Flannel: cozy and full of history
Odds are, you have something flannel in your closet. It might be a hat, scarf, button-down dress shirt, or maybe even a flannel-lined pair of pants. But what exactly is flannel? How is it different from something like a basic cotton?
You might already know that flannel has an impressive ability to trap in heat and yet it is still breathable enough to wick moisture away, but what most people don’t know is that flannel is a fabric and not a pattern. For instance, a common misconception is that all plaid shirts are flannel shirts. Or that something that feels soft like flannel, but is in a solid hue, isn’t a true flannel.
With this article, we are going to take a close look at this fabric. The history, the production, and yes, the style.
Some history
A fabric very similar to today’s version of flannel dates back to sometime around the seventeenth century in Wales. It was made of worsted wool and then napped (I'll explain this term later) to create a very warm fabric, one that could stand up to the wet and cold weather notoriously common in Wales.
Before long, most of Europe was discovering how wonderful this new fabric was. It was warm, durable, and best of all, inexpensive. By the time the Industrial Revolution was in full swing, wool mills were popping up all over the place. Flannel crossed the ocean sometime in 1869 when flannel long johns were introduced in the United States. And in 1889, a gentleman by the name of Hamilton Carhartt (does the name ring a bell??) started his company selling durable flannel garments, like the iconic work overalls, to railroad workers.
It wasn’t long before flannel, specifically the flannel shirt, became a symbol for tough and rugged men. The American folklore hero Paul Bunyan helped to solidify this reputation.
Mid-century America saw prominence of flannel extend into the business world with the rise in popularity of flannel suits for the gentleman.
How is flannel manufactured?
The flannel of old was made from either carded wool or worsted yarn, but modern versions can be manufactured from wool, cotton, and even synthetic fibers. But regardless of the fiber, the fabric is then brushed to give it that softness that we all love. What happens during brushing is that a fine metal brush gently rubs the fabric to raise the fine fibers from the yarns, this process is called napping.
Napping is what gives the softness that we all know and love. And practically speaking, these lifted fibers help to trap air, thereby enhancing the insulatory capability of the clothing.
Flannel today
Today, we find flannel just about everywhere. There are a range of different weights, from about 5 oz./sq yd for medium quality cotton fabrics to upwards of 10 – 20 oz./sq yd for the heavier winter weight wool. Your intended use will dictate the weight. And you can tell a lot about the fabric by holding it up to the light and seeing how transparent it is.
A good example of the versatility of flannel, and how it has permeated into every level of style, even bespoke menswear, is to look at one of my own dress shirts:
My intention was to design a flannel dress shirt that was a nod to the fabric's origins as a working man’s staple. I started with a heavyweight fabric and added rubber buttons to enhance the shirt’s aesthetic of durability. Two chest pockets, one pleated for bulky items, ensured that this was a shirt to work in. I then added a bespoke detail that is usually found on more elegant shirts: the envelope style cuff (see detail in image above).
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While wearing a flannel suit was relatively mainstream during mid-century America, today it is a sign of a particularly stylish man. And if you live in a cooler climate, a flannel suit is an excellent alternative to tweed.
Something that makes a flannel suit very unique is that the wool is printed with a desired color hue versus a more traditional dying method. This technique was originated in France and called vigoureux printing. This way, when the wool is spun into a yarn, it has a bit of a mixed color, which provides a super cool depth to the finished fabric.
When it comes to the yarn, there are two types:
Wrap up
Flannel has been around for a long, long time. From the wet and cold winters of the Wales countryside to the railroads of America during the industrial revolution, flannel has been keeping men and women warm and cozy. Wool, cotton, synthetic? The fabric doesn’t matter so long as it’s napped into a nice and soft garment that’s a pleasure to wear.
About me: I founded Bespoke Edge and the fitness blog, Motus Fitness. Follow me here on LinkedIn for my articles on building a Brand, Marketing, and Fitness tips. And probably a cocktail recipe now and again.