Fencing Projects Untangled - Part 1

I always look to start the new year with a fresh start, a clean slate, and a time to start planning by putting dates and projects on the calendar. If your horse farm is in need of new fencing, let me show you how to untangle the fence planning process.

Even though the days are blustery and cold, our spring will arrive in a few short months. Planning for a new fence can take weeks of brainstorming and a lot of redrawn designs. That’s a good thing; you want to be sure you will arrive at the layout that suits you and your horse(s) the best that you can.  

First, start with a list of what you want to change from your current layout. This list should be made from the things that you face daily that have become a challenge in caring for your horse(s). For example, do you want to cut down on maintenance with your current fence where your pasture is divided? Add ‘aisles between paddocks’ to your list.  

Here are a few examples to start your list:

• 12’ gates for the front of paddocks, 16’ utility gate at the back of each paddock for large trucks, horse trailers, etc.
• Taller fence height - 54"-56” post height, not 48-50” (current height).
• Eliminate high-traffic areas near the back barn door by installing fencing at least 16’ away from the barn. 
• Heavy-duty 2-way gate latches on every gate. 
• Pressure-treated pine posts in proper length and diameter. 

Once your list is made, you have begun the process of what to include in your actual layout. 

Next, get some graph paper or simply start to draw out the configurations of the pastures that you want for your horse(s). Place your barn, any trees, shrubs or driveways on your layout if you can. Be sure to include anything that will be non-movable. Also, don’t forget to mark underground water lines, tile, or gas lines. If you do not know where they are located, call 811 prior to fencing so they can mark electric and gas lines. Then probe for any other lines that could be in the path of your fencing. It is much easier to mark before fencing rather than taking a chance and hitting a line (always have underground lines marked for safety reasons).  

Once you can see what you are working with, you can begin to draw out your pastures. Think in terms of what will be the least amount of steps for turning out or bringing in your horse(s). Here are some good ideas to consider when laying out your fencing:

1. There is less maintenance with the exterior of your barn when your fencing is not attached to it. Horses like to stand where shade is located in the warm months, which is near the barn. They also gravitate to where they can go in and out - besides the barn. Even with the best intentions, horses swish flies and play when bored. Inevitably, your barn will take some hits over time and can cause more maintenance than you anticipated.
2. Be sure that all of your corners are at least 90 degrees. Anything smaller can be a danger. Horses can get trapped and kicked in small areas, so avoid anything that ‘funnels’ your horse into a corner. Also, avoid having narrow lanes that lead horses to and from pastures. This can be a high traffic area where accidents can happen. Areas like this will inevitably need more maintenance and could lead to injury.
3. If your fences are on very hilly areas, be sure there is plenty of room for horses to move easily without over-tracking. When it is wet out or thaws occur, well-traveled areas can become as slippery as slides. Make sure you give your horse(s) plenty of room to choose wider routes so that they do not slide into your fencing where accidents can happen. 
4. With horses, it’s best to choose 8’, 10’, or 12’ post spacing. Horses like to put their heads through to eat grass on the other side of the fence (unless you use electric fence). With closer post spacing, it’s harder for horses to push the rails apart. It gives your fence more stability, especially with Flexible fence, coated wire fences or any electric fencing. 
5. Electric fence offers you the ability to keep your horse(s) off of the fence, saving on the cost of your total investment. Large pastures can allow your horse(s) adequate grazing without ever being tempted to eat grass on the other side. However, if you see your horse(s) leaning on your fence, put up electric fencing quickly. It will save you loads of money down the road from maintenance. Do consider an electric fence for the top, middle, and bottom of your fence runs.
6. If your horse(s) will eventually eat all the grass in their paddock, know and plan on being sure you have a grazing station located centrally in your pasture. Horses are instinctively grazing animals. If they do not have grass to eat, they will start to push on your fence to get it one way or another. By providing an area where you have hay at all times, you will be taking good care of your horse(s) as well as saving on maintenance with your fencing. Supply them with a grass mix or grass hay so that they do not get too much protein. Hay stations can become muddy in time if horses surround the area often. Consider having rubber mats, grooming mats, grids or mud management in that area. It will be easier to take hay there and your horse(s) won’t get bored.  

Get your ideas and drawings on paper. These should be ‘living’ documents, meaning, you make changes until you are satisfied with your plan. This way, you are sure to make the best choices for you and your horse(s).

In the next article (part 2), I will discuss further steps about how to choose your fence, installation and more good tips for your horse farm. You can then untangle the process of a fencing project, step-by-step!

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