Deosai Plains: The Land Of Giants
Living in the boredom of lock down, I came to recall 'my Bear Grills experience' at Deosai National Park, the world's second highest plateaus. That journey had its own charm and hardships. Beware of climate, bumpy track and bears- which to be honest we saw none- but there are many.
Maybe it was due to shear luck that despite being told that park won't be accessible at this moment (it was June mid), as the plains would be covered in heavy snow. However, we had it in our bucket-list, how could we have missed it. We took our chances and left Ramaa Valley where we were offered the hospitality of our wonderful friend Rashid Ali. The road to Astore valley is a smooth ride compared to what we were about to experience in Deosai Plains.
The path was full of rocks, flooded with cold icy water, since the time we entered the plains it had just been opened to the public. After having a few chit chats with our armed forces, we were allowed to pass. The chat was to first dissuade us from continuing the journey ahead, and when they saw how resilient and stubborn we were, we finally were let go. No body is allowed residence, even a temporary in the park, but only through proper channels that is to seek permission from the concerned ministry.
Me and my cousin were on a Honda bike, but soon it became clear to us that she won't bear the weight of both of us. So yeah being the big brother and he being a light-hearted, I had to walk most of the track. The park has 3 tiered rates; locals, Pakistani nationals and foreigners. Being non-GB residents we had to pay hundred rupee each to get through. And, yeah thats it. There is no escort or rescue available, but in peak season. Once in, we are on our own. The species found there are bears, Ibex, Snow leopards, Markhors etc. However, these are the marmots that keep on instilling your attention with their shrill voice and sudden appearance from their caves.
Our first encounter with them was relatively of awe, but with our never ending journey as their numbers soared, so our interest faded. Despite that we made sure that we were able to capture each one of them into our camera. Sheosar lake was the first spot, that one could witness in making a half hour drive while entering the plains. The lake was yet in its frozen state, and had a considerable size and volume. The accounts of those who visit this lake in July are that, its all three sides which now were covered in snow become a feast for the eye, with its multiple shades of flora.
Making our way ahead towards Skardu city and deep into Deosai plains, we came across two young Gilgitis, who were crossing the plains with an oxen to be sold on the other end i.e Astore valley. We had a little encounter with them, asked of as to how much of the journey was ahead of us? They young lads had a certain white ingredient applied to their faces to save of the sun burns. This did prove one thing to us, that even you live in mountains you could still have sun burns. The track ahead of us became rather more difficult as it was being flooded by water. Thus we decided to split our ways.
I took a displacement from my position to the bridge, and my cousin sticked to the track with bike. It was not only half an hour passed that I came to know a lesson for life; not to deviate of the well placed track in search of new path. The bridge was almost 2 miles away from me, and I came across huge puddles of water across my path with soft land and dark brown grass that was buried deep under the ice now exposed. Since I saw none around me it became almost a frightening sight for me, the sounds of marmots further added to my horror. So an estimated one hour displacement took me 2 hours, a frightened cousin at the other end, and my conquering spirits to really make to the destined point. This is where, standing at the top of a big stone, I had the lessons of Bear Grylls to harness my spirits. Allah o Akber, and off I go. The thing that still fascinates me today is the little pond of water, which soon shall evaporate, had fishes in it. How did they came there? Or did they too lay buried in ice?
Anyhow, I came to the bridge to cross the "Kala Pani" river. Known so because of the black water of this river. At other end of the plains we came across 2 young people from Skardu, same age as ours, who came there in search of some wild pleasant smelling flowers. And we were shocked to know that they never made across the plains. Yet here we were travelling all the way from Sialkot to Sakrdu. To see a thing of beauty, the passions matter. Some are deprived of it even if it lives next to their homeland, and some could even make it all across to witness the spectacle.
Bon Voyage to my fellow travelers.