Story: A Pilgrimage Trip to The Himalayas Along With My Mother

Story: A Pilgrimage Trip to The Himalayas Along With My Mother

Aniruddha Sarkar

18 August 2021

(Man, behind the machine: I was running around from one location to another, from project to project, while my mother was gradually ageing. I had promised her a trip to the Himalayas. Fortunately, I could keep that promise. Thus, I could also explore ancient India's spiritual ethos a bit better.)

#01

The years of 1995, 1996, and 1997 were very tough for me. Our Organization made a few delivery commitments to an Oil Sector Customer. A few key project personnel made unrealistic promises to the customer without defining the boundary or scope of a huge software delivery project. Then the key persons left the organization for greener pastures within two months leaving behind a mountain of undelivered promises!

Enter the hapless fallback delivery lead. I was pulled into this massive mess. Our Organization asked me to take over the project and deliver. I slogged day and night along with the team for two long years. Finally, we could develop and deploy the application software all over the Southern Region at around eighty-plus customer pilot locations.

By early May 1997, I returned from Chennai after a hectic engagement for over two years. The software was implemented. The Customer wanted to run it for another six months with the old and the new systems running in parallel. Another senior colleague took charge on-site while I got a breather.

Returning home was always sweet. This time, my wife was with her parents along with my two-year-old daughter. My mother ( henceforth I shall mention as Ma - Ma meaning Mother in Bengali) was approaching seventy with failing health. Father had left us five years back. I proposed to Ma to jointly go on a pilgrimage to the Himalayas.

Earlier, from time to time, we both had been discussing that. But my professional compulsions were coming in between. This time, I told her, I could manage a two-week break from my office. Let’s pack our baggage and leave for Haridwar and Rishikesh.

Ma was happy like a child. Being highly spirited all along, she said, Let’s go.

After a few seconds of thought, I asked her, at your advanced age, can you take the hassles of the journey? Already, my other family members had expressed their concerns about her fragile health.

She said, yes, I would be able to withstand that. The worst-case scenario would be, I shall die in the mountains, the Abode of Gods. That would be all right. You would perform my last rites there among the mountains by the side of the River Ganges. People would say, Babla's (my nickname) Ma went on a pilgrimage along with her son and died there in the hills. The son performed his Ma's last rites there on the bank of the holy River Ganges. She had earned her Sadgati (spiritual salvation; a happy journey after death).

Ma was always very spirited. I knew that. Although physically weak, she was mentally very strong, as always. I also felt it my duty to honour her wishes in her twilight years. I thought, let me take a plunge.

We made a quick plan. From Kolkata, we would fly to Delhi. Then we would take a comfortable bus to Haridwar. We would spend a few days in Haridwar. Then we would proceed to Rishikesh. We would spend a few more days there. And then from there, we would come back by bus to Delhi and fly back to Kolkata.

I had an LTC (Leave Travel Claim) due. Our office ADMIN facilitated procuring two air tickets for both of us. I also carried some cash I thought was sufficient for the above-mentioned plan. I was wrong in my estimation which I found out later. I should have carried 50% extra cash for any contingency which might crop up. In those days, ATMs were few and far between even in the big cities. I learned that painfully during the journey. We planned to travel light; carrying minimum luggage, mostly necessary woollen garments, to protect us from the cold.

#02

Day 1: One early morning, we took a flight to Delhi. From Delhi Airport, we took a cab to reach ISBT (Inter-State Bus Terminus). At ISBT, one Luxury Volvo Coach was leaving shortly. I purchased two tickets to Haridwar.

The bus conductor was waiting at the ticket counter. He asked me to follow him. I told him I could not move fast along with my Ma. He said he was going towards the Bus which would be waiting outside the ISBT premises. We proceeded as per his instructions. By the time we reached the pickup spot, the Bus had left! Most probably, they did not have permission to wait on the roadside for long.

We both again returned and asked the operator’s person at the counter to make a phone call to the Bus driver to come back and pick us up. He said that would not be possible. He refunded the full amount and suggested that we take a State bus to Haridwar. We thus wasted one valuable hour!

