Fashion in the new world of work with author and style-expert Monica Barnett

A year ago, my professional "uniform" included shift dresses and pumps. With my new work-from-home lifestyle, I wear sneakers almost exclusively. Apparently, I'm not the only one who has said farewell to uncomfortable heels. According to the research firm NPD Group, dress shoe sales dropped 71% in Q2 2020, compared to last year. That's not the only thing changing in the world of fashion. Makeup sales have sharply declined, Tailored Brand's, the owner of Men's Warehouse, and Jos A. Bank filed for bankruptcy, and athleisure sales continue to soar.

Quarantine fashion: it's the wild, wild west out there

I asked my friend and fashion expert, Monica Barnett, to help us navigate the new world of work fashion and virtual first impressions. Across Monica's distinguished career as a wardrobe stylist, she has had the privilege to partner with major corporations to fine-tune their employees' style and brand; and the opportunity to work with corporate executives, politicos, and world-class athletes. She has authored two books focused on the link and balance between personal style and business. The first book focused on how our dress influences our interactions, and the second is for female creatives who need to build their brands and use the closets to do better business! Monica is also the founder of the style school, an online resource to equip anyone with the fundamentals of style across various areas and career points.

Sarah: It’s been a little over a year since the last time I interviewed you, Monica. It would be an understatement for me to say a lot has happened in that time! The last time we talked about great heels to wear with jeans during a casual networking event.How else has fashion changed over the last year? 

Monica: OMG? Changed? That would be an understatement of grand proportions. Our “new normal” has required a fundamental shift in how we do business, not just in how we show up to do that business. In our last conversation, we talked about ways to look good across various informal and formal business scenarios. Still, the added complexity is virtual because you look or “show up” differently on-camera than IRL! The same cues we used in-person do not read the same way on-screen, and the same applies to business attire. I am conducting a few multi-part series for major companies focused on “doing business virtually,” and, in this case, there are two significant shifts to think about: the first is that we need to shift our understanding of what virtual means to get to a point where we understand that we have to retrain ourselves on how to engage with people. Email is now the least authentic version of communication, and to create genuine authenticity, we have to get comfortable on camera. The second major shift is thinking about managing the little bit of screen real estate you have and putting your best foot forward virtually. The answer now is focused on the balance between relaxed and authentic but professional and polished. Fashion now focused on that picture and impression you can create with that little on-camera space. Our new fashion norm is from the waist-up!

Sarah: We’ve coined many new words and phrases over the past year, including “Zoom shirt”. According to Urban Dictionary, this is the “shirt or blouse that’s kept on the back of your desk chair so that you can quickly get presentable for video conferences.” As a female, I think it can be harder to find an appropriate and fashionable shirt for a waist up call because a lot of women’s fashion dips at the chest into a V or scoop. It can be challenging to find attractive shirts that offer full chest coverage. Have you found any great options for your clients? We’d love to see pictures and links! 

Monica: I am going to disagree with the Urban Dictionary definition of “Zoom shirt” because in real-life business (even if it’s virtual), it cannot be the shirt that you throw on that’s from the back of your chair. Instead, what I have coached my clients (from C-suite folks to entrepreneurs) is that you should create 2-3 Zoom-ready outfits, and note that I said outfits. This new way of business isn’t just about waist-up fashion; it’s about creating ways to stay motivated and engaged. For many, getting dressed is one of the best ways to stay productive and upbeat, so my recommendation is to create a full look that you put on in the morning. Now it doesn’t have to include heels and overly constricting items, but a great pair of stretchy pants (just in case you stand up on-camera) + a top that reads professional and polished but personable is the answer. My recommendation is to steer clear of too many bold prints as they are hard to tone-down on-camera. Instead, opt for something that “frames’ the face, so v-necks and boatnecks are nice options but also crewnecks with a little neck candy and something that allows you to return to work even if it’s to a more casual office without having to buy yet another round of clothing. I love the Nejvi top for more formal business and my execs - This turtleneck wool top is ideal for a more sleek look that is complemented with a bold necklace (and it’s neutral enough to wear multiple times!). I’ve fallen in love with the shrunken cashmere sweatshirt for IG Lives and less formal business meetings - And I love these drop-shoulder tees because they work solo but layer nicely with blazers or cardigans if you want more coverage and/or polish!

