A Dream Trip from Darwin's Heat to Norway's Icy Magic

After our wedding in August 2023, we tried to work out what, where, and when to honeymoon. I think it is worth mentioning here that Darwin was particularly humid and gross during this build-up, and I was instantly pleased that we had pre-planned a trip to the complete opposite! Initially, we were tossing up between lazy cocktails on a tropical island or doing something adventurous that we would likely never do again, like a bucket list trip. We figured we lived in a hot climate, so realistically, we could laze around in the heat at any time, so we settled on a bucket list adventure.

As fate would have it, a two-for-one deal through TripADeal popped up as if the universe was conspiring to make our dream a reality. At the time, we were worried about the financial spend after just having a wedding be able to book, so we just ignored it, and then it sold out. But then, lo-and-behold, it popped up again, I strategically caught Dallas in a weak moment and just booked it… without really him having much of a say. Spontaneous bookings are the best because I can guarantee that if I did not book anything then and there, we would not have done anything as there is always something else to do, something pops up, or something inevitably takes your energy and time.

I know we often procrastinate about booking things or worry if something pops up or there is something that we need to do, but seriously, the longer you procrastinate, the worse it gets, and then you never do anything as it is too late. So I say, book it! You can just deal with the consequences/planning later. If it is something you want to do, and financially you can, do not delay. You never know what might happen, and you don't want to live with the regrets of wishing you had done stuff.

We were set by the end of September 2023, with our trip booked and brimming with excitement. Dallas took a bit longer to get excited than I did; he was extremely nervous about the cold and how we would cope, but I also got excited quickly and easily, so I was super pumped! Unprepared but super pumped!

We left the Territory on December 28 to begin our (long flight) journey, a honeymoon starkly contrasting our daily lives. We dreamt of a world beyond the relentless heat, although we both had reservations about how cold it would be as there was news of a Siberian Storm ripping through. But we were both super excited about a place where the sky dances with colours unseen in our part of the world. Our destination: The Norwegian Coast on the North Cape Express, with its promise of the Northern Lights, a spectacle that had long been a wish etched in our (my) bucket list.

Notably, and this is worth noting, do not be fooled by the idea that "you are guaranteed to see the lights!" It is like going on a fishing charter and being guaranteed to catch a fish! The cruise before us did not see them at all, we were ever so lucky to have four amazing nights with each night getting better and better as we inched closer to the Arctic Circle.

The comprehensive package covered international flights, transfers, accommodation, all food and alcohol on board, and the much-anticipated Hurtigruten experience on the MS Trollfjord. Initially opting for a standard room, two single beds (one a sofa fold out) with a tiny porthole, we soon realised upon boarding that an upgrade was necessary; it was our honeymoon after all —a decision we never regretted, especially as I get up early and like to make a coffee. This game changer allowed me to get up without annoying Dallas (which I still did), sit and look out the window, and relax without just sitting in bed peaking because I wanted to get up but could not. We also really enjoy just each others company, so for us just chilling in our room was awesome.

Our honeymoon story begins in Perth, which we flew to first. We boarded Qatar Airways to Oslo via a 3-hour stop-over in Doha. Doha looks impressive from the sky, and now I want to explore the Middle East.

After 26 hours, we landed in Oslo and then had to catch a domestic flight to Bergen. Please avoid getting caught out like we did. We thought our bags, and everything was organised to go straight to Bergen, but no, we were a little blasé and tired and had to get our bags from international and make our way to Domestic (thankfully in the same terminal) with about 40 minutes to spare, the only reason we worked this out is becasue we went to go into the lounge and they were like, ummmm you need to go to the domestic lounge. The gate numbers were the same in International to Domestic so we wrongly assumed we were all good!

Finally, we were in Bergen, where we spent a couple of nights adjusting to the climate.

Dallas and I excitedly boarded the MS Trollfjord, a gem in the Hurtigruten fleet. Unlike the vast Royal Caribbean cruises we have been on before, this ship, with around 250 passengers, felt intimate, personalised and cosy. It had three restaurants, a bar, a sauna, a shop, a lecture hall, and even a gym—truly an expedition cruising experience.

We were a bit worried at the start, as we had been on the big ships before and wondered what we would do to stay entertained! But we immediately felt more relaxed and made many friends, which enhanced our experience.

