The Elegant Classroom

If you still think serious wine drinkers are only those who know how to pronounce terroir, who book for tutored wine tastings, belong to a wine club and spend significant cash on a good vintage to mature for a few years, you are in for a surprise. And if you think those who don’t tick these boxes, aren’t serious about wine, you are mistaken. There’s plenty of research on wine consumer trends, but are we really listening to them when we introduce our wines?

I consider myself informed about the wine industry and wine consumer trends, but often we might be so caught up with all the trend talk and consumer reports that we forget to see what is right in front of our eyes. When reports and studies (and there are many of them) refer to Generation X and Millennials, I often think of “younger” people, but Millennials and Gen X’ers are between 28 and 59! They are the majority of the salary earning and potential wine drinking community! Who they are, what they like and how they choose to spend their money, do not indicate future trends, it is what is currently happening. And while the poor state of the economy and all kinds of existential uncertainties might cloud our reasoning, can it be that the slowdown in wine sales that most of my friends in the local wine industry are concerned about, might also be because we are still trying to sell wine to a wine drinker that while still important, is not the predominant profile anymore?

A group between 28 and 59 years of age allow for a spectrum of life stages, but according to an interesting article on winebusiness.com these wine drinkers have something in common. They want to be entertained rather than educated, even though it might be for different reasons. Some might be young and seeking fun. Others might be overworked and stressed seeking escapism, but if this article is correct, our current target market does enjoy wine and is happy to spend on wine. Does this mean we can relax? Perhaps not. There are many factors out of our control: the choice of drinks is big and enticing, the wellness aspect has become more important and alcohol has always been contentious, also there are the aforementioned economic factors. So, what can we do? At least we can ensure that we focus on the right audience and speak to them in a way they respond to. Can it be that we are talking about quality, investment and fine dining to pensioners while we are patronising our main consumer with lessons on wine and fun labels that we think appeal to “young” people?

The traditional, serious wine drinker does exist, and the wine industry loves them. Not only because they buy wine, but because they think the way we do. We know how to talk to them, they appreciate the well-informed wine tasting ambassador and the elegant, quiet tasting room. But perhaps if we want to appeal to most of our current consumer base, we need to rethink this approach. The first place to start might be on your own farm and in your own tasting room. I do believe we manage to comply with guest expectations when it comes to the diversity of our wine tourism offering. Tourists to the SA wine estates are spoilt for choice. You should be able to find something to your style and liking – from fine dining to casual, family-friendly and alfresco eateries. Relaxed lawn games to mountainside hikes and horse-riding. Specialised winelands tour guides, fun tuk-tuk’s, e-bikes and very successful wine trams! Wine estates have art galleries, gift shops, bakeries, pump tracks, gardens to explore, jungle gyms… How can we question the entertainment value of our offering?

I believe we do put the focus on entertainment even when there are plenty of opportunities for education during most of these wine tourism activities. But, and perhaps this is our challenge, can it be that our wine tasting rooms are still intimidating and not geared for a fun experience? We’ve managed to translate our passions and traditions into entertainment, but other than pouring wine in pretty spots and doing the odd sabrage, have we managed to make the wine experience less educational and more enjoyable? I can’t help but feel this is an aspect where we might be lacking.

Is your tasting room just an elegant classroom? Even as I try to write how we should invite fun into the tasting room, I struggle. Won’t it be disruptive having children running around? How do you identify the nuances of your Chardonnay if the next table is opening a basket of garlic bread? Isn’t much of the appreciation of wine to understand that the flavours have developed because of the vintage conditions and the terroir and the winemaker’s choice of barrel maturation? Aren’t these aspects interesting to people who enjoy wine? Of course! That is why we have wine tastings. And I do believe even when you aren’t looking for an education, if you enjoy wine, these facts might interest you. Perhaps most of it is in the presentation. Perhaps the decor and the host can make a difference. A lighter, brighter or cosier environment? A charming, informed, but fun presentation? Separate areas for serious sippers? Can this be it? Perhaps the answer is really simple or perhaps, quite complex?

Perhaps the way we present our wines has not kept up with the way we present our wine estates. Perhaps owners and managers should swap a Boardroom Monday for a Tasting Room Saturday and see who is driving out to our estates to taste our wine. Do they look like they are enjoying the experience? Are they buying wine?