After a long gap, we left Delhi by one Delhi Transport Corporation Bus. The Bus started running at the top of its speed. At certain places in Uttar Pradesh (UP), the highways were under repair; the bus had to take detours through narrow village roads. On the way, we crossed Meerut, Muzaffarnagar, and Roorkee. After six hours, at around seven in the evening, we reached Haridwar Main State Bus Stand at Devpura.

We checked into a hotel close to the Bus Stand. It was a reasonably good hotel with excellent room services at a moderate cost. We ordered tea and some heavy snacks. Ma was feeling exhausted. After a good bath, we took tea and ate snacks. Then, I asked Ma to take some rest. I went out to survey the nearby area.

Surprises were in store for me. Out of the hotel, as I turned right, only two blocks away, the River Ganges was running with fearsome speed and sound. It was around eight in the evening. I went ahead a few steps and reached the Ghat (embankment). I looked upstream and could view several such Ghats on my left, all thoroughly illuminated and crowded. However, the opposite embankment was pitch dark.

I also visited the Devpura State Bus Stand and asked how to reach Har Ki Pauri Ghat at Haridwar. They said you take a cycle rickshaw. It is around four km. This Bus Stand area was busy even at night, with many pilgrims pouring in from various parts of the country.

As I returned and expressed my experiences outside, Ma was eager to move out. I took her to the riverside a few steps away. She was spellbound. I had to bring her back to earth. I told her the breeze here was very cold and strong. We should go back quickly. She wanted to touch the water from the Ganges.

We both went close to the stairs very carefully. It was risky. The waves were jumping high. Suddenly a large wave jumped very high and drenched us from head to foot. We could wet our heads, faces, arms, and legs with the sacred water from the holy Ganges without going down the steps. Mother Ganges came forward and blessed us with Her holy touch!

As per prevailing Hindu belief, we thus were absolved of all our Paap (Sins)?for the last several reincarnations from past re-births and earned Punya (Virtue). Ma Ganga (The holy Mother Ganges) made us Pabitra (sanctified, cleaned). The first day’s pilgrimage was fulfilled!

Back at the hotel, we had a great vegetarian dinner. The entire Haridwar maintains this norm. No killing of animals allowed. Throughout the night, I could listen to the sound of the dancing waves in my dream.

#03

Day 2: The next day, in the early morning, we got up, had our breakfast, and then took a cycle rickshaw to the Har Ki Pauri Ghat. This is the main ghat where pilgrims throng in good numbers throughout the year. We spent a couple of hours in that area, and visited many temples, Dharamshalas. After that, we started returning on foot. At one place, there was a Dada-Baudi restaurant for Bengali cuisine. This used to be a famous joint. We dropped in. Within an hour or so, we had our Bengali-style grand lunch ending with Rasgullas and Misti Doi (a kind of sweetmeat preparation very popular in Bengal).

We purposefully walked all along the riverside, crossed over a road bridge to the other side as well, and then returned by another road bridge. There were nice seating arrangements on the River Side. We spent a few hours watching the River Ganges forcing its way down the valley with great power.

We also viewed an age-old practice of evening launching of Diya's (candles) on a small floating raft from the Har Ki Pauri Ghat to the Ganges. The Diyas (candles) floated on the water and travelled very fast along with the current downstream. Several thousands of such moving Aakash Pradips, as those are popularly known in India, were a feast for the eyes of all the beholders like us during evening hours. By the late evening, we were back to the hotel, feeling a bit tired, but thoroughly satisfied and contented.

#04

Day 3: The next day, we took a ropeway trip up the Bilwa Parvat (hill) to the Mansa Devi Temple, offered our puja (prayer), had a panoramic view of the entire Haridwar, and then travelled down again by the same ropeway.

From the top, we could find that the River Ganges had branched out into two separate streams. Upstream, there was a dam that controlled the water flow and distribution between these two streams. The reason: during restoration, and renovation work, the river water flow would be diverted from the primary stream to the alternate stream.

After lunch, we took a shared horse-cart ride to Kankhal, approximately fifteen km away on the other side of the River Ganges.

For those who may be interested to know, there is a significant Hindu mythological connection to this place Kankhal.