The process to get on and off the boat was so smooth and easy due to being a smaller ship. docking into ports was quick and we were off the ship every single day which also meant we had activities to keep us occupied and entertained.

We let the team know it was our honeymoon (as you do), and after our first night, we were greated with a lovely surprise!

Dallas got to play chess with a couple of guys, and I got to drink in my room with one of the wives! It was perfect!

Oh, and if I did not mention it before (which I did), the upgrade made hanging out in our room more fun, which I did most nights with Katy Commisso , who is from Canada and was also on her honeymoon. Having friends made the adventure even more memorable, but also meant to alcohol consumption was upped.

Our first days were spent exploring Molde and R?rvik. In Molde, we wandered freely, absorbing the scenery at our leisure - we were too late for the excursion as by the time we wanted to book, it was all booked out. (check my tips on this point!)

R?rvik offered an exciting excursion hike guided by Julian (onboard staff member and well-versed in multiple languages), where every step revealed the natural splendour of Norway. We even got a rare glimpse of the sun, which Julian said would be the last! We slid down an icy hill on a sled to end the tour.

The staff, on board were exceptional, adding warmth to our already glowing experience, they were so accommodating, always up for a chat and never got annoyed at me showing them photos of our morning adventures.

I can't forget to mention the food! oh my, becasue we had upgraded we were treated to fine dining each and every day. Breakfast, lunch and dinner which. 3- course lunch paired with wines and dinner was 5-courses paired with wine. It was incredible. I was however, just craving a dirty pizza or spaghetti bolognase towards the end.

Chasing the Northern Lights

I wanted to share two time-lapse videos of the Northern Lights however, they are a bit big to post. The amazingness of watching it move and swirl was out of this world.

You don't often see the purples and blue tones with the naked eye, but you pick up all the unique colours with the camera shutter open longer (i.e., ten seconds on an iPhone). The two images here are a good comparison to what the shutter can do with the colours and to what we could see.

?The photos here are done on an iPhone and not with any slow shutter, so this is exactly how it looked to us viewing the lights and what we saw.

We did, though, on the last night, see all the colours as we were right up in the Arctic Circle cruising to Tromso. To see this over four nights was unreal, and each night got better and better.

The cruise before us (a week before) didn't see them because of the Siberian Storm and other bad weather. So we were so lucky to have had clear, beautiful skies. We jagged it big time!

We soon learnt to have our clothes by the bed and ready to put on warm jackets as the call-up can happen at all-night hours, and you need to be quick! Red wine in a YETI was also on hand and ready to go.

Fun fact for those interested - The northern lights appear when highly charged solar wind particles from the sun collide with air molecules in the earth's atmosphere, transferring their energy into light. This occurs around the Polar Regions where those magnetic fields converge (The North Pole).

Embracing Sami Culture

In L?dingen, we delved into Sami handicrafts, culture, and cuisine—a truly authentic experience. Despite the biting -17 degrees, we patted a pet reindeer and even ate smoked reindeer and drank reindeer broth. we bought home a reindeer hide floor rug and reindeer horns as a unique souvenir. Honestly, though, it was a bit weird playing with the reindeer and then eating one…… I'm not going to lie, I wasn't a huge fan as it is pretty gamey meat. Dallas on the other hand, loved it.

Our adventure continued in Alta with a visit to an igloo hotel complete with fancy rooms to stay in and beautifully craved ice sculptures. Quite incredible - it is re-built every single year.

We also got to drink Arctic Vodka out of ice-made shot glasses, it was warmly welcomed!

A minor hiccup occurred when we momentarily lost our way back to the ship, but it only added to the thrill of our journey. There is nothing quite like being lost in a -20-degree wonderland!

The Magic of Honningsv?g and Troms?

Honningsv?g greeted us next, a quaint town of 2,500 people. Though our planned ice fishing excursion was cancelled due to lack of interest (ARGH), we enjoyed simply wandering its charming, snowy streets.

Troms? marked the halfway point of our voyage. Here, we were super ecited to go on a dogsledding adventure in a winter wonderland, surrounded by amazing scenery and a comfortable -5 degrees. It was incredible, and home to 220 dogs and pups. Those who know me, know I am not a big fan of dogs (allergic) so Telfast was a must.

