The Disappearance of Kathmandu's Iconic Momo Joints

The Disappearance of Kathmandu's Iconic Momo Joints: A Nostalgic Look at Ason, Indra Chowk, and Kamalakchi

During my research, I had the privilege of speaking with Bikram Vidhya, the founder of "Tom & Jerry Bar," the only business from Nepal mentioned in The New York Times. A true city boy, Bikram was born and raised in the neighborhoods where the most iconic momo joints of Kathmandu once thrived. With a deep connection to the area, Bikram personally guided me through the winding streets of Ason, Indra Chowk, and Kamalakchi, pointing out the spots where these beloved momo shops had stood for generations.

Alongside him was Mr. Rajesh Ghimire, a journalist and an even more passionate foodie. Rajesh knew every "bhatti" (local tavern) and eatery in the city like the back of his hand. He spoke about each local food joint with reverence, painting vivid pictures of a time when these places were alive with the scent of fresh momo, bustling with the chatter of locals, and filled with the warmth of Newar hospitality. These momo shops, once run as family businesses by the Newar community, had been nurtured by generations who had devoted their lives to perfecting their craft. Each momo had a story, a history, and a taste that captured the heart of Kathmandu.

Sadly, many of these joints are now just memories, their spaces taken over by new businesses, their owners retired or moved on. Yet, the spirit of those momos still lingers in the air of these ancient streets, a reminder of a simpler time when a plate of hot momo could bring joy to anyone who walked by.

The Rise and Fall of Kathmandu’s Old Momo Joints

Momos, Nepal's beloved dumpling, have long been a staple in the Kathmandu Valley. Back in the day, the narrow alleys of Ason, Indra Chowk, and Kamalakchi were the epicenters of momo culture. People from all over the city would come to these bustling neighborhoods to enjoy a plate of freshly steamed buffalo momos, known locally as "Rango Momos." These were simple, unpretentious dumplings served with a spicy jhol achar, a tangy broth that added a kick to the meal.

These iconic eateries were owned and operated by the Newar community, the indigenous people of the Kathmandu Valley. For them, these momo joints were more than just businesses; they were extensions of their homes, symbols of their culinary heritage, and a testament to their entrepreneurial spirit. These shops were handed down from one generation to the next, each adding its unique flair to the traditional momo recipe.

However, as times changed, many of these beloved eateries began to disappear. Why did these pioneers of Nepal's momo culture find it so hard to survive in the very city they helped shape? A closer look reveals a mix of economic, social, and cultural factors that led to the decline of these historic momo joints.

The High Cost of Rent

One of the most significant reasons behind the disappearance of these old momo joints is the soaring cost of rent in the city center. Over the years, property values in Ason, Indra Chowk, and Kamalakchi have skyrocketed. For many momo shop owners, continuing to run a small, traditional eatery in these areas became economically unsustainable. Larger brands and businesses, drawn to the prime locations, were willing to pay much higher rents. They came in with big budgets, ready to renovate these historical spaces and turn them into modern establishments, such as restaurants, cafes, and retail stores.

For the Newar families who owned these properties, renting them out became a more attractive option than continuing to run their momo shops. The lure of stable rental income without the hassle of daily operations was hard to resist, especially given the increasing competition and challenges of maintaining a small business in a rapidly changing market.

Generational Shift in Ambitions

Another significant factor was the shift in ambitions between generations. The original momo shop owners, mostly from the Newar community, were dedicated to their craft, pouring their lives into running these eateries. However, their children often had different dreams. As education became more accessible and aspirations changed, many younger members of these families sought careers in fields like medicine, engineering, and finance. They were encouraged by their parents to pursue these opportunities, hoping for a more prosperous and stable future for their children.

Parents, too, hoped for a brighter future for their children. Many sent them abroad to study in countries like the United States, Australia, and the United Kingdom. As a result, fewer young people were interested in taking over the family business, leaving the older generation with no choice but to close their momo shops.

A Crowded Market

The proliferation of momo shops across Kathmandu has also played a major role in the decline of city-center momo joints. Today, momos can be found on nearly every street corner, with Kathmandu boasting one of the densest concentrations of momo eateries in the world. It is said that, on average, there is a momo joint every 300 meters in the metropolitan area.

With so many options available, customers no longer needed to travel to the old momo joints in the city center. New eateries in suburban areas, where rents are lower and ingredients are cheaper, began to attract more customers. These new establishments could offer momo at more affordable prices, making it difficult for the traditional city-center joints to compete. The unique flavors and authenticity of the older joints were no longer enough to draw in crowds as they once did.

Modern Competition and Marketing Tactics

The arrival of new momo eateries with modern marketing strategies also played a crucial role. While the original momo shops relied on word of mouth and their long-standing reputation, the newcomers entered the market with branding, logos, marketing budgets, and eye-catching signage. They also offered a wider variety of momo flavors — chicken, goat, vegetarian, and even vegan — appealing to a broader audience.

The older momo joints, run as family businesses by the Newar community, remained largely unchanged. They continued to serve the same classic buffalo momo that had made them famous. However, their inability to adapt to modern marketing tactics and changing consumer preferences left them at a disadvantage. As newer momo eateries expanded their offerings and promoted themselves more effectively, the older joints struggled to keep up.

Changing Food Preferences

Food preferences in Kathmandu have evolved significantly over the years. While traditional buffalo momos still have their fans, many customers now prefer chicken, vegetarian, or vegan options. New momo shops have embraced these trends, offering a wider range of choices to cater to diverse tastes and dietary preferences.

The old momo joints, on the other hand, remained steadfast in their commitment to serving the classic buffalo momo. Unfortunately, this focus on a single product limited their appeal in a market that was rapidly evolving to meet new consumer demands.

A Glimpse into the Past

Walking through the streets of Ason, Indra Chowk, and Kamalakchi with Bikram Vidhya and Rajesh Ghimire was a journey back in time. Their stories were filled with nostalgia for a period when these momo joints were the beating heart of Kathmandu’s food culture, where every momo told a story, every shop had a legacy, and every plate carried the flavor of home.

While many of these joints are now gone, their essence remains a part of the city's soul, a whisper of a time when the simple pleasure of a plate of momo could light up anyone’s day. The old momo shops may no longer be in operation, but their legacy endures in the hearts of those who remember them.

My long story in short, Preserving the Legacy

The closure of these old momo joints marks the end of an era but also reflects Kathmandu's dynamic and ever-evolving food culture. While the city has lost some of its most iconic momo spots, it has also gained new flavors, new traditions, and a diverse culinary landscape.

There remains hope that one day, the descendants of these original momo sellers from the Newar community might choose to revive their family businesses, blending traditional flavors with modern tastes. Until then, the story of Kathmandu's iconic momo joints remains a cherished chapter in the city's rich culinary history, one that deserves to be remembered and celebrated.