As per mythology, in this place, Lord Siva landed at the Yajna (Sacrifice) ritual site of his father-in-law King Daksha uninvited, along with his accompanying Bhut-Pret (ghosts). He picked up the dead body of His wife Sati and started Tandava Nritya (Cosmic Dance). The entire universe was on the verge of destruction.

A little earlier, Sati had breathed her last because she could not bear anymore the repeated verbal abuses directed towards her husband Siva by her father, Daksa, the king, in that gathering.

Being concerned, all the Gods prayed to Lord Vishnu to save the Universe from destruction. Lord Vishnu used His Sudarshan Chakra (the disc of auspicious vision) to cut Sati's body into fifty-two pieces. In the places where each piece dropped, there is a Sati Peeth, a Shrine of Sati, in various names.

These Shrines are also known as Shakti Peeth, the Shrine of Strength. These shrines are scattered all over South Asia: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bhutan, and Tibet. To Hindus, these shrines are of great religious significance.

This horse-cart ride on the other side of the River Ganges through the greeneries, large mango tree plantations, forest, etc., was also very enjoyable.

#05

Day 4: The next day, we left Haridwar in the morning and reached Rishikesh twenty-four km upstream, a one-hour journey by a local bus.

We got off the bus and then crossed the River Ganges over the Lachhmanjhula (an iconic suspension bridge). There was a newly built Three Star Hotel next to a large Mango Tree Plantation. The tariffs were reasonable. We checked in and took some time to settle. We also had heavy snacks and tea.

We then went to visit the Bhutnath Mandir (Temple) which was next to this hotel, on a hillock and had thirteen floors.

As per local Hindu belief, Lord Siva stayed in this place for a night along with his accompanying ghosts, spirits, etc., before the day of Tandava Nritya at the Daksha Yajna site.

On every floor, there was a Siva Idol with different names of Lord Siva. From the top, we could get a panoramic view of the entire area. The color of the Ganges water here was green.

With a little support from me, Ma climbed the hillock, and then gradually climbed all the stairs of the thirteen-story temple up to the top! I was pleasantly surprised by her willpower and enthusiasm.

We then spent some time in the Kalikamli Dharamshala a little downstream on the bank of the River Ganges.

Earlier in the day, while getting down from the bus, I noticed one Government Tourism Office of Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) near the Rishikesh Bus Stand. Around noon, we both went there to enquire whether there was any conducted tour available.

The official there told us that a twenty-seater Bus would leave for Gangotri and Yamunotri by the next day early morning. It was a seven-night and eight-day trip.

I asked, what was the tariff? They said Rs1400/= per person including lodging at select GMVN Guest House, but excluding food.

I asked again, do you have two seats available on the Bus? They said we only have two seats empty, all the others are booked. I counted the days. It would be the twelfth day when we could return to Rishikesh. On the thirteenth day evening, we had a confirmed booking for a return flight from Delhi.

I asked again whether there was a direct Bus from Rishikesh to Delhi so that we could catch an eight o’clock flight in the evening.

They said yes, there is a daily Volvo service from Rishikesh which you can book in advance. It will drop you off around four pm at ISBT.

I had limited cash. I did not have any prior plans to go on such a trip up the Mountains. Those days, we did not have many ATMs even in the Cities, forget about Hills. So, no questions about getting extra cash in the hills. We would have to manage on a tight budget. But, if there was not much extra cost, we could survive. There was, however, a major risk factor that bugged me. If my Ma might not feel well on the way and might need medical attention, what should I do?

On my query, the GMVN official assured me, there would be local doctors on call during such emergencies. This bus and all the Guest Houses on the route were well connected over a radio-telephone network of GMVN. He also suggested that we could have our breakfast, lunch, dinner, etc., on the way, from the nearest GMVN Guest Houses. These Guest Houses had to be intimated in advance by the bus driver over the radiotelephone.

On my last question, the official also assured me that both the driver and the guide, who would accompany us, had high credentials, and experience, in their respective trades.

I asked Ma whether she would like to visit the Gangotri and Yamunotri Temples. The Mountains are calling us.