Unfortunately, a visit to the Northernmost Brewery fell through due to low interest (I know, right? What the.), but Troms?'s snow shower more than made up for it.

We also indulged in fantastic food,and I also found this awesome takeaway wine bar!

Stokmarknes and the Arctic Plunge

Docking in Stokmarknes, we braved a snowshoeing excursion in Vester?len. The initial daunting rainy, windy, and chilly weather turned in our favour, allowing us to experience a surreal landscape beside a frozen lake, with hues of blue and white under a dim, natural light.

A highlight was our Arctic plunge in Svolv?r—a thrilling first for me and a familiar joy for Dallas. The -4 outside was quickly forgotten with the help of wine and shots of Cognac. Dallas and I were quietly chilling in our room just relaxing, and we got a message from our new friends, Katie and Alex saying they had booked the sauna and plunge. We thought to ourselves (and for me, five red wines later), YOLO, let's do it! Dallas even jumped off a diving board! I have no regrets; it was the most fantastic experience with great new mates. I have a video of this but can't upload here.

Br?nn?ysund Adventures and Arctic Circle Crossing

In Br?nn?ysund, we started our day with a refreshing hike, the cool air a balm after our ice plunge antics and Dal's minor headache. The icy paths and roads tested our balance, but we triumphed, staying upright thanks to having ice grips on our shoes.

Deer sightings, and a hauntingly beautiful stone church added to the day's magic. We crossed the Arctic Circle again, heading south, each day a new adventure.

Southward Bound: Auctions and Viking Experiences

Cruising south, we immersed ourselves in the excitement of an onboard auction, acquiring unique memorabilia like the ship's plaque and a chart map. We thought they would go for heaps and the auction would be out of reach, but no one was bidding! I had my eye firmly on the plaque; what we paid was nothing compared to what we received. Fun fact – that night's auction was a record for the ship! Our bartender, Sondro, was super excited.

In Haugesund, we participated in a Viking Experience excursion, which, despite being our least favourite excursion (not to mention most expensive) and slightly comical, was a part of our unforgettable journey. I wont go into the details, as there is really not much to share!

The Beauty and Realities of Kristiansand and Oslo

Kristiansand welcomed us with a blanket of beautiful snow, a sight we had never seen before. After learning about a recent massive snowstorm, (something that hadn't happened in 20 years). We witnessed the bustling efforts of the town's clean-up.

Oslo presented a different scene, where the aftermath of snow resembled the aftereffects of a flood, a stark contrast to Kristiansand's fluffy white landscapes, then it dawned on us how lucky we were to get to see Kristiansand's beauty of pure white snow but realised they would end up with brown sludgy slush!

I've put together some hints and tips which are super beneficial if you are considering going!

Embrace Layering Over Bulk

People always say this, and you only really believe it if you do it. The key to surviving and enjoying the Norwegian cold is layering. My daily attire consisted of multiple thermals, a thin wool jumper Dale of Norway , a duck down jacket, and an overcoat Like a ski jacket or the one we got given to us with our room upgrade (I know, right). I layered woollen XTM Athletics tights, wool thermals, leggings, and jeans or snow pants for the legs. (waterproof thin pants would also work). The feet were cocooned in two pairs of XTM Heater socks from Anaconda Group Pty Ltd , a lifesaver in the cold. We bought the hot rocks for hands and feet and never even used them!

Footwear is Fundamental

Investing in good snowshoes is non-negotiable in a land where temperatures can plummet to -20 degrees. They must be fully waterproof and capable of withstanding the extreme cold. While we had hot rocks for hands and feet, they were never needed, thanks to our new shoes. Initially, we would not have bothered as you only really grasp how cold it will be once you are there. I had snowshoes already but upgraded, and it was the best decision ever.

Comfort on Board

On the MS Trollfjord, comfort is king. Ugg boots, simple walk-around boat shoes, and even thongs or slippers are a must - Dal didn't have any and had to put his hiking boots on every time he wanted to leave the room. I wish I had taken a pair of shorts (not just pyjamas), especially for those sauna moments or lounging around the room. I ended up wandering around in my PJ shorts! I would have also taken T-shirts. It can be cold at times on the boat, but you can adjust the temperatures in your room. I used my thermal pants and top to wander around the room.

