Easy-To-Use Guide to Buying Fancy Shape Diamonds: Part 2-Step and Mixed Cuts

"When buying diamonds, the 4Cs help in deciding quality and value. But there is another factor that plays its part too - the diamond shape. Shape, defined as the face-up outline of the gem, while being an absolute expression of one's individual style and heart's desire, it has its own influence on the visible appearance of the diamond. Knowing what to look for or avoid can help make better decisions along with the 4Cs."

In Part 1, we covered fancy shape diamonds with brilliant cutting styles. Here, we will talk about diamonds with step and mixed cutting styles.

Part 2: Step Cut and Mixed Cut Diamonds:

Step cuts have been here long before brilliant cuts came along. The first ever diamond cut was a step cut. Step cuts are different in appearance from the brilliant diamonds offering a different gleam compared to the sparkle of brilliant diamonds, largely due to their long and sleek lines.

Emerald (Step) Cut:

Emerald cuts diamonds are generally rectangular as they are mostly cut from long pieces of rough. With rows of facets running parallel from the girdle, they are four sided with beveled corners. The look of an emerald cut is elegant and understated. It has less 'flash'or reflections than the brilliant cuts, but well-cut emeralds offer a subtle gleam that just lifts the entire appearance. The term emerald cut is traditionally associated with rectangular shapes so if it is square, it is described as square emerald cut.

What you should look for:

- The overall quality and cut of an emerald cut should be fairly high, as due to the clean lines and lack of faceting it reveals the inclusions fairly easily.

- Cut is another factor. The stone's table shouldn't be too big and the depth from girdle down (pavilion) shouldn't be too deep.

- In terms of symmetry, the opposing girdle outlines should run parallel and the 4 corners should be of even sizes.

Asscher (Step) Cut:

The Asscher cut developed prior to 1910 is a variation of the emerald cut. It was popular decades ago and has gained popularity again in recent times. The modern Asscher cut is similar to a square emerald cut, although with its smaller table, larger steps and higher crown, it produces more brilliance and dispersion than the emerald cut.

What you should look for:

- A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table as a result of symmetrical pavilion facets.

- Since asscher is a square cut, the corners shouldn't be too wide, else it gives it an octagonal appearance.

Baguette (Step) Cut:

A straight baguette is a relatively small and elongated diamond that is usually rectangular in shape, with rows of step facets running parallel to the girdle on both crown and pavilion. The sides of baguettes can be parallel or could also taper towards each other on the length.

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 If you have a question or insights to share or would like to know more about diamond cuts, leave a comment below.