She was happy like a child. She said, Chaal, meaning let's go. I decided to go ahead. If God willing, Ma and I would offer puja at Gangotri and Yamunotri Temples located at high-altitude glacier points.

I booked two tickets. The trip would cover roughly fourteen hundred km, from Rishikesh to Rishikesh.

The GMVN official advised us to check in to the Guest House here by the same evening so that we could catch the early morning bus smoothly the next morning.

With little cash remaining, I was a bit concerned now. But seeing Ma’s enthusiasm, I forgot everything. I thought God would be arranging for cash if required. Why at all should I worry?

Learning:

Sometimes, in life, we need to leave things to chance that everything will go well, nothing will go wrong, and God is with us. With this thought, we derive immense strength, while we put a step forward. Most of the time, such conviction and willpower drive us from behind. We thus overcome our fear of the unknown.

Risk Managers may laugh at this approach.

But, the moment of truth was, I grabbed Ma’s hand with confidence and told her, let us pack our bags from the hotel and shift to this GMVN Guest House here as soon as possible. We are lucky to start tomorrow a great Yatra (holy journey) to Gangotri and Yamunotri.

Ma was extremely happy at this sudden turn of events. She was upbeat. We both could feel, the snow-clad peaks of the Himalayan Mountains beckoning us! As if, some Devine Presence from Antariksha (outer space) had taken charge of our movements!

Within half an hour, we crossed Lachhmanjhula and reached our hotel. I told the gentleman at the counter that there was an opportunity to go for a Pilgrimage Yatra tomorrow early morning by a GMVN bus. We need to check out. He said, ok, please bring your luggage from your room, we are preparing the bill.

We came back with our luggage shortly. The person now produced the bill. It was for the Morning tea and snacks only, with no room rent charged. I was surprised. I asked the reason. The gentleman said you are lucky to go on a Yatra (Pilgrimage). You have received the call from the Goddesses of Gangotri and Yamunotri. We can not charge you. Next time you visit, do stay with us.

I did not know how to express my gratitude to him for his treatment of a Yatri (Pilgrim) who was proceeding on a holy Yatra. God has His scheme of things.

We checked in to the GMVN Guest House. I also booked two Volvo Bus Tickets for the 13th day of our journey from the Bus Terminus next door. This bus would depart by eight am sharp. We would have to report at least half an hour earlier. Around four pm we should reach ISBT, Delhi. On the way, there would be a one-and-half-hour lunch break halt at a resort near Modi Nagar, I was told.

We had our dinner at GMVN Guest House dining facilities. It was a nice experience. There were many food choices including continental dishes, South Indian and North Indian delicacies, Chinese food, etc. We took simple veg. We had an exciting journey ahead, needed a good sleep, and remain fit.

Realization:

Sometimes, we may find in our lives, a few things which were not getting sorted out for long, suddenly start falling into place. All problems disappear. All conflicts are replaced by concurrence in thoughts and actions. All uncertainties become insignificant. All resource crunch deterrents are confronted by strong willpower to overcome impediments as they come. And, we start moving forward in a hitherto unthinkable direction. Is there a Divine Presence?

That day, I felt, yes, there is a Devine Presence.

#06

Day 5: The next day, we took an excellent bath in hot water and were ready by five-thirty am. The Guest House Staff had supplied us with a bucket full of hot water very early in the morning!

Outside, near the Bus, there was a gathering of Yatris from all regions of India. They booked this trip from various cities. We all got introduced to each other. The Driver and the Guide also introduced themselves. By six am sharp, we started.

We stopped over at a place called Dharasu where we had our lunch at the GMVN Guest House. Here, food quality, neatness, cleanliness, etc., were excellent while prices were moderate.

From Dharasu, the Bus took a left turn towards Yamunotri. We rapidly started gaining altitude. By the evening, we reached Hanuman Chatti at 7874 feet. We spent the night here.

Day 6:

The next day, early in the morning, we left our luggage in the individual lockers and proceeded with an extra set of dresses and towels in our backpacks. We were told that we would be spending our night in another GMVN Guest House at Janaki Chatti. We got onto the bus and travelled up to a short distance. From this point onward, there was no motorable road.