Protect Your Face

A snood is essential for protecting your face and neck from wind and cold burns. (same as the fishing ones, and I have a tonne of those and did not take one!) Dallas, who wears glasses, often faced the issue of fogging up—an anti-fogging spray would have been handy. We improvised initially with DIY snoods from my tights, a creative solution that worked! Until we bought proper ones during the trip, I still reckon my tights idea was better as you could breathe through it quickly.

Skin and Hair Care

The dry cold can be harsh on the skin and hair. Regular moisturising with thick cream and Paw Paw gel for the lips is crucial. I was moisturising my face at least 3-4 times a day! This brand, Trilogy is from Chemist Warehouse and affordable. A moisture spray also comes in handy, I bought this Bioderma SOS Spray in Norway.

For hair, a conditioning spray or some good shampoo and conditiioner is advisable to combat dryness, my hair dried out so bad and the onboard shampoo and conditioner was not doing the job along with the recycled water. When I got home, I had to chop my hair as it had become quite brittle and was snapping!

Practical Accessories

• Ice grips for shoes
• Lanyard or some holder for the room card (I had a pocket on the back of my iPhone, but Dal always misplaced his card, LOL),
• Good camera setup is essential. Surprisingly, the iPhone 13 Pro Max proved to be an excellent device for capturing the Northern Lights and all our adventure snaps, especially with its night mode and three or 10-second shutter.
• A tripod and a camera grip for time-lapse photography is recommended for stability. I had my go pro and to be honest, the iPhone was a lot better. The gopro was great for our videos on our excursions.
• Binoculars and a speaker! Thankfully, my friend Krissy Breed lent me these before we left, and they came in handy! Mainly because we upgraded, we could sit and watch out our window and entertain our new friends with the speaker on hand.

Language and Transactions

Norwegian and English had enough similarities to make communication and readingfailry easy. Cash is unnecessary as most places are equipped for tap-and-go transactions. We did not get any Norwegian Kroner out; everywhere we used card. Also - NOTE: Things are expensive! especially alcohol. Luckily we had all our food and drinks included on the boat, but off the boat, sheesh! We also found that mostly everyone spoke English.

Travel Logistics

If you are going on a cruise, not all ports have car services or taxis—plan and book excursions well in advance to ensure you get all the benefits. We booked them all at one hit.

Be prepared for rapid weather changes and limited daylight hours. We only really had liked from 9.30am until around 1pm of light. We always did our activities in the morning which worked well. Keep the in-room announcements active on the Hurtigruten, especially for Northern Lights alerts (which can be any hour, like 2.30 am) and for excursion changes.

Maximising the Experience

Join rewards programs like Hurtigruten's 1893 Ambassador Club for excursion discounts, clothing discounts, etc. Also join the international airline club (if you can), and check your One World status, this was a big win for us. Qantas Frequent Flyers can boost the experience with benefits like international lounge access, seat upgrades at no cost, and priority boarding - I didn't realise this until I was looking to upgrade our seats. It went from $500 per person to $0. The international lounges were handy as we could shower and freshen up.

Also, pack a backpack with a few days' worth of clothes for long airport layovers. If you need to surrender your suitcase before disembarking on a cruise, if you go on one, I had three days' worth of stuff in my backpack when we got off the cruise, so I only had to open the full suitcase once we got home.

So to wrap up, as very quick brief run down, our 18-day adventure, with 12 days aboard the MS Trollfjord, was more than just a trip; it was a journey of discovery, seeing a beautiful part of the world and of our new life together as a married couple. From the beauty of the Northern Lights to the quaint charm of Norwegian towns, every moment was like something you see in a movie scene.

Norewegian fun fact - It it like Christmas every day with the beautiful lights everyone has on and in their homes. There are a number of reasons why Norwegian people leave lights in their windows. From general safety to long-held traditions, to helping alleviate a seasonal mental health condition as it is often just pure darkness.

We experienced different weather conditions in every place which gave us a real glimpse into the patterns, Norwegian life and what happens after the snow hits, it's not just pretty white snow, it has to go somewhere!

This trip was a reminder that the world is a whole of contrasts and wonders, and sometimes, the most incredible adventures lie in pursuing the opposite of what we know and what we are used to, memories will last forever as well as the friendships we forged. I can't wait for the next adventure, Looking at an Antartic Cruise with Hurtigruten Group .

I hope you enjoyed the read!

Ruth :-)