???? EU's revised Waste Framework Directive ???mandates textile collection for reuse and recycling, with higher fees for fast fashion

No excuses—just action and accountability.

As someone who has worked extensively within the Apparel and Textiles industry and now serves as an EU Climate Pact Ambassador, I am particularly excited about the recent developments in the EU Council's revision of the Waste Framework Directive, with a strong emphasis on textile waste management.

Textile sector

The current waste framework directive, already in force since 2008, obliges member states to ensure the separate collection of textiles for re-use, preparation for re-use and recycling by 1 January 2025. The updated directive brings a comprehensive approach to tackling waste in the textile sector. The mandate for the separate collection of textiles for reuse and recycling by January 2025 is a significant milestone. By the end of 2028, we could see specific targets for waste prevention, collection, and recycling in the textile sector.

Extended producer responsibility

The introduction of harmonized extended producer responsibility (EPR) schemes under this proposal is a crucial development. Fashion brands and textile producers will now be required to pay fees to help fund textile waste collection and treatment costs, with the level of fees based on the circularity and environmental performance of textile products (known as eco-modulation). As preventing waste is the best option, the general approach sets out that member states can require higher fees for companies following ‘fast fashion’ industrial and commercial practices.

"The general approach aims to prevent waste from fast fashion and to facilitate re-use. It also sets ambitious targets to significantly reduce food waste by 2030. Given the food and textile sectors are the first and the fourth most resource-intensive respectively, today's agreement represents a crucial step towards a more sustainable and circular European economy." Alain Maron, minister of the Government of the Brussels-Capital Region, responsible for climate change, environment, energy and participatory democracy?

Additionally, the directive makes provisions for member states where there is a higher share of textile products assessed as fit for reuse, allowing for lower fees for commercial reuse operators.

Social economy entities

Social economy entities, including charities and social enterprises, play a key role in existing textile collection systems, and the directive allows them to maintain their separate collection points with reduced administrative burdens.

Background

The EU generates 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste per year. Clothing and footwear alone account for 5.2 million tonnes of waste, equivalent to 12 kg of waste per person every year. Currently, only 22% of such waste is collected separately for re-use or recycling, while the rest is often incinerated or landfilled.

On 5 July 2023 the European Commission presented a proposal to revise the waste framework directive, specifically targeting the food and textile sectors. The overall aim of the proposal is to reduce the environmental and climate impacts associated with textile and food waste generation and management.

This initiative is more than just a policy update; it's a crucial step towards fostering a more sustainable and circular economy in Europe. This is sending a clear message about the importance of sustainable production —the EU is paving the way for significant reductions in the environmental and climate impacts of waste.

Find out more here: https://www.consilium.europa.eu/en/press/press-releases/2024/06/17/waste-framework-directive-council-set-to-start-talks-on-its-revision/

I hope this helps :)

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