Fairer food labelling - will it leave a sour taste?
Credit: Richard Faulks

Fairer food labelling - will it leave a sour taste?

Great Taste was launched in 1994.? An industry-initiative established to support a then struggling artisan food and drink network. The consumer was obsessed by supermarkets, and we’d forgotten how much food should cost to protect quality and to protect the livelihood of those who made it.

Yes, it was the brainchild of our Chairman, Bob Farrand, with support from Food from Britain and it continues today, run by the (hardworking) team at the Guild.? But I don’t truly believe that we own the badge, the logo, or the label that states Great Taste.? It still feels like retailers, wholesalers and, of course, producers do. It’s a worthy mechanism that involves the entire food and drink industry to ensure that the consumer is more informed when grocery shopping, being directed to products made with simpler ingredients that have the added bonus of tasting great.? There’s a good deal behind that gold and black moniker.

I still occasionally watch BBC’s Dragon’s Den. They mine our winners’ data and visit our Great Taste Markets to poach finance-hungry producers and so I call it work-related research. There’s our logo on a jar or packet every other week. “You see that label everywhere now…” rings true.? But is that because more makers now bother to make better quality food and drink than they did 30 years ago?? It should be a shared achievement and celebration that we are now a serious culinary country, respected by our neighbours, for making top-notch cheese, coffee, beer, preserves...

There wasn’t an awful lot of celebration on last night’s edition from the fiery investors. A poor Viking reenactment enthusiast had decided that mead was the next big thing (he might be right) but had brutally over-valued his business. They all seem to. He got hammered for his branding and labelling design too.? It was too Viking-y.?

Probably true.? I can’t image the axe-wielding weekenders will provide the ‘scale’ the Dragons insist on.? But there was something charming and honest about it.? It told a story, and it had personality.?

Defra are asking us about what should be on a label and how it can help the consumer make a more ethical buying decision.? The Fairer Food Labelling consultation closed in May, with its findings published sometime soon, although will inevitably be delayed (or vanish) with the pending election shenanigans.

It concerns itself with what should be declared on label and at first glance there is a danger that over-processed foods will dodge the declaration bullet, with simpler ingredients listings having to be more transparent.? Irritating.?? But the ‘method of production’ criteria may be our chance to truly help the consumer.? Why not state volume or output per day, week, or month, or declare where and how the raw ingredients are sourced?? Food and drink with a real story and provenance, made in smaller batches, could have their chance to say so, exposing the faux farms and over-styled contract packers.

We’re all up for edifying info on pack, and fully supportive of communicating improved animal welfare and transparency when it comes to raw ingredients. But it would be a bonus to recognise ‘under-production’. That label can be a congested place, just make sure you make some room for a Great Taste logo.

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