Fashion designer, Gretchen Bohling shares her views on life during the pandemic
Although the global pandemic has derailed many lives and plans, the apparel industry has historically proven its ability to reinvent and adjust to where, what, and how consumers buy. We take a moment to check in with principals from the fashion design community through brief conversations, and views from within the pandemic. This time, we visit with designer Gretchen Bohling.
Q: 'Why' do you design? Has the answer to this question changed because of the pandemic?
GB: I design because it is my passion and something I have loved since I was a kid. Design is something that is embedded into my brain, for lack of a better word. When I see fashion and clothing (which is constantly whether it be through social media, regular media, or in everyday life) I am constantly thinking of new designs, fabrications and how I can create something unique for myself or my collection. During the pandemic the 'why' of my design didn't really change –– but I will say the time I had to design creatively took a dramatic shift. Last year when we were first shut down and there was a shortage of PPE, I shifted my entire schedule to begin making masks for our healthcare workers, essential workers, and the general public. I focused solely on that for almost three months during, which time I wasn't able to design or make clothing at all; so that really affected me as a designer and my creative flow. It was also hard because I wasn't out and about seeing people getting dressed up and styling themselves. During lockdown there really wasn't any motivation for anyone to get dressed like we were used to during pre-pandemic times. It was hard to find the inspiration to create and the motivation to want to sew, but eventually the inspiration came back, thankfully!
Q: In the post-pandemic world, what do you believe you will value most as you prepare to bring back your career in fashion design?
GB: The connection with my clients and students, and the opportunity to create clothing for them. Being able to sit down with my clients in order to create a custom garment is very inspiring, and allows me a creative outlet while also providing me with the challenge to design and sew something outside of my own inspiration. Bringing my client's vision to life is something I will alway cherish, and during the pandemic people just weren't attending events or even going to work, so they weren't shopping for unique clothing items.
Q: Are you currently learning new skills or shifting your attention to new areas of interest? If so, what changes are you making?
GB: Pre-pandemic, I taught private sewing lessons at my studio space in downtown Des Moines. When the world shut down I had to stop offering lessons in order to remain safe in my business. The ironic thing is that right before everything shut down, I was planning on expanding my sewing lessons by offering classes and workshops — obviously that didn't happen in 2020. Even with it being almost halfway through 2021, it still hasn't happened, but I am planning on launching sewing classes and workshops sometime this summer (likely late summer). I have expanded my physical studio space and now have a separate area where I plan to host the classes. On top of a class schedule which will include beginner lessons, advanced garment construction, and various specialty workshops, I plan to open a separate space for local seamstresses and indy designers when I don't have classes, so they can utilize the studio and all of the professional equipment — much like having a gym membership :)
Q: How has your creative vision been affected by the realities of the pandemic?
GB: It definitely was during the shutdown, and even up until the beginning of 2021. Much like the general population, my mental state became a place where I had to focus on getting through the day and barely had anything left over for creation and productivity. It was hard for me to remain inspired and to create for several reasons: not being around people, not able to be inspired by current fashion trends — with everyone working from home and being in quarantine fashion and style pretty much shifting to loungewear and matching sweatsuits. On top of that, I was so engrossed in making masks that it took a toll on not only my creative inspiration but also my body physically — I was essentially working in mass production, assembly line style, which can really affect your muscles and dexterity. I am very thankful to be on the other side, and to be able to work with clients in a safe way again!
Q: How do you see retail changing now that we are emerging from the pandemic?
GB: Retail has already made such a huge shift from brick and mortar to online. I think we will continue to see a shift towards online and more accessibility when it comes to shopping on our own terms. I also think as a result of the pandemic, consumers are becoming more conscious of where they shop and what they choose to invest in. Having been so saturated in an online community during the pandemic it was virtually impossible to escape the ‘trending' topics floating around online whether it be politics, health, activism, and even topics such as skincare and fashion. The focus on fashion has shown the average consumer how harmful the fast fashion industry actually is in conjunction with our political climate as it pertains to our environment, so more and more people are choosing to shop sustainably, and as a result are supporting more indy designers and brands that are making it a priority to implement ethical manufacturing procedures.
Q: Are you changing the way you do business online?
GB: Personally I haven't had to change how I do business online. I have always sold my private label collection through my website and social media channels. My customers can shop the classic collection and new collection pieces 24/7 online and have the ability to communicate with me directly as the indy designer of my brand. Because all of my pieces are handmade to order, I provide a unique level of customer service that has always been in place pre-, during, and post-pandemic. As far as marketing and advertising goes, I have always focused on promoting my brand through social media with a heavy focus on Instagram — that focus has shifted to TikTok during the pandemic as a result of the app becoming so popular. Video marketing has taken over in general and with the opportunity to grow my audience on TikTok it has allowed me to share sewing tips and BTS look at my sewing studio and the process I use to design my private label collection and custom garments.
Q: Do you have any new plans for the short term? Any new products on the horizon?
GB: I just launched my spring summer 2021 collection early in May and have been focusing on pushing those pieces via social media and my website. I have a constant rotation of custom garments that I am working on for clients — currently I am working on a wedding dress, a three-piece suit, and various everyday items for other clients. I am in the process of expanding my studio space in Des Moines, Iowa to include sewing classes and workshops when it is safe to host classes of 5 -10 students at a time. Right now I teach sewing lessons privately but with the addition of classes and workshops I hope to open the possibility to more students. The classes will be focused on either beginner sewing skills, or advanced garment construction with various workshops focusing on detailed sewing techniques scheduled throughout the year.
Q: With the current environment set for telecommuting, flexible hours and emphasis on work-life balance, do you see a continued movement towards 'casualization'? Would that 'comfort' lifestyle have an effect on your brand decisions going forward?
GB: I think we will see a shift in the ability to plug in via telecommuting and have more flexibility in the workplace as far as meetings and the like go as a result, but I also think that people are eager to get back to the 'office' and have face to face interactions again. As such we will start to see more people investing in their wardrobes again. I also think with events coming back into the picture, people have more of a reason to shop for specialty pieces. Even pre-pandemic, the fashion industry saw huge growth in the 'comfort' lifestyle with the introduction of athleisure wear; similarly, to the ease of throwing something on to run an errand or intentionally dressing 'casual chic’, I think the comfort aspect of fashion will be around for a while. It has become somewhat trendy to dress up your sweatpants, and to pair your sneakers with more outfits than we have seen in the past. All that being said, I think it depends on the circumstance and what is acceptable how each individual will dress, but that has always been the case. I think people are also very eager to dress up and ‘get-ready' again, so I'm sure that this year there will be a resurgence of shopping for those trendy, in-style pieces like statement blazers, and cute summer dresses.
To learn more about designer, Gretchen Bohling, or to make an appointment, visit her website at: Gretchen Bohling Designs.