Discussing The “Dupe” Trend: A Guide to Reverse Engineering in Cosmetic Formulation

In recent years, we’ve seen a surge in the “dupe” trend—affordable alternatives to high-end beauty products that promise similar performance, texture, and effects at a fraction of the cost. Consumers love dupes for their accessibility, while brands have capitalized on the demand by creating near-identical versions of luxury products.

But behind the viral videos and side-by-side swatches lies an intricate scientific process: Reverse Engineering.

For cosmetic chemists, reverse engineering isn’t just about making a product look and feel the same—it’s about understanding ingredient functionality, formulation interactions, and regulatory compliance to recreate an effective alternative.

In this newsletter, we’ll explore:

• Why dupe formulations are trending
• The concerns and challenges of creating them
• How reverse engineering works in cosmetic science
• Key steps to analyzing and recreating a formulation

Let’s break it down.

Why Are Dupes So Popular?

The rise of dupe formulations is largely driven by social media, consumer demand, and price sensitivity. Viral TikTok and Instagram comparisons have made affordable beauty alternatives more sought after than ever. But why?

1. Cost Savings

Luxury brands often mark up products due to brand reputation, exclusive packaging, and marketing costs rather than raw material expenses. Consumers want similar formulations at a lower price.

2. Discontinuation of Favorite Products

When brands discontinue cult-favorite products, dupe brands fill the gap. Companies like Sephora Collection, e.l.f. Cosmetics, and Revolution Beauty are known for creating similar versions of high-end favorites.

3. Ethical & Ingredient Preferences

Some consumers seek dupes due to ingredient transparency, vegan formulas, or cleaner alternatives that align with their values.

4. Performance Matching & Accessibility

Dupes make high-performance formulas available to a broader audience, ensuring that premium textures and finishes aren’t exclusive to luxury brands.

The Challenges & Ethical Concerns of Dupes

While dupe formulation is common, it comes with challenges:

1. Legal & Intellectual Property Issues

• Brands can copyright packaging and branding, but not formulas. However, certain trade secrets and patented technologies make direct duplication impossible.
• Dupes must carefully navigate around patents, especially for unique delivery systems, stabilized actives, or emulsification techniques (FDA Title 21, 2022).

2. Ingredient Limitations

• Some brands use proprietary or exclusive raw materials that cannot be directly copied.
• Stability and efficacy may differ based on source, processing, and encapsulation methods (Loden, 2005).

3. Performance Variability

• Even if ingredients match, differences in particle size, emulsification, and preservation systems can alter sensory feel, absorption, and efficacy (Proksch, 2008).

Despite these challenges, reverse engineering remains a key skill for cosmetic chemists who need to analyze and recreate formulas based on functionality rather than just ingredient lists.

Reverse Engineering a Cosmetic Formulation

Reverse engineering is the scientific approach to recreating an existing product, starting with analyzing composition and progressing to experimentation and refinement.

Step 1: Initial Product Analysis

Visual & Sensory Evaluation – Observe color, viscosity, spreadability, and feel. Compare side-by-side with the reference formula. Ingredient List Breakdown (INCI Analysis) – Identify key emulsifiers, active ingredients, film formers, and preservatives. Remember: INCI lists do not reveal exact concentrations. Understanding Functionality – Categorize ingredients into humectants, emollients, occlusives, surfactants, thickeners, and stabilizers (Rawlings & Harding, 2004).

Step 2: Lab Testing & Quantitative Analysis

pH Measurement – Determines compatibility and stability of the formulation. Microscopic & Spectroscopic Analysis – Techniques like Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy or Chromatography help identify unknown components (Draelos, 2012). Emulsion Type Test (Water-in-Oil vs. Oil-in-Water) – Helps recreate the right emulsion system.

Step 3: Ingredient Sourcing & Replacement

Finding Comparable Raw Materials – Some materials are brand-exclusive, requiring alternatives with similar molecular weight, solubility, and stability (Proksch, 2008). Preservative System Matching – Ensuring microbiological safety while maintaining formula integrity.

Step 4: Prototyping & Performance Matching

Texture & Stability Adjustments – Refining viscosity, slip, and sensory feel. Consumer Perception Testing – Matching application experience (e.g., fast absorption, lightweight feel). Long-Term Stability & Compatibility Testing – Evaluating freeze-thaw cycles, centrifuge stability, and oxidative degradation.

Reverse engineering isn’t just about copying—it’s about understanding why a formula works and optimizing it for performance, safety, and compliance.

Brands Leading the Dupe Trend

Several brands have built a reputation for delivering quality dupes:

• E.L.F. BEAUTY – Known for affordable versions of high-end products (e.g., their Halo Glow Liquid Filter vs. Charlotte Tilbury’s Hollywood Flawless Filter).
• The Inkey List & The Ordinary – Offer high-performance, single-ingredient-driven formulations at accessible price points.

These brands highlight the scientific and commercial success of reverse engineering, proving that well-executed dupes can thrive alongside luxury counterparts.

Why This Matters for Cosmetic Chemists

Reverse engineering isn’t just about following trends—it’s about understanding product development at a fundamental level.

For R&D professionals, mastering reverse engineering is a powerful skill—not just for creating dupes but for innovating, improving, and reformulating products in response to market demands.

References:

1. FDA. “CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21.” July 20, 2022.
2. Loden M. “The clinical benefit of moisturizers.” Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2005;19(6):672-88.
3. Proksch E. “The role of emollients in the management of dry skin conditions.” Skin Pharmacology and Physiology. 2008;21(5):227-232.
4. Rawlings AV, Harding CR. “Moisturization and skin barrier function.” Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17:43-48.
5. Draelos ZD. “Moisturizers: The science of addressing dry skin.” Cosmetic Dermatology. 2012.
6. Barel AO, Paye M, Maibach HI. “Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology.” 4th ed. CRC Press; 2014.
7. Kamath YK, Ruetsch SB. “Hair Conditioning Agents.” Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2010;61(3):255-265.
8. Robbins CR. “Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair.” Springer; 2012.
9. Ahn KJ, Kim BK. “Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications.” Elsevier; 2016.

Innovation starts with understanding. Whether you're replicating, reformulating, or creating something entirely new—knowledge is the foundation of great cosmetic science.