Everest Trek Day 5:: Cable Cars, Where Art Thou? My Uphill Struggle to Tengboche

Yesterday, I stumbled upon?the?one and only Yakbuck Coffee in Namche. Yep, even out here in the Himalayas, the universe refuses to let me shake my Starbucks habit. Who needs corporate chains when a yak-themed coffee shop’s got your back?

Last night’s sleep was pure bliss, even though the temperature dipped to a cozy -2°C. Dinner was a thrilling medley of veggies, Chapathi (for those unacquainted: think Indian bread with a side of soul), and soup.

This morning, I kicked off with Tibetan bread and cheese. Naturally, I followed that with a liter of water—because, fun fact, staying hydrated at 4,000 meters is as important as your coffee on a Monday morning.

Now, today's weather? A brisk -1°C. Time to dig into those layers, folks. And shoutout to the Landi Wetter App from Switzerland—it’s out here in the Himalayas flexing harder than Apple ever could.

The mission for today: Tengboche, with extra credit if I drag myself another 90 minutes to Pangboche (3,980 meters). No big deal, right?

Bir (my trusty guide and now high-altitude life coach) and I set off at 7 AM. We meandered through town just in time to catch the first rays of sun hitting the 7,000-meter giant, Ama Dablam. It's stunning—though my photos suggest I may need to work on my camera skills.

The trek starts deceptively flat, winding around a plateau with epic mountain views. Bir, however, was more focused on checking if I was still alive. "Are you okay? Are you breathing?" he asked me about 16 times in the first hour. “Dude, I’m good! Even my mom doesn’t ask this much,” I replied. “You’re at 3,500 meters,” he says, dead serious. “You don’t breathe, you die.” Alrighty then, no pressure! Message received, no Tom Cruise Mission Impossible stunts today.

For real though, altitude is no joke. They actually have to evacuate people from these trails for ignoring basic trekking smarts. Quick science break: At sea level, air has about 20% oxygen. Up here at 4,000 meters? You’re getting around 12%, and it drops to 9% at 5,000 meters. So yeah, breathing becomes a full-time job.

The trail lulled me into a false sense of security for about 30 minutes, but then—bam!—a steep descent. Which means one thing: there's an equally gnarly ascent waiting for us on the other side. Down 400 meters to the Koshi River, then up 550 meters to reach Tengboche. The uphill? An absolute beast. One foot in front of the other, that’s all my brain could handle. Honestly, if Nepal had teamed up with my Swiss buddies, there’d be a cable car for this part. But, I guess earning the Everest views requires a little suffering.

On the way up, I snapped a pic of a sherpa carrying a bag the size of a small car. So before you start packing 16 pairs of pants, just remember this guy is hauling everything, uphill, while you’re gasping for air. Rayna Nutakki Anya Nutakki , this bag wouldn't even fit your makeup and boots for a week’s vacay!

At the top, Tengboche Monastery greeted us in all its colorful, serene beauty. It’s like a postcard, with prayers at 5 AM and 3 PM, for those who like to meditate?and?freeze in the dark.

As I passed the village of Deboche, I spotted my first mammal of the trip—a musk deer, casually ignoring me. Then it was off to cross the Imja Khola River, followed by—guess what?—yet another uphill climb. Because why not?

Finally, Pangboche! Not as dramatic a climb as Tengboche, but still a solid workout. Tonight’s forecast? Temperatures dropping below zero. But hey, the tea room has a bed, decent food, and a toilet. Indoor plumbing—luxury!

Speaking of tea rooms, they’re the trekking version of bed-and-breakfasts but with fewer frills and more survival instincts. Basic rooms, no heating, but two beds—enough for me to pass out after a long day. The common area is where all the action happens, with a wood burner and simple meals that taste like gourmet after you’ve climbed a few hundred meters. Fun fact: These tea rooms are the lifeblood of the local economy, but COVID hit this region hard with border closures from India, China, and Nepal.

As for tomorrow, I’ll be climbing deeper into the 4,000-meter range and hopefully get a peek at some snow-capped peaks. But the big Everest view? That’ll have to wait for Sunday.

And here are the numbers :: *(can’t forget data)

• Start:?Namche Bazaar (11,286 ft / 3,440 m)
• End:?Pangboche (13,074 ft / 3,985 m)
• Distance:?9.4 mi / 15.12 km
• Day’s elevation change:?+3,500 ft / +1,007 meters
• Flights Climbed (Apple Watch) : 256
• Mood : Feel Awesome