Foam dyeing technology for denim
The denim industry is constantly evolving to incorporate new technologies, processes and production methods, many of which are efforts to improve sustainability throughout the supply chain. Thanks to industry-wide collaboration, a new method of indigo dyeing is now commercially available. Indigo foam dyeing originated at the university level and has moved through testing and trials and is about to be debuted in production after many years of research.
Wrangler recently announced that they are releasing a “Dry Indigo Denim” collection in 2019 featuring foam dyed denim fabrics from the Spanish mill Tejidos Royo. The dyeing machines are from U.S.-based Gaston Mills, using a patented technique called IndigoZERO? developed by Indigo Mill Designs. Indigo Mill Designs originally partnered with Texas Tech University on development and trials of this technology, and is able to dye both light and dark shades of denim. This technology adoption is a great example of how collaboration at all stages can bring a new technology, idea, or innovation to market and has the potential to change an industry.
What is Foam Dyeing?
Foam dyeing technology is not new and has been available in the market, though major advancements have been made in recent years. Foam dyeing is an attractive alternative to traditional dyeing methods due to the potential environmental benefits and supply chain savings. The main dyeing element in this process is foam, using air instead of water to carry the chemistry or dye onto the fabric. Foam systems can also be used to apply fabric finishes and are used for many different cotton fabrics, including knits, woven, and denim. Major advancements in foam chemistry, generation, and application control have been made to allow for increased mill adoption for this technology. Foam dyeing with indigo eliminates the use of several chemicals, but still allows for traditional processes, wash downs and effects seen with traditionally-dyed indigo fabrics.
The Benefits of Indigo Foam Dyeing
The savings potential with this dyeing method are significant for both the environment and the bottom line. There are many benefits of indigo foam dyeing, including:
+ Significant water and energy savings
+ Improved production efficiency
+ Potential to reduce the product development cycle by 50-90%
+ Can be easily combined with hand processes, laser and ozone garment treatments
+ Limits the number of chemicals needed during processing
+ Allows for smaller lot sizes
This technology could revolutionize the denim industry and allow companies to rethink traditional processing methods. Through continued industry collaboration, the possibilities are endless!
A demonstration of a key innovation in foam dyeing of yarn for denim was held recently at the Texas Tech University Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute in Lubbock, Texas, USA. The event was hosted by Indigo Mill Designs (IMD), with the company commercializing this technology under its IndigoZERO? brand. Representatives from across the apparel industry and numerous denim manufacturers were on hand for the event, along with early stage funders Wrangler, Lee, and the Walmart Foundation.
Early in our research, we found that foam dyeing of yarn for denim gives significantly better results when combined with our IndigoZERO? technology. Zero rinse water discharge and the reduction of chemicals used in dyeing indigo dramatically improve the sustainability of this process while reducing costs at the same time, said Ralph Tharpe, Founder and Managing Partner of Indigo Mill Designs. IMD, along with Gaston Systems Inc., will work with early adopters of the technology to build machines capable of running this innovative new process.
Gaston’s proprietary foam generation and application technology was built into the research machine at Texas Tech. Now we must work to scale the research machine design to a full-size production unit. Our relationship with IMD will result in a fundamental change in the way indigo is applied to yarn, said Chris Aurich, Managing Director of Gaston Systems. “A large fabric mill uses millions of gallons of water every day to dye denim,” explains Dr Sudhakar Puvvada who leads denim innovation work for Wrangler and Lee’s Global Innovation Center, and has served as an advisor to IMD. IMD’s innovation can greatly reduce that amount and cut the energy needed for dyeing and wastewater treatment.
IMD’s foam-dyeing process also will allow fabric mills to produce much smaller quantities, when desired, than with conventional processes. In addition to reducing waste, smaller fabric runs will allow for greater design and marketing flexibility in the denim industry. The reduction in water required for dyeing is dramatic and processing costs will be reduced. Additionally, the IndigoZERO? system speeds up product development time, perhaps reducing it by as much as 90 per cent, said Dean Ethridge, lead researcher at Texas Tech. We’re grateful for the investment and technical contributions of Wrangler and Lee, along with the research funding from the US Manufacturing Innovation Fund in helping to make this innovation commercially possible.