As it usually happened, Beirut Airport was closed and I had to find another way of getting out. My colleague Alfred from Barbados took me to the port in Jounieh and after one night travel I arrived in Larnaca, Cyprus where I was serving for more than 3 years as Austrian UN Peacekeeper. Lovely safari in Kenya and then ten days on the then marvellous beaches on Mahe Island, the capital of the Seychelles. Upon return to Cyprus, I was informed that Beirut Airport was closed again. By commercial flight back to Tel Aviv and by road to Jerusalem. Our Chief Admin Officer invited me to accompany him on a road trip to Damascus from where I was later driving back on the longer mountain route. I had received my marching order to the Headquarters in Jerusalem in September 1984. It was the most rewarding and challenging assignment to United Nations Peace-keeping operations. Similar challenges but with virtually no shooting incidents were waiting for me from 1988 to 1991. The United Nations Iran-Iraq Military Observer Group. After 12 months in Baghdad, the 18 months deployment in Saqquez (Kurdistan) and then Dezful (Khuzestan province) were waiting.