Ensuring Fair and Accurate Environmental Footprint Assessments in Apparel & Footwear

The Apparel & Footwear sector is under increasing pressure to reduce its environmental footprint, but it’s essential that the tools we use to measure this are accurate and fair.

A recent press release from key industry organizations, including the International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), highlights concerns over the current Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCR) for Apparel & Footwear, which are used to assess the environmental impact of clothing and footwear.

The core issue lies in the method used to calculate a product’s ‘Duration of Service,’ or how long a product lasts. The current PEFCR assigns default values to the number of times an item can be worn, without distinguishing between material quality, design, or actual use. This approach risks distorting the environmental impact of durable, well-made products, which may be used far more frequently than the default values suggest.

>> There are significant challenges with the current methodology:

. Limited Reflection of Real-World Usage: The current system doesn’t account for how long well-crafted products can actually last.

. Potential Disincentives for Sustainability: Shorter-lived products made from materials like polyester may seem more sustainable under the current model, though they may not be in the long run.

. Natural Materials at a Disadvantage: The methodology often penalizes natural fibers, which could affect the competitiveness of industries committed to sustainable practices.

It's vital that any system assessing environmental impact encourages both durability and the use of sustainable, natural materials. Moving forward, it's essential that PEFCR methodologies are reviewed and refined to reflect the realities of product use and better align with global sustainability goals.

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