Distant Dreams and the War Within

In 2015, as an 18-year-old boy killing time on the Delhi Metro between Hauz Khas and Laxmi Nagar, I stumbled upon a pirated Rs. 100 copy of Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air. The harrowing account of the 1996 Everest tragedy planted a seed—one that grew into an obsession with the mountain. Over the years, from Delhi to Mumbai to Bangalore, my fascination deepened through documentaries and endless Reddit threads.

By October 2024, I was a chartered accountant in Bangalore when an ad for the Everest Base Camp trek caught my eye. It felt like fate—an invitation to stand in the shadow of the giant I’d dreamed of for nearly a decade.

Phase 1: Doubt - Preparation and Setback

When I booked the EBC trek in October, I was in peak shape—daily gym sessions, a protein-rich diet, and a healthy routine. Then tragedy struck: pneumonia and dengue hit me simultaneously. Four days in the hospital left me physically drained, and by the time I could train again, only ten days remained. Headaches and breathlessness confined me to slow 5 km walks, and I debated canceling the trek. But the years spent dreaming of Everest pushed me forward.

We arrived in Kathmandu four days early, exploring the vibrant Thamel market and renting gear. A day before the trek, we met our group of 20 fellow trekkers and four Sherpas. Day 1 began with a flight to Lukla—often called the most dangerous yet breathtaking airport in the world. As we descended, snow-capped peaks pierced through the clouds, a heavenly gateway. Thankfully, we landed safely, ready to begin the journey.

Phase 2: Agony - Pain in Paradise

By day two, it became clear—reaching Everest Base Camp would be an uphill battle, literally and figuratively. My body wasn’t ready. By the time we reached Namche Bazaar, my head throbbed, my neck ached, and my trekking shoes gave out. Thankfully, I managed to find a replacement, even in the off-season.

The days were grueling: 10-hour treks through biting cold, aching muscles, and relentless climbs. Over the next four days, we trudged 10–15 km daily, catching glimpses of Everest and the stunning Ama Dablam in the distance. Cozy tea houses at our checkpoints offered warmth, comfort, and brief respite. Finally, we reached the halfway point—Dingboche.

Phase 3: Resilience - Turning on the Afterburners

Arriving in Dingboche, we were greeted by a fresh snowfall and discovered Café 4410—a cozy French café perched at 4410 meters, one of the highest in the world. It offered the warmest respite and the best hot chocolate with rum. After a week of monotonous dal bhat, the gourmet meal, though expensive, revitalized me for the challenges ahead.

Leaving Dingboche, we passed the climbers' memorial, including tributes to Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, central figures in Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. Though I’d never met them, years of documentaries and reading made their memorial feel personal. With a heavy heart, we pressed on to Lobuche.

Phase 4: Triumph - Against All Odds

As we ascended, temperatures plummeted to -40°C. The tea houses became unbearably cold, and sleep eluded us. We learned that two trekkers had died of cardiac arrest, and one from our group was evacuated due to oxygen deprivation. But with just one day left before reaching our goal, anxiety and excitement mixed. Despite everything, we managed to sleep.

At 3:30 AM, we began our final push toward Everest. By 9 AM, we stopped at Gorakhshep for our last tea break before Base Camp. Then, the familiar pain in my neck returned. After leaving Gorakhshep, it intensified with every step, made worse by the slippery Khumbu Glacier. For the first time, I took a painkiller.

Step by step, I kept moving. My Sherpa pointed ahead—Base Camp was within reach. As I neared, the pain seemed to fade, whether from adrenaline, the painkiller, or both. By the time I reached Base Camp, there was no pain left. I hadn’t summited Everest, but the joy of reaching this destination felt just as immense. Despite all the doubts, I made it—and no one could take that away.

Phase 5: Celebration

As the rest of the group arrived, we fist-bumped, congratulated each other, and posed for photos. I dropped to one knee and proposed to my girlfriend—a moment I’d pre-planned, the spark that kept me going. A special memory in a special place.

After celebrating at Base Camp, we descended in just three days. The pain miraculously vanished, and I could finally enjoy the journey. In Namche Bazaar, the lively heart of Sagarmatha National Park, we reveled in 24/7 pubs and pizzerias. I had my fair share of Khukri Rum, and we celebrated late into the night.

A Farewell to Everest... for now

As we prepared to leave Lukla for Kathmandu, I couldn’t help but glance back at Everest, knowing this wasn’t the end of our story. The mountain had become a part of me, etched into my journey and my soul. I’m certain I’ll return.

And when I do, it won’t just be to stand at Base Camp again, but to continue climbing—not just the heights of Everest, but the mountains within. For some journeys never truly end; they simply become a part of who we are.

The Route Breakdown

Our journey can be mapped as follows:

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2: Lukla to Phakding (12.36km)

Day 3: Phakding to Namche Bazar (12.81km)

Day 4: Namche acclimatization trek (7.49km)

Day 5: Namche to Dobuche (14.92km)

Day 6: Dobuche to Dingboche (11.78km)

Day 7: Dingboche acclimatization (5.69km)

Day 8: Dingboche to Lobuche (10.34km)

Day 9: Lobuche to Gorakshep to EBC (13.19km)

Day 10: Gorakshep to Pangboche (25.07km)

Day 11: Pangboche to Namche (21.68km)

Day 12: Namche to Lukla (23.35km)