The Formation of Subcultures and Youth Identities in South African Townships Rooted in Fashion Brands

eLokshini, fashion has emerged as a powerful form of expression and identity for Black youth. Brands like Carvela & Lacoste have transcended their commercial origins to become integral symbols within various subcultures. This phenomenon reflects a broader historical trend where Black communities worldwide have transformed mainstream or overlooked brands into cultural icons, creating unique symbols and darlings that resonate deeply within their societies.

The adoption and adaptation of fashion brands by township youth in South Africa is a complex interplay of economic, social, and cultural factors. In the context of South African townships, fashion becomes a critical avenue for self-expression and status. Brands like Carvela & Lacoste, are not just items of clothing or footwear; they are badges of identity, affiliation, and aspiration.

Historically, these brands were not designed with the township youth in mind. However, through a process of cultural reclamation and reinvention, they have been imbued with new meanings and significance. This cultural reappropriation is a testament to the resilience and creativity inherent in Black communities, which have long faced exclusion and marginalization from mainstream industries.

One of the most striking examples of this phenomenon is the Izikhothane subculture, which emerged in the townships of Johannesburg in the early 2010s. Izikhothane, derived from the Zulu word meaning "to lick" or "to boast," is characterized by flamboyant displays of wealth and style. Youths involved in this subculture often dress in expensive clothes and shoes, with Carvela shoes being a particularly prized possession. These displays are not just about vanity but are deeply embedded in a complex social ritual that involves competition, status, and community recognition.

Izikhothane challenges traditional notions of consumption and value. The public destruction of expensive items, including Carvela shoes, during Izikhothane battles is a performative act that subverts and critiques societal norms around wealth and materialism. It is a way for the youth to assert their identity and agency in a society that often marginalizes them.

The rise of these fashion-based subcultures highlights the power of reappropriation. Brands that were once neutral or even indifferent to Black consumers have been transformed into symbols of cultural pride and identity. This transformation is a form of resistance, a way to carve out a space for self-definition and autonomy in a world that frequently denies Black youth such opportunities.

For generations, Black communities have excelled at making something out of nothing, turning overlooked brands into cultural phenomena. This ingenuity is a hallmark of Blackness, a testament to the ability to create and innovate under constraints. In South Africa, the township youth's embrace of brands like Carvela & Lacoste is a continuation of this legacy. Today, the echoes of these subcultures can still be seen in the vibrant fashion scenes of South African townships.?

In the global context, the story of South African township youth and their fashion subcultures resonates with similar phenomena worldwide. From the streets of Harlem to the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, marginalized communities have long used fashion as a tool for self-expression and empowerment. These subcultures are a testament to the universal human desire to be seen, heard, and valued.

The transformation of brands like Carvela & Lacoste into symbols of subcultural identity in South African townships underscores the power of cultural reappropriation. It highlights the creativity and resilience of Black youth who have consistently turned marginalization into a source of strength and innovation. These fashion subcultures are more than just trends; they are profound expressions of identity, resistance, and community in the face of adversity. As such, they offer valuable insights into the enduring spirit of Blackness and the ongoing quest for dignity and self-determination in South Africa and beyond.