Denim 101: The Fascinating Story Behind Your Favorite Jeans

Unlike any other type of clothing, denim is recognized to redefine the fashion industry. Since their days as rugged twill trousers worn by merchant sailors, denim has come a long way to become a wardrobe mainstay.

History

The term "Genoese" or "genes" was first used to describe the strong twill pants worn by merchant sailors from Genoa, an Italian port city, in 1567, giving rise to the lengthy history of jeans. French weavers in Nimes attempted to replicate this fabric.?

This cloth was identified as a twill weave because it had a weft that crossed beneath the warp threads and a warp that was primarily dyed blue. It had a distinct vibe and fit the working-class demographic perfectly. The term "denim" we use today is derived from the French expression "serge de Nimes," which means "serge from Nimes." Denim originally had a working-class connotation and was only later adopted as a fashion accessory.

To serve those interested in the "gold rush," Levi Strauss relocated to San Francisco in 1853 and opened a dry goods company. Jacob W. Davis, a tailor who created useful products like tents, horse blankets, and wagon covers, invited Strauss to work with him to patent and market garments reinforced with rivets when dealing with imported cotton denim. They needed Levi's fabric because it was essential to them, and Strauss had found a way to make it more durable by employing metal rivets.

They partnered together, and on May 20, 1873, the United States Patent and Trademark Office granted the U.S. Patent 139,121. The revised style of the jeans, which fixed the issue of the shredded pockets, was well-liked by the miners. Prior to the development of the denim 501 designs in 1890, which opened the door for a more contemporary version, Strauss and Davis initially produced jeans in two types of fabric: brown duck and blue denim.?

Belt loops first appeared in 1922, and the button fly was replaced by a zipper. But by 1890, this collaboration had broken down, and companies like OshKosh B'Gosh, Wrangler, and Lee Mercantile came into the picture.

This partnership led to the creation of the first denim jeans and the brand Levi's. Since then, jeans have evolved and have undergone many changes, becoming a fashion statement and a wardrobe staple. Today, denim remains one of the most versatile, durable, and highly sought-after fabrics on the market.

Fun Fact – first-ever denim wasn’t blue. It was brown.

How Denim is made

The making of denim is a multi-step process that requires precision and attention to detail. First, the cotton is harvested and spun into yarn. This yarn is then dyed in indigo to give denim its signature blue color. The yarn is then woven into fabric using a twill weave, which creates diagonal ridges on the surface of the fabric.

After the fabric is woven, it goes through several finishing processes to achieve the desired look and feel. The fabric can be washed and treated to create a softer hand, faded look, or vintage appearance. Some denim fabrics are also treated with special dyes or chemicals to create different color options, such as black, gray, or white denim.

The Process

Blue Lab in collaboration with Candiani SpA , has created a wonderful educational video series that explains the denim production process in detail. This series covers every aspect of denim production, from cotton to finished fabric, and is a valuable resource for anyone interested in sustainable and ethical denim production.

1. Cotton to Sliver.

In the production of denim fabric, the first step is transforming raw cotton into a form that can be spun into yarn. This process is called cotton to sliver. The cotton is first cleaned, carded, and combed to remove any impurities and align the fibers. The resulting mass of fibers is then drawn through a series of rollers to create a long, narrow strand of cotton called sliver.

2. Sliver to Yarn.

After the cotton has been processed into sliver, the next step in denim fabric production is transforming the sliver into yarn. The sliver is fed through a machine called a spinner, which twists the fibers together to form a continuous strand of yarn. This process is called sliver to yarn.

3. Dyeing the Warp.

"Dyeing the warp" is the process of coloring the lengthwise yarns that form the foundation of the denim fabric with indigo dye. The yarns are submerged into a vat of dye and allowed to soak for a specific amount of time before being dried and wound onto a loom for weaving.

4. Weaving.

Weaving is the process of interlacing the dyed warp yarns with undyed or colored weft yarns to create the characteristic diagonal pattern of denim fabric. This is done using a loom, where the warp yarns are held taut and the weft yarns are woven over and under them. The tightly woven fabric is then sent for finishing.

5. Fabric Finishing.

Fabric finishing is the final stage of denim fabric production, which involves a series of processes to give the fabric its desired properties, texture, and appearance. It includes processes such as washing, brushing, sanding, or distressing the fabric to achieve a specific look or feel. Finishing can also include the application of softeners, resins, or coatings to improve the fabric's durability, shrinkage resistance, or water resistance. The finished denim fabric is then ready to be cut and sewn into garments once the garment manufacturer completes its internal quality process.

In addition to traditional denim, new advancements in fabric technology have led to the creation of stretch denim and other performance fabrics. These fabrics not only look great but also provide comfort and flexibility, making them a popular choice for activewear and athleisure.

Despite its long history, denim continues to evolve and remains a staple in the fashion world. Whether it's a classic pair of jeans or a modern twist on a denim jacket, this versatile fabric continues to captivate and inspire.

In conclusion, denim is a timeless fabric that has stood the test of time, constantly evolving and adapting to meet the changing needs of consumers. From its humble beginnings as a sturdy workwear fabric to its current status as a fashion staple, denim is here to stay.