Dermocosmetics market trends in the Middle East

Krasimir Velev, Area Manager for Asia and Eastern Europe at Asacpharma, brings us the latest news from the dermocosmetics sector in the Middle East. Following his recent trip to the United Arab Emirates to attend the Dubai Derma conference and meeting some of the Atache's distributors, we count on his experienced insight into trends in this market.

Krasimir, we know that the territory of the Arabian Nights arouses great interest among Spanish cosmetics export companies, how many years ago did Atache begin its presence in the Middle East?

It's been more than 20 years now... The first country was precisely the Emirate of Dubai, from where I have just landed. There, we learned a lot about how to embarking on the region. At that time, we started with 2 products from our Despigmen and Despigmen Plus depigmenting line that soon became an unprecedented success. Still dermatologists and pharmacists in the region ask us about them. The renewed products of this Despigmen P3 line have been the center of attention in our recent presence at Dubai Derma 2022.

Despigmen P3 is a depigmenting treatment that whitens, homogenizes and protects the skin with a mattifying effect. Its innovative formula combines depigmenting and antioxidant active ingredients with the regenerating and photoprotective power of Polypodium Leucotomos. Skin blemishes are reduced and face is hydrated.

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Did you encounter many barriers at the beginning?

Actually, not many… In many aspects, people’s skin in this region is similar to the Mediterranean one. Also, when you bring quality products supported by manufacturing standards such as Good Manufacturing Practices or ISO standards, and you have correctly done your homework performing efficacy and safety studies, you are welcome anywhere in the world.

How much has Atache grown in the region in all these years?

There are now 8 countries and they represent a 20 % share of Atache's international sales.

Today, countries such as Saudi Arabia, Iran or the UAE are in the top 10 non-EU destinations for beauty products, according to data from ICEX (the Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade) and Stanpa (the Spanish Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Association). For Atache, having this expertise and know-how in the area makes it easier for us to grow in these countries. The forecast compound annual growth rate for the region from now to 2027 is 3.1 %.

Are Atache products adapted to the Arab market?

Yes, almost all of them. In the Gulf, brand and advertising management has been essential. This has created a focus on packaging, the use of quality ingredients and a strong emphasis on dermatological testing. Our customers are looking for high quality and are much more health-conscious than before, when price was important.

What are the main needs of Arab consumers in cosmetics?

Many of our beauty rituals have been passed down from generation to generation. But it is our ancestors in the Middle East who we must thank for the advice and products that have shaped cosmetics as we know it today.

Cleopatra must be one of the first women to popularize the iconic image of smoky eyes. Just like today, the ancient Egyptians combined eyeliner, mascara and shadows to create a dark effect, the same one that is now explained step by step in thousands of YouTube tutorials.

Arab women (and increasingly men too) are very concerned about their beauty and attach great importance to skin care. Their skin is strong, resistant and oily, due to their race and the environmental conditions of the area.

Cosmetic treatments to cleanse the epidermis in depth, products to treat the special needs of both facial and body depigmentation are the most appreciated by Middle Eastern women, because they manage to solve the problems related to skin blemishes that are so common.

They are followed by exfoliating treatments, treatments for oily skin and firming body treatments. In this last field they look for effective treatments to combat cellulite.

Our renewed Despigmen P3 line has been very well received at Dubai Derma. We are very hopeful.

What market trends are being observed in the region in recent years?

The trends that work really well in Asia and the Middle East and reach the West more and more are the Optimized Beauty (concentrated super ingredients), Well-being after suffering from the pandemic, Age Resilience, Time of disruptive change, Trend of Alpha&Omega (from one end to the other). Promotion of luxury, heritage, history of countries. But at the same time, simple routines and cleaner and simpler formulas. As for the fastest growing products in the last year were the ones aimed to Professionals and the Premium ones. The two categories above 20 %.

What new Atache products do you think will be well received in these markets?

I feel confident that Excellence's professional treatment will be greatly appreciated by dermatologists and aesthetic professionals in these countries. It is a 5-session program to be carried out in the cabin, based on a global anti-aging concept and with a careful formulation of more than 20 active ingredients.

Its ingredients help to prolong the youth of the skin, delaying cellular senescence. It manages to delay the signs of the fibroblast degeneration process, slows down the spread of aged cells and minimizes the damage they cause.

Will we be able to see Atache products on the pharmacy shelves of any new country in the area?

In 2021 Atache products appeared in pharmacies in Iraq and Qatar. Our plans for 2022 are to be able to close the cycle and be present in all the countries of the region without exceptions. We are moving in the right direction.