We started on our own to trek 19 km up. I walked while a strong and stoutly built young porter (Kandi) carried Ma on his back in a chair. We walked gradually up the Yamuna River valley. A few fellow travellers rode on mules or Dandi (a flat wooden platform carried by four persons). On the way, at Janaki Chatti, we had our simple full-belly lunch (Chapati-Sabji-Daal) along with the Kandi porter boy at a roadside joint.

The elevation now increased drastically. Climbing the last six km was extremely tough. However, around two pm, we reached Yamunotri Glacier Point.

There was a temple of Goddess Yamunotri next to the glacier at 10,804 feet. There was also a hot spring next to the temple. Here, people would be taking a dip in the holy water of the spring before offering puja (worship).

Water in the spring was extremely hot. We put some holy water on our heads, washed our hands and feet, then collected a Dali (puja offerings) from a shop and visited the shrine. The priest conducted the puja on our behalf.

By three pm, we started trekking down. By evening, we were at Janaki Chatti GMVN Guest House.

There was a grand arrangement waiting for us. Every room had a fireplace where wooden logs were burning. We received sufficient quilts. Food was being prepared. We all gathered on the balcony.

It was a moonlit night. Mount Yamunotri was visible in its Majestic White Snowcap. The River Yamuna was flowing through the valley within proximity to our Guest House. Moonlight was getting reflected from the waves as if millions of dancing pearls were floating around us. We could listen to the soft murmurs of the flowing water. We all were mesmerized by this awesome beauty of Nature. A few elders from our group started chanting Vedic hymns.

The Guest House Staff served us hot khichdi, fried potato, pickles, and papad. This food at that height in that Majestic Natural Glacial backdrop under a very cold condition appeared like Amrita, the Divine Food of God.

#08

Day 7: The next morning, we started walking back for the remaining thirteen km, gradually losing altitude.

By eleven o’clock we all were on the bus. In the next half an hour we reached Hanuman Chatti, collected our luggage from the lockers, and then started moving down the hills. By the afternoon, we reached Uttarkashi GMVN Guest House.

Ma was feeling exhausted. She took complete rest for the night. I was thinking of dropping the plan to visit Gangotri the next morning. Anyway, the bus would travel back in a few days. Ma would receive a solid rest here and be ready to go back to Rishikesh.

#09

Day 8: The next morning, Ma got up early and said, I am feeling ok. I shall go to Gangotri. I asked, are you sure? She said, Yes sure, I am ready. You also get ready.

In a hurry, I also got ready and packed our luggage. By then all the other Yartis had taken their seats on the bus. Seeing my Ma coming and boarding the bus, all the Yatris started chanting in tandem, 'Jai Ma Gangotri Devi ki Jai' (meaning Mother Gangotri Devi is Gracious)!

Till today, I do not know from where Ma recouped her strength within a few hours. But she was smiling and talking to everyone as if nothing happened last night.

A few of the Yatris told me, don’t worry, we are carrying some medicines with us. And, we also spoke to the GMVN Management last night. They have already alerted the Doctor stationed at Gangotri. So, for any issue, there would be medical support from an expert medical practitioner.

Around noon, we reached a place known as Harsil. Here, many major peaks of the Garhwal Himalayas are visible in proximity. GMVN had a Guest House here as well. We dropped here for a lunch break.

River Ganga flowed at this spot in two divided streams. GMVN built the Guest House on an island between the two streams of the Ganges. We had to cross a small wooden bridge to reach there.

One gentleman from Chennai started chanting Sanskrit Hymns from the Vedas. Ma also started chanting "Om Jabakusuma Shankasana Kashyapeyang Mahadhyutim.....", the Surya Stab (hymn), the Prayer for the Sun God. She used to regularly chant this hymn at home after a morning bath with folded hands looking in the direction of the rising Sun.

We took multiple photographs. After a very good lunch break, we started proceeding toward Gangotri.

By the evening we got down from the bus near the Gangotri Temple at an elevation of 11,204 ft.

The GMVN Guest House was very spacious at Gangotri. It was on the opposite side of the Main Gangotri temple. In between, down below, the River Ganges was flowing at a formidable speed.

