Fishy business: challenges and opportunities in sustainable seafood

As an increasing number of?media reports?and?documentaries?are showing, the world’s fish stocks are on the brink of collapse. Industrial overfishing, poor stewardship of our oceans and climate change are all threatening the future of seafood. Addressing these urgent challenges is especially hard when consumers demand familiar and affordable products. So what can restaurant operators do to ensure their sourcing practices do not deplete marine ecosystems? This article explores the challenges and solutions associated with sustainable fish and seafood, identifies species of concern and offers alternatives. It also addresses areas of controversy and highlights the certification schemes vital for navigating this complex landscape.

Challenges in Sustainable Seafood?Sourcing

The world’s oceans, seas, lakes and rivers face several, compounding threats.

Overfishing and stock depletion

Highly efficient industrial fishing methods can catch more fish than the ecosystem can sustainably reproduce, leading many fish populations to decline at alarming rates. Popular species like Atlantic cod and Bluefin tuna are particularly affected. The demand for these fish often exceeds sustainable levels, leading to stock depletion and ecosystem imbalance. It also has a negative impact on artisan fisherfolk who depend on seafood, caught traditionally, for their diet and livelihood.

Bycatch and habitat destruction

Industrial fishing does more than just catch unsustainable levels of the target species. Bycatch, the capture of non-target species, and destructive fishing practices like bottom trawling, damage marine habitats. Bycatch not only threatens the survival of unintended species but also disrupts the food chain, affecting the broader ecosystem.

Aquaculture: A Double-Edged Sword

Aquaculture, or fish farming, is often presented as a?sustainable solution?to overfishing. However, it comes with its own set of controversies.?Poorly managed fish farms?can lead to water pollution, disease spreading to wild populations and habitat destruction. Sustainable aquaculture practices, certified by the ASC or BAP, can mitigate these risks, but ongoing debates about their environmental impact remain.

Climate change

Climate change impacts fish populations through rising sea temperatures, ocean acidification and changing marine environments. These changes can alter fish distribution, reproductive cycles, and availability, complicating efforts to maintain sustainable seafood sources.

Traceability and?fraud

Ensuring the seafood on your menu is genuinely sustainable requires robust traceability systems. But mislabelling and seafood fraud are prevalent all around the globe, making it difficult to verify the sustainability of sources. The onus is on consumers and food service operators to demand high standards of testing and traceability from their suppliers.

The Role of Marine Protected Areas?(MPAs)

MPAs are regions where human activity is restricted to protect marine ecosystems. While MPAs can effectively replenish fish stocks, they can also be?contentious?among fishing communities and industries reliant on these areas. Balancing conservation efforts with economic interests is crucial, and MPAs must be part of a broader sustainable management strategy.

Implementing sustainable practices

Certification Schemes

Several certification schemes exist to help ensure seafood is sustainably sourced. Key certifications include:

• 海洋管理委员会 :?MSC certification?ensures that wild-caught fish come from well-managed and sustainable fisheries.
• Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC) :?ASC certification?applies to farmed fish and focuses on responsible aquaculture practices.
• Best Aquaculture Practices (BAP) :?BAP certification?covers environmental and social responsibility, animal welfare, and food safety.

All of these certification schemes have attracted?criticism and controversy, and there are those who believe little or no seafood can really be considered ‘sustainable’. Foodservice buyers and consumers should always maintain a healthy cynicism about producer claims and are encouraged to ask for proof of a product’s sustainability credentials.

Menu planning

Incorporate a variety of sustainable fish and seafood options in your menu. Highlight these choices to educate customers and demonstrate your commitment to sustainability. Regularly update the menu based on the latest sustainability data and certifications.

Supplier relationships

Build strong relationships with suppliers committed to sustainable practices. Request certification documentation and conduct periodic audits to ensure compliance. Transparent communication with suppliers can enhance trust and ensure the sustainability of your seafood sources.

Staff training

Educate your staff about the importance of sustainable seafood and how to communicate this to customers. Well-informed staff can effectively convey the significance of sustainable choices, enhancing customer experience and fostering a culture of sustainability within your restaurant.

Emphasising traceability

Implementing traceability systems helps verify the sustainability of seafood.?UK law?already requires producers and processors to maintain records of where, when, how and by whom their fish was caught.?Technologies like blockchain?can provide transparent tracking from catch to plate, ensuring authenticity and sustainability, though this remains at an early stage.

Diversifying menus

Reducing reliance on overfished species by diversifying menus can mitigate the impact on vulnerable stocks. Lesser known but sustainable species, often termed “underutilised species,” can be equally delicious and more environmentally friendly?—?see below for some suggestions.

Sustainable alternatives to threatened species

Environmental charity Greenpeace maintains a ‘red list’ of critically endangered seafood that consumers should avoid, including Atlantic cod, halibut and salmon; several species of tuna, including bluefin, yellowfin and bigeye; monkfish; sharks; skates and rays; and tropical shrimp. The The Sustainable Restaurant Association notes?five species?as being particularly problematic due to their popularity on UK restaurant menus: cod, haddock, tuna, salmon and prawns. Here are some more sustainable alternatives to consider.

• Cod: Pacific cod has more stable populations than it’s Atlantic cousin, but pollock is another sustainable choice that can be used similarly in recipes.
• Haddock:?Coley and hake are sustainable alternatives with a similar taste and texture.
• Tuna: Albacore or skipjack tuna are more sustainable options if caught using pole-and-line, but sardines are great alternative when looking for an oily fish, and can be caught in the UK.
• Salmon: Look for ASC-certified farmed salmon or consider using Arctic char, which has a similar flavour and is more sustainably farmed.
• Prawns: try using smaller, less impactful species like MSC-certified cold-water prawns or farmed freshwater prawns over tropical varieties. A premium alternative is Scottish langoustines (also known as Dublin Bay prawns) which make a good replacement for tiger prawns. Better still, rope-grown mussels are extremely sustainable and can be sourced from the UK.

Perhaps the simplest swap is for a plant-based ingredient instead of seafood; this has added benefits like reducing your carbon footprint and reducing the number of allergens on your menu. Just like in meat dishes, veggie alternatives like seitan, tofu and jackfruit all offer useful replacements?for the texture and protein provided by seafood?—?try them in dishes like fishcakes, kedgeree or seafood curries. There is also a?burgeoning ‘alt-seafood’ industry, though (like the alt-meat industry) many of the products are highly processed, lab-grown or not yet a good match for the ‘natural’ product they aim to replace.

Sustainable seafood sourcing is a multifaceted challenge for restaurant operators, involving ecological, economic and social considerations. By adopting certification schemes, emphasising traceability, diversifying menus and educating both staff and customers, operators can significantly contribute to marine conservation. While controversies and conflicting opinions persist, the overarching goal remains clear: preserving marine ecosystems for future generations while satisfying today’s culinary demands. Embracing sustainable practices is not just a moral imperative but a strategic business decision that can enhance reputation, customer loyalty and long-term viability in an increasingly sustainability-conscious market.

Sustainable Hospitality is produced by Rob Kidd, an independent consultant working in food and hospitality.