Experiences in Travel Abroad-34:Sea Voyage to Cyprus and Some History

34. To Cyprus - A Sea Voyage and a Little History

35. ?

We could have flown to Cyprus from Adana, but we opted for a sea voyage. Our luggage, shipped from America, was quite heavy, and since neither of us had ever travelled by ship, we were eager for the experience. A three-hour bus ride from Adana took us to the ancient port of Mersin, where ferries depart for Cyprus. Our pleasant memories of whale-watching boat trips in America influenced our decision, though we soon realized the reality would be quite different.

We had to leave our previous accommodations abruptly, losing half a year's advance rent. Our furniture was sold for a pittance, and the rest was given away. So, with thirteen pieces of luggage, including boxes and blankets, we boarded the bus, bidding a tearful farewell to Turkey (my wife actually cried on the journey). A fifteen-minute van ride from the bus station brought us to the port. A large ferry awaited, capable of carrying even cars on its lower deck. Several affluent students were driving their BMWs, Renaults, and Benzes aboard. Many passengers carried an assortment of belongings, including, rather surprisingly, brooms. The reason for this became clear later.

The ferry was packed with passengers. The air conditioning was broken, and with the doors and windows closed due to rough seas, it was sweltering. Every seat was occupied. Shortly after departure, many passengers succumbed to seasickness, including my wife, who curled up on my lap, unable to lift her head. People were vomiting into plastic bags. After a truly dreadful voyage, we finally arrived at the port of Cyprus at 5:30 PM. Many of our fellow passengers were students heading to Cypriot universities. After customs, we were transported for an hour in a university vehicle to our accommodation, a two-story building shared with other foreign teachers. It could house eight people, but we were the only family; the other residents were all single, representing various nationalities: Ukraine, Azerbaijan, Russia, Germany, and others. We and our friend were the only Asians.

Cyprus is divided. We arrived in Northern Cyprus, which is under Turkish control. The island lies in the Mediterranean Sea, south of Turkey. The name "Cyprus" is believed to derive either from the Greek goddess of love, Aphrodite, or from the abundant copper deposits mined there in antiquity. The island was once a haven for pirates and, due to its strategic importance, later became a British colony. Northern Cyprus is predominantly inhabited by Turkish Muslims, while the southern and western regions, closer to Greece, are mostly populated by Greek Cypriot Christians. The island is known for its abundant citrus fruits and grapes.

The British, whose empire was once said to be "one on which the sun never sets," eventually relinquished control of Cyprus, leaving behind a legacy of unresolved conflict, much like they did in India. To prevent clashes between Muslims and Christians, the Cypriot government, with Turkey and Greece as mediators and Britain as the arbiter, established a constitution protecting the rights of both communities. Cyprus gained independence in 1960. For a time, relations between the two groups remained relatively peaceful. However, the situation deteriorated under Archbishop Makarios's presidency, as he began systematically removing Muslims from government positions, starting with the police force. This sparked protests, and despite warnings from Turkey and the British government, Makarios continued his authoritarian policies. In 1974, Turkey intervened militarily, occupying the northern part of Cyprus, claiming to protect the rights of Turkish Cypriot Muslims. The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus was subsequently established, although it received recognition only from Turkey and, later, Pakistan. This is the Northern Cyprus where we now reside.