There was a river bridge. We crossed over to the other side. All were allotted large Twin-sharing rooms. There were heating arrangements inside each room. Ma was feeling quite comfortable by then. All the other ladies came to visit her. They started exchanging. One lady was from Chennai. She was speaking in broken Hindi. Ma was speaking Bengali. Surprises, they were communicating well. I quietly left the room.

Outside, there was a large gathering of all the male members. They all were enquiring about my Ma's health. I told them, Ma is okay now. She is also very busy right away. All the ladies were dropping in to speak to her.

By then, a mutual friendship had emerged. We were feeling so close. There was an octogenarian lady from Gujrat. Her late husband was a well-known freedom fighter. Now, all her sons were well-established. A few of them were staying in foreign countries. Interestingly, all the brothers were attending this tour. This was the largest family unit in our group. they requested all those who would stay back to take care of their mother for one night, i.e., on the next night, while they would be away at the Gomukh. Later, I found that quite a few group members also opted to stay back.

#10

Day 9: The next early morning, half of the group members rode on mules’ back and left for Gomukh, the glacier point, from where the River Ganges emerges. It was a long tough journey. They left very early.

I stayed back with Ma. We offered our puja (prayers) to the Devi Gangotri Temple.

There was a Bhagirath Sheela, a huge Black Stone, by the side of the Temple, next to the River. Ma asked me to offer Pindas (food and water offerings) to all my past forefathers. I requested a priest to conduct the Puja. I also arranged all the puja materials. The priest conducted the ritual to offer Pindas next to Bhagirath Sheela. Finally, I floated all the Pindas', one after another, into the River Ganges. Bhagirath Sheela remained the witness.

There is a Hindu legend that Bhagirath, the great-grandson of King Sagar of the Ikshvaku dynasty, did Tapasya (penance) of Lord Siva to allow Devi Ganga (Mother Ganges) to land on His Jata (piled up matted hair) from Heaven. Lord Siva gave consent. Devi Ganga thus came to earth with a big impact that was absorbed by Lord Siva. Then Bhagirath led the way as Mother Ganga followed him from the Himalayas up to the sea ( near Ganga Sagar, West Bengal, at the Bay of Bengal). Kapil Muni's ( Muni meaning sage) curse was reversed. Sixty Thousand forefathers of Bhagirath were thus absolved of the curse.

Thus, Pinda Daan (offering the Pindas) to forefathers, a Hindu Ritual, with Bhagirath Sheela as the witness, is of immense religious significance to Hindus.

Next, I proceeded on foot towards Cheerbasa and Bhujbasa, while Ma rested in the GMVN Guest House. It was around 11 am. I took a local guide and kept on walking fast. I was already late. By the time I covered half the distance on the way to Gomukh, a strong wind started blowing, pulling down large boulders from high mountains. The road got blocked. Around two pm, I had to return from a place very close to Bhujbasa after trekking about ten km all along Gouri-Sringa, the Gouri Mountain Range.

My only solace was, on the way, I could view the majestic Shibling peak from a very close range.

By the late evening, after a twenty km trek, I was back at the GMVN Guest House. Ma was then talking to the octogenarian Gujarati lady. Both were speaking in their mother tongue. But surprises again, they could mutually communicate their thoughts!

I realized one truth:

If there is a cultural bonding, language will never become a barrier.

Later, in the night, Ma told me about the Tamil lady as well as about the Gujarati lady and their families.

A few months later, while on an official assignment to Chennai, I visited this Tamil family at their T-Nagar residence. I handed over a set of photographs of our Yatra to this couple. Both were very happy to meet me. Ma told me a few things about this family which I also came to know directly from them during this visit. This couple was sad. They did not have any children.

Back to the present story. At night, I crosschecked with all the senior citizens whether they would need anything, say food, hot milk, or any other item. All of them said they were taken care of well by the Guest House staff. So, they don’t have any further requirements.

#11

Day 10: The next early morning we teamed up to visit a place known as Pandu Gumpha ( meaning Pandava Cave), which was located around three and a half km downstream on our side of the Guest House.

