DAN'S WINE BLOG- A GRAPE BY ANY OTHER NAME.....

Friday, July 05, 2019

This week we are looking at some potential changes in grape growing that are occurring in other parts of the world.

In what can only be described as, “World shattering news!”: It was recently revealed that the French government has allowed the appellations of Bordeaux and Bordeaux Superior, to use “non-permitted” varieties in their wines as from 2021, in order to combat climate change. Of course as with everything vinous in France, there are strict rules, for instance they can’t use “signature varieties” from other regions e.g. Chardonnay which is Burgundy’s signature white variety. Additionally, the “new” varieties when planted cannot constitute more than 5% of the grower’s vineyard – I could quite imagine growers being burned at the stake or being carted off to jail if they planted 6% or 7% of their vineyard with these new “interloper” varieties! Furthermore, the maximum total amount of all of these “new” varieties allowed in their wine is only 10%. Which makes one wonder “at a mere 10% of the wine, how is this really managing climate change?”

At present the varieties being “considered for approval” are the: French Petit Manseng and the Spanish Albarino in the whites, and in the reds, the French Marselan (French cross of Cabernet and Grenache) which the Chinese are enamoured with, Touriga Nacional and Vinaho from Portugal, as well as Castets (an obscure Southern French variety) and the hard to say (or find) Arinarnoa (a Bordeaux created cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat). Now there is a variety that should, like Marselan have global potential. Maybe some of the more experimentacious of Aussie winemakers should have a look at these two varieties because they should thrive in our warmer climate, and at least Marselan has been proven to make really good wine.

I can’t wait to try these radical new French wines after 2021!!!

PICARDAN: Is an almost extinct Rh?ne white variety, with only one to two hectares planted worldwide until recently. It is now rapidly gaining favour with American grapegrowers as a substitute/replacement for Chardonnay.

Even though it is one of the thirteen “certified” varieties permitted in Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the Rh?ne, Picardan was expected to become extinct until recently when wineries in Texas, California and Oregon started to plant it. Today, there are some seven hectares of the variety planted in the USA – where growers are excited by its taste and also its novelty in a world constantly looking for new experiences.

California’s, Tablas Creek Vineyard, first imported the variety into the USA as part of a project to grow all thirteen Chateauneuf-du-Pape allowed varieties and got so excited by their early trials that they just produced a varietal wine from Picardan. www.tablascreek.com

Apart from having plenty of flavour, Picardan is noted for its ability to survive extreme heat – SO, maybe Aussie grapegrowers in the warmer climates should investigate this “survivor” variety?

Hey maybe, just maybe, the Bordelaise should consider it as one of their new “to be allowed” varieties instead of interlopers like the Spanish Albarino, so as to maintain their “Frenchness” – Sacré bleu!!!

While we wait (don’t hold your breath) for these game changing wines to appear, please enjoy some great Aussie wines made from emerging varieties such as Grüner Veltliner, Vermentino, Albarino, Tannat, Saperavi, Durif, and one of my favourites, Cabernet Franc. Cheers!