The Don Draper effect is no longer...
The lapel of a jacket is important. In years past it would be one of the key indicators pointing to current trends. As an example, a decade ago the small notch lapel was the thing. This timed well with the popularity of the show Mad Men, and what I’ll call the Don Draper effect.
In 2010 if you were wearing a jacket with some big ole, low hanging lapel, your coat was screaming out, “This jacket I’m wearing is old and out of date!”
As we enter summer of 2021, lapels screaming at you is no longer possible. Why? There is no “one standard” for much of anything as it relates to men’s fashion, not even in my niche, professional dress. Check out Tomford.com or Ralphlauren.com. You'll see what I'm referring to...big lapels, small lapels, notch lapels, peak lapels....
What I continue to love about where we are with clothing is the all bets are off reality. The trend, in my eyes, isn’t any one style. Rather, it is about you picking what is best for you. And doesn’t that seem to make the most sense anyway?
When it comes to picking a lapel that is right for you, here are some thoughts…
The Notch
The notch lapel will be the most understated. If you go with a width of say 3” or 3.25” you’ll be in the middle of the fairway. If you go smaller it feels more sporty and youthful, and if you go larger it feels more sturdy and severe, which might be a great match for certain rich fabrics or personalities.
The Peak
The peak lapel has its roots in formal dress. The point says something, as it’s the lapel that wants your attention. If you’re going to give it a go I’d recommend a more formal suit or jacket, blending well with it’s more formal, commanding nature, or on the opposite side of the spectrum, try it on something fun! Why not a linen jacket for summer with white buttons and patch pockets! I recently tried it on a new, tropical weight Holland and Sherry 4-ply worsted wool, and I'm loving it.
In summary, don't be tricked into thinking there's a certain lapel style or size that's best. The only thing that makes it "best" is if it works well for you. Are you looking to play it safe? Are you looking to make 2021 something new and special? The lapel will help you in either case.
Tom James Company ~ Personal Clothier ~ Luxury Investment Apparel ~ Bespoke Wardrobe Lifestyle Consulting/Solutions
3 年Thanks Tim! We'd like to teach the world to sing in sartorial harmony..... Tom James... it's the real thing!
Doctor of Clothesology
3 年The width that has historically been considered the most flattering is one which falls in the “trough”, approximately half way between the inner line formed by the lapel and shirt, and the shoulder/armhole seam. One may choose, for fashion purposes, to vary from that, but in seeking the most flattering width for ones build, that is the starting point. It always looks “right”, even if not au courant. The matters of shaper and gorge line vary with fashion, or function of the garment, a peak being considered a dressier lapel than a notch, as it is related to one classic style of DJ.
Business Development Leader
3 年I have a number of clients who have decided “peak” or “Italian wides” are their signature style. As you rightly say Tim Cornell - personal preference and what’s best for you reigns supreme.
I’m with Tim on this one. Good wisdom here on picking lapel size for new clothes this year and probably for the foreseeable.