As per Mahabharata, the great Hindu epic, all five Pandava brothers spent one night at this cave before leaving for Maha Prasthan (meaning the last exit from this Earth on their way to Heaven). As the mythology goes, only Judhisthir, the first Pandava, who was always following the path of Dharma (righteousness), could make it to Heaven without dying while all the other Pandavas along with their wife Draupadi, fell on the way. Unlike Judhisthir, they all had some deviations from the path of Dharma.

We entered the cave by almost crawling. One young Sadhu (Saint) greeted us. It was dark inside the cave. Only a few Diyas (lamps) were burning. We asked the young Sadhu a couple of questions. He answered those. Here are a few Q&A.

Our Question:

Is it required that we need to leave Sansar (family life) and stay like a sage in a cave to seek the Truth?

Answer by the Sadhu:

No. it is not necessary. You can do that even while you are living in Sansar. You have to live like a lotus leaf that holds water droplets. The lotus leaf does not get any mark of water while holding droplets. The Earthly Maya (illusions from this physical world) should not touch you.

Our Question:

Did any of you see God?

Answer by the Sadhu:

Many of the Sadhus here are in their advanced stages of Sadhana (meditation). They have some spiritual realization of Param Bhramha (that which is beyond all descriptions and conceptualizations)

Our Question:

How should we live our lives?

Answer by the Sadhu:

Live life with complete detachment. Do not expect any return from anyone or anything.

I also asked, would you please talk about your earlier life, Purbashram, (life before being a Sadhu)?

He said he was from Midnapore, West Bengal, did his Masters from Kolkata University, and then left home for his spiritual pursuits.

We spent some quiet time listening to him. These Sadhus need to walk two km down to get river water. Leopards, other wild animals, etc., sometimes would come at night and try to enter the cave. However, there was no incident of any harm by animals to any Sadhus reported so far.

Bhaktas (followers) from the Gangotri Temple bring food for them. Sometimes, if they can not come, these Sadhus survive on fruits from the dense forest. During winter, the temple is closed. The idol is shifted to a lower altitude for daily worship. These Sadhus have to survive here with heavy snowfall all around.

He also said, there are many such solitary caves where Sadhus are doing their meditation for months together.

On the way back, we met a team of Sadhus who were proceeding towards Pandu Gumpha. We requested a group photo with them. They agreed. All stood in a row under the trees in a semi-dark location. I took two photographs. Later, after returning to Kolkata, as I developed the negatives and printed those, I had a surprise. All the sadhus had an aura around them. The remaining persons from our group who were also there in the photographs did not have the aura. Both the photographs captured the same aura.

#12

Day 11: The next day, early in the morning, we left Gangotri for Uttar Kashi. It was a long journey. In between, at KMVN Guest House at Harsil on the way, we had a technical halt. Some person from our group left his camera in the Guest House by mistake during the onward journey. Later, over radiotelephone, the Guest House staff confirmed that. The Guest House staff kept the Camera under safe custody. The person concerned collected his expensive camera during the return journey.

We reached Uttarkashi in the afternoon.

After some rest, I wanted to make a call at home from a public telephone booth outside the GMVN premises. Ma accompanied me. I called up my cousin-brother to tell him that we both were doing fine. We were at Uttarkashi. We would be reaching Rishikesh by the next day afternoon. The day after next, we had a return flight from Delhi. My brother assured me that he would be arranging a local cab to pick us up from the airport.

Then, Ma also spoke to my cousin-brother.

It was around eight pm. I asked Ma, do you want to visit the River Side? There was a beautiful Siva Temple there. Local people said Adi Sankaracharya came from South India and stayed in this temple for a long time. All pilgrims who visit various pilgrimage sites also visit this temple.

Ma was very happy to reach the temple. Down below, the Ganges was flowing with formidable speed. We offered puja in the temple. Then Ma asked me, do you have some extra money? I asked why do you say that? She said, I know, you might be running out of money by now. Will it be possible for you to pay some money for tonight’s food for all the Sadhus who are staying here?