Sarah: A recent Gartner HR survey showed that 86% of organizations are conducting virtual interviews to hire candidates during coronavirus pandemic. For video interviews, do you still think it’s a good idea to wear a full suit and tie?

Monica: I have been conducting several training sessions with colleges and law schools around the country! The advice I have been giving based on the research and my experience is that a full suit and tie is only for THE most formal affairs. We’re in the middle of a pandemic, and everyone knows it, so you don’t have to go 100% all-in on full business, but you do need to project an “I care” look that has polish and professionalism. I think that looks like a great dress with a simple necklace for ladies or a scarf, and it looks like a tie + micro-check button-down shirt or sport coat and a button-down shirt for guys. The idea to have the button-down + tie + blazer is excessive - you’re at home!

Sarah: Sweatpants have replaced the “Little Black Dress” for fall. I read a report that sweatpant sales are up over 80% this year over last and that pajama sales have surged 143%. Speaking of comfort wear, my favorite brand of sweats is the Homage “essential”, a brand out of Columbus, OH. What about you? What’s your favorite loungewear?

Monica: In addition to your information, note that the sale of denim has plummeted and in its place, leggings are on the rise. I am Team Jeans (see my IG) but have also found these pants and these to work wonders because I can wear them all day, and do my quick runs to the post office or Whole Foods. And yes, they will work equally as wonderfully when I start heading back out to do in-person meetings! I’ve never been a big sweatpants girl since I’ve got junk-in-my-trunk but in a pinch, I can do cool tailored sweatpants like these on the most casual of days!

Sarah: Do you think it will go back to “normal” once the pandemic is over? 

Monica: Between Google and Microsoft saying that they are offering permanent work-from-home options, I think the landscape will forever be changed because we understand how effective we can still be while working from home! So once we’ve reached a workable plateau, I think we will see an even more relaxed dress code and work style. I have mixed feelings as I believe that when you get “dressed for business” it puts you in a mindset to do business, so I am excited to see how we balance relaxed dress with professionalism, and the trends that pop up as a result.

Sarah: Both Vogue and InStyle had features this year about how they want to break the wasteful practices caused by unrealistic fashion cycles (i.e. Burberry literally burning millions of unsold product) and turn into a more sustainable buying practice. Do you have any thoughts on how we as consumers can take longevity and sustainability into account as we buy new clothes?

Monica: Oh absolutely agree - and love the push! Fast fashion creates an inordinate amount of waste as well. I offer an online course called The Eco-Friendly Closet that provides ways we can be fashionable but more responsible at the same time. In short, we MUST get onboard with sustainability so look for cotton products that sustainably sourced (the course provides a list of great brands that do clothing responsibly) and consider consignment shopping. It means no new chemicals or waste is created and you still get a very well-made item that can have a second life for years to come!!

Sarah: You just released a new book, The Creatives’ Closet which is a “dress for success book for female creatives of the gig economy”. What prompted you to write this book?

Monica: It was oozing out of me in the form of blog posts and downloadable guides for a while so when the pandemic hit hard in March, I took it as a sign from above that I needed to use the indoor/downtime to put pen-to-paper, and share what I had to say. It’s really a love note to female creatives and entrepreneurs who want to do better business and want a blueprint for putting their closet to better use in that pursuit!! I truly love the book and offer many ways to engage directly with me throughout the reading process!

Sarah: Last question... If you could go back in time, what would you tell yourself five/ten years ago?

Monica: I would remind my younger self that although some of the frosting may change, I’ll still be a fan of yellow cake! Style evolves and I believe it informs our journey but, in the end, if you can learn what works well for you and embrace it then you’re two steps ahead of everyone else. Start out by being a little formulaic with your style and over time, while the fundamentals won’t change, you’ll be able to build on it and add flourishes to it.

Want to learn more about Monica Barnett: The Creatives’ Closet book, her online style school called the style school, her Blueprint for Style website, the link to get her every-so-often newsletter, or her Everything link that houses everything!

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Special thanks to Kimmie Farris, Sara Marlatt, Allison Sell and Michele Crow for your assistance brainstorming great questions to ask!