Lessons in Leadership From a Fashion Icon

Fashion is, by one definition, ephemeral, often determined by rapidly changing trends and modes, fads and the latest rage. And, in our Social Media Society of instantaneous feedback, influence and FOMO, and not to mention, our insistence on generations having little or nothing in common—and certainly not fashion—"how could I possibly understand?” At least that’s how the general narrative goes…Fashion is quick, the stars are in and out, and brands? –you know the story.

On the other hand, brands do matter. I love seeing members of the supposed “Anti-Brand” generation strutting in Balenciaga, Burberry and Vuitton, and obviously so do classic designers and design houses. Ralph Lauren comes to mind along with Chanel, for example.

But for our purposes, here, I’m interested in Leadership more so than Fashion.

How does a designer create a label that is timeless, that speaks to women of all ages, types, and geographical regions? How does one stay true to her heritage, without pandering to the trolls? How does one remain truly modest without ever compromising on quality? Remain inspired by what’s real…from wherever she can find it…and manage to apply her creativity to business issues, as well, with the same force and focus? And how, might this mythical designer, achieve all of this managing to keep her life centered by spending every Friday night/Sabbath with her husband and family?

For that, you’ll have to ask Nili Lotan—one of the top ready-to-wear women’s designers in the world, whose “understated cool” has been the subject numerous articles and publicity, most recently in Forbes.

My readers know that I am a big believer in the idea that real leaders are always in Beta, facing challenges that they could not have prepared for, and creating solutions, on the fly, learning (a huge Leadership attribute) as they fearlessly iterate and then iterate again.

I refer you to a recent piece in Vogue about Nili and Barneys Department Store, the “Mecca” of fashion in New York City. As Barneys continued to decline, Nili (whose line had been a top performer at the store) faced a huge challenge. Barneys was not only an enormous selling channel for her brand, but its employees and executives had been close friends to her throughout her career.

When it became obvious that Barneys would not survive much past 2019, and a number of her close contacts there left, Nili was left with goods and huge order for this coming year. But she didn’t miss a beat, and quickly, with her team, opened a temporary store a few blocks away.

Listen to the words of a leader:

“I had all of this product and didn’t want to have to sit with it and put it on sale, and wanted to show it in the most beautiful way…it’s already bringing in a lot of new clients from the neighborhood…a lot of thought went into where our former Barneys customers were going to go,” Nili told Vogue.

Nili learns from new customers, taking care of the loyal and expanding into new places…learning from everything she does and from every job she has ever had. She has also pioneered inventory control based on dyeing and finishing her own fabrics, as new orders come in, and creates her own colors and finishes that make her clothing intimate and unique.

Unlike many designers of the day, Nili doesn’t believe that demographics define our acceptance of ideas or aesthetics. Gigi Hadid and Martha Stewart both wear her clothes. Boutiques in the Midwest of the United States beat a path to her showroom and treat her like a rock star (unnecessary, since she is approachable as she is modest), and her distributors listen to her advice as to which pieces to carry (and how many) so that they don’t over-order…think of that.

Nili has a laboratory that she calls an Atelier, where her fashion sketches are transformed into actual garments…with everything from the cutting of the patterns and cloth to the sewing of original garments—done by hand. Each step is carefully choreographed, checked and rechecked until she is happy with its look and fit, before making it part of the next season’s offering.

And, lest you think that technology isn’t present…the finished patterns are all digitized for production.

The atmosphere in the workplace hums. There are cutters who have been with her since the start, and young associates just starting out, and everything in between. The Brand, “Nili Lotan,” is infused in every aspect of the atelier—even on the bins where spare clothing buttons are stored.

Most impressive about Nili, is the way she embraces her heritage and background. In a world where so many contort themselves into something they are not or ignore their birthright out of fear (or even shame), Nili is exactly what you see. She is proud of her Israeli heritage and leans into her Army service and her parents’ European background for brand and design inspiration.

When I apply the Leadership test to Nili, it's no surprise she nails it on all counts.

Learns…from customers, buyers, family, culture, the environment…from all

Empowers…women to be free of fads and true to themselves

Arms…herself and her team to win because she gives all confidence

Defends…the Brand from falling prey to “craze”or compromise

Energizes…the women who wear clothing and her entire team

Runs…she never stops…she’s gives 100% to her work and 100% to her family

Shares…there is no one more generous or modest in the fashion world

Nili worked for Ralph Lauren and is proud of what she learned from him and his brand, but one of her favorites (whose designs she also studied) was Yves Saint Laurent. Listen:

“It pains me physically to see a woman victimized, rendered pathetic by fashion”—Yves Saint Laurent

He was a leader and visionary, and so is she. That is her aesthetic. Own fewer but better. Be proud that you can go to work, rush home to be with your family, and then go to a business dinner, doing it all in one outfit that is true to your style—that empowers you to be yourself and not someone else’s idea of who you should be.

Like confusing “power” and “leadership”—in her world, it's easy to confuse “trending” with “leadership.” But not in her case.

Full confession: Nili is my friend and inspires me. She is also a leader.

What do you think?