I said, let me check. I did some quick math to find out my upcoming expenses. Yes, I could spare some extra cash for the said purpose. Ma felt very happy. We two approached the Sadhus who were staying inside an enclosed area guarded by a fence. One Sadhu listened to us from behind the fence. He said, you please wait. I am calling the Mahatma (meaning a great Soul).

After a short while, a very tall and calm Sadhu appeared. He was in his advanced age. Even then, he bowed his head and touched the feet of Ma, and said, Pranaam Mataji.

Ma once again expressed her wish in pure Bengali. Mahatma folded his hands. I passed on the money in Ma’s hand. She handed over the money to Mahatma with humility. All the Sadhus present there started chanting, Jai Mataji ki Jai. While returning, I had a feeling I could view a special aura around this Mahatma. My Ma also noticed that. Later she told me that this Sadhu is very much a part of God.

With great satisfaction, we two returned to the KMVN Guest House.

We had a very good dinner. At night, there was a get-together in another room where we sang songs, recited poems, cracked jokes, and shared short stories and experiences. It was something like a campfire situation, I apologized and took leave a little early. Ma was there in the room alone.

#13

Day 12: Early morning, we started from Uttar Kashi. We crossed Tehri, passed by the Dam construction site, and in the evening, we reached Rishikesh.

Day 13: The next morning, we had a nice complimentary breakfast in the GMVN cafeteria at Rishikesh. Then while checked out, we received a great gift, four large bottles full of squash of various flavours. All were forest department products. The staff also gave me a special receipt cum certificate which would enable me to claim LTC from my organization.

By quarter to eight o’clock in the morning, we were at the Rishikesh Bus Stand. While occupying seats I found out there were two wings with an aisle in the middle. One wing was for the gents to sit. The other wing was for the ladies to sit. So, I had to take a window seat on the right side while Ma sat on the left side.

One dhoti-kurta-clad middle-aged gentleman occupied my adjacent seat. He smiled at me and said Namaste.

I also said Namaste. We started talking. This gentleman was from the UK. He had made over twenty visits to India. In all those visits, he made it a point to visit the Himalayas. He said he finds spiritualism in India had percolated at the grassroots level. He finds virtues deeply embedded in ordinary people’s lives and actions.

He had been studying Sanskrit scriptures in some Vedic schools. He had been practising Yoga for quite some time. He said that to learn a few more things, he was required to come to the Himalayas a few more times. I was thoroughly impressed by the experiences he narrated.

Somewhere between Modi Nagar and Delhi, the bus halted in a resort for an hour and a half. We had a lunch break. That turned out to be a wonderful experience. This campus had neat and clean facilities, excellent services, great food, a huge shopping plaza, affordable night stay options, etc. I was now relaxed. We were just one hour of travelling distance from Delhi.

Finally, we reached ISBT Delhi. Our nearly six-hour journey came to a close. I again said Namaste to my UK-based co-passenger and wished him a safe journey back home. We finally bade adieu to him.

Ma and I took a cab to reach New Delhi Domestic Airport. After a two-hour wait, we boarded a flight to Kolkata. Interestingly, our hand baggage this time included all four squash bottles nicely wrapped and placed inside exclusive carry bags from GMVN. We carefully placed those squash-filled glass bottles on the seating space in between the two of us with pillows as cushions. Putting those inside the overhead luggage hold could have been disastrous. We did not risk that.

Around ten o’clock at night, we landed in Kolkata. A local neighbourhood boy from Bally Rural Area was waiting with his vehicle in the cab area. By midnight, we reached home safely.

Next few days, Ma greeted all the neighbours, and guests with squash from the Forest Department, Govt of UP (now Govt of Uttarakhand). Those soft drinks of various flavours were a big hit with all the guests.

#14

If you ask me, I still believe there are pockets of higher spiritual experiences and cosmic wisdom available in the lonely caves and deep forests of the Himalayas. No present-day din and bustle can reach there.

Before I end, I would like to mention here one important point. Ma came back with one of her long-cherished wishes fulfilled. Later, she survived for almost a decade. I still consider this a blessing from Debatatma Himalaya, the Abode of Gods and Goddesses.

Dear Reader, consider packing your bags and taking this trip, preferably along with your family including your ageing parents. It may turn out to be an experience of a